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Old 04-10-2011, 12:41 PM   #1
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Revisit water heater relief valve leaking

I know, I know - many times before, AND I followed all the instructions including the Atwood PDF about "don't replace until you've bled" one pager.

If this newbie understands all the threads on this there are two options:
1 - check setting on water input regulator, or
2 - replace relief valve.

Questions:
1 - WHERE is the water input regulator? I've read every piece of paper I own and can't find a mention of it. Help?
2 - Is the relief valve replacement a DIY job for a fellow fairly handy with tools?
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Old 04-10-2011, 01:47 PM   #2
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Try this

Have you tried lifting the handle and opening the relief valve a few times? It may just have some crud in it. Lift the handle and let it snap closed and see what happens. It will help it if you have water pressure to blow any crud out.
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Old 04-10-2011, 02:04 PM   #3
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My pressure relief valve drips quite a bit on the initial heating. I lift the handle and let it snap back and after an hour or so the drip stops and no more drips for as long as the heater is being used.
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Old 04-10-2011, 02:11 PM   #4
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Maybe it's got a dry rubber.
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Old 04-10-2011, 03:33 PM   #5
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Greg, for the water input regulator, mine is behind a trapdoor inside my rear outside compartment, on the left.

Pat
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Old 04-10-2011, 06:30 PM   #6
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Thanks for all your suggestions. Yes, I've snapped it open and closed many times. When tapped lightly with a nail set and light mallet it CAN be made to stop streaming, but goes back to it's old ways right quick. This is NOT a small drip; this is running water streaming from the opening.

Pat, I'll go looking for that trap door. Thanks.
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Old 04-10-2011, 10:55 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Splitrock View Post
Maybe it's got a dry rubber.
Yeah, a dry rubber is no fun.
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Old 04-11-2011, 01:37 PM   #8
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Is there a thread to guide me on replacing the poppit?
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Old 04-11-2011, 11:26 PM   #9
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It should be pretty easy to remove. Empty the tank, unscrew the poppit with a suitable wrench and replace with a new one with pipe dope and don't over tighten.
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Old 04-12-2011, 08:49 AM   #10
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OK, off to the hardware store we go!
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Old 04-24-2011, 06:35 PM   #11
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Dripping pop-off valve

Hi Greg:

Ours drips, not a lot but irritating and the water drips onto the air to fuel adjustment. Ours is a 2004 30 ft. Classic. Took the trailer to Camping World last spring for its system checkout and told the technician about the dripping. Only happens when it's heating water. OK, we'll look at it. Came back and they said "they didn't have time to install a new valve, but we had the right one in stock so you can change it yourself." Now I understand why they didn't change it. I've had penetrating fluid on it for four days and can't budge it.

I also had a leak in the plastic drain plug so I replaced it as well. I have not tried moving the lever to see if there is crud in the valve but when I drained the six gallons in the tank into a bucket, it was crystal clear.

I think the problem is there are two metals involved here and it's all grown together. I don't know if a socket will work on that since there are only two points of contact for any wrench. I don't know any socket that will fit over the threaded water outlet. The neighbor is a retired aircraft mechanic and will see what he's got.

Paul
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Old 04-24-2011, 10:13 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tinearpaul
Hi Greg:

Ours drips, not a lot but irritating and the water drips onto the air to fuel adjustment. Ours is a 2004 30 ft. Classic. Took the trailer to Camping World last spring for its system checkout and told the technician about the dripping. Only happens when it's heating water. OK, we'll look at it. Came back and they said "they didn't have time to install a new valve, but we had the right one in stock so you can change it yourself." Now I understand why they didn't change it. I've had penetrating fluid on it for four days and can't budge it.

I also had a leak in the plastic drain plug so I replaced it as well. I have not tried moving the lever to see if there is crud in the valve but when I drained the six gallons in the tank into a bucket, it was crystal clear.

I think the problem is there are two metals involved here and it's all grown together. I don't know if a socket will work on that since there are only two points of contact for any wrench. I don't know any socket that will fit over the threaded water outlet. The neighbor is a retired aircraft mechanic and will see what he's got.

Paul
Paul,
We're here in camp and, after going through the drain-and-snap ritual yet again hot water POURED out of the relief valve until we stopped heating. We will love with it for a few more days until we get to the mothership and ask for help. We've really made a mess by the side of our lovely AS. It's odd no one know how to fix this. Does everyone live with a puddle under their water heater door?
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Old 05-12-2011, 04:00 PM   #13
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Post-repair update on this thread. Jackson Center analyzed the problem and tried the drain-and-reset routine. It was determined that both the relief valve and the thermostat needed replacement after these twelve years. Pulled away and camped the following night with a wonderfully performing water heater. The water was hot, immediate, and there was no waterfall down the side of our baby. So nice.
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Old 05-12-2011, 04:14 PM   #14
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Glad to hear that your problem was finally resolved!
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