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Old 02-20-2014, 11:26 AM   #1
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1973 25' Tradewind
Beautiful , Oregon
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Securing Water Heater properly to trailer

HI Folks,

Water Heater Installation. I have searched, surprisingly unsuccessfully, to see how a replacement Atwood water heater is installed to the trailer. I have a 1973 Tradewind.

What I have learned is that they need to be tilted up from the back to account for the curvature of the body. I would love to see how folks did this .

I see those triangle deals provided with the heater but donít get how they are used I am not jelling with the instructions it seams.

I just donít get how the heater is attached and secured to the trailer,

If anyone has picture of their installation and could post them I would be very grateful.

Thank You

Tony
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Old 02-20-2014, 01:12 PM   #2
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Fastening water heater

Hi Tony,
The water heater is secured to the outer skin/rib with screws. You may need to make some additional supports for the skin from some bent aluminum.
https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/phot...eat=directlink

I made a little wedge shaped bottom support from marine grade plywood.
https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/phot...eat=directlink
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Old 02-20-2014, 01:20 PM   #3
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There are holes in the flange all around the water heater. Once positioned, drill the proper size holes, run a bead of sealant, slide the heater back into postion and then secure the heater with the screws that come with it. Once installed with screws all around the flange, it is very stable. I did not add any addition supports between the inner and outer skin.
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Old 02-20-2014, 05:19 PM   #4
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Thanks for the answers. Still could use some help

Lance I saw your picture which is what alerted me that I had to tilt it up. I will modify mine .

Below are a few pictures of my situation. I feel a little thick, but I don't seem to have much of a flange and I thought the hole was pretty good fit from the original. Am I missing a piece that attaches to what I am showing.

The only thing I can think of is to frame out with some wood or angle alum. and screw into it, not front to back but from the side in.

I have seen a video installing a Suburban and it had a good lip to caulk or tape and screw around.

Also how do those triangle pieces work?
Any pictures of additional support used around opening?

Lance, I am going to pm on another matter

Thanks for the help and more would be great if you see what I am not getting

Tony
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Old 02-20-2014, 07:38 PM   #5
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Tony,
You must bend the four black flanges outward, then you will see the screw holes for fastening to the skin. The little angle pieces go on the four corners.
Here is a picture of an old water heater, but it mounts the same.
https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/phot...eat=directlink
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Old 02-20-2014, 08:08 PM   #6
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Bend the black flange back, then the four silver colored corner support can be installed. Have faith and bend it
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Old 02-21-2014, 01:59 AM   #7
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I will thanks all. I think it is a little weird set up. I was thinking well they do it that way because some installations are into a frame of wood from inside out. But that would leave the door keeper in operable.

Again thanks. You folks really do make a difference.

Tony
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Old 02-21-2014, 05:51 AM   #8
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I shimmed the water heater up in the back using standard cedar wood shims for installing cabinets. I also used 2x2 set between the inner and outer walls to 'frame' the openning somewhat. This made things pretty sturdy. Save your old stainless door for use w/ the new heater.

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Old 02-21-2014, 07:55 AM   #9
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I shimmed the inside back of the water heater up with a 1 foot piece of 1X4. I also screwed a piece of plumbers perforated straping over the water heater and screwed to the floor. That kept it from moving around on rough roads.
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Old 02-21-2014, 08:55 AM   #10
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1973 25' Tradewind
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Thanks again.

I did save the door. Heater long gone. Did most of you go with Atwood?

I went with the Atwood because they were said to fit better.

Tony
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Old 02-21-2014, 02:59 PM   #11
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1973 25' Tradewind
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Installed

In summary. Once you got me squared away with bending up the metal to form the flange I knew the rest. That is along with tilting it forward.

You can see in pics the job. The smeared stuff was previous owners doing. I tried to get it off with the MK substitute with not much luck. The real MK I was unable to find voc's I guess. I also didn't get the last little bit of old caulking off hence the rough bead upper lip.


I pleased with the results.

Thanks
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