looks like the original. the motor works fine when I throw the switch on the control panel...belt turns ok...actuator arm goes up and down....but no water comes out of the sink. This looks original...(73). Any point trying to fix it, or should I just replace it. I see in the camping world catalog, there are a wide range of pumps/prices. what do I need? owner's manual says that the pump supplies 3 gpm.
The previous owner's never used it, I don't think. They had it for 6 years, and didn't have a key for the fresh water tank filler. they only went to campsites with full hookups, so god only knows when this thing last pumped water.....
I would replace it unless you are a stickler for keeping everything in the trailer original. The new pumps are typically quieter, self-priming, and run dry without damage.
As far as new pumps go, price is probably more a indicator of quiet operation and smooth flow than it is build quality. Even the lower priced pumps seem very reliable.
__________________
John W. Irwin
2005 Classic 28 "Sabre-Dog III"
2004 Silverado 2500HD Duramax/Allison
WBCCI Region 9 Webmaster, #9632
thanks, guys. I was just wondering: is there any chance that I'm doing something wrong, here? does the pump need to be "primed" somehow? the owner's manual doesn't say anything about it....I'm wondering if the tank has to be completely full to get it started or something. Probably the internal seals are n-g....maybe difficult to replace, too, but I just want to make sure before I spend $$$. Its not like a pump is all that much money, but I'm nickel-and-diming myself to death, here...
Could be the problem. I had one trailer in the past where I had to put close to 10 gallons in the 20-gallon tank to get the pump to initially prime. After that, it would pump right down to empty. It would be worth topping it up to see.
Most new pumps are self-priming, but I'll bet one that old is not.
__________________
John W. Irwin
2005 Classic 28 "Sabre-Dog III"
2004 Silverado 2500HD Duramax/Allison
WBCCI Region 9 Webmaster, #9632
There is a rubber diaphram inside. If it sat dry for 6 years the rubber probably fell apart. That is why I said you should also replace the rubber hose, it is going to diissolve in your water.
I had one of these in a pickup camper. They are sort of noisy, it is self priming, so if you get enough water to cover the hoses it should prime.
I don't want to steer you wrong but that is a Par pump and I believe parts are available for it. Someone on this forum rebuilt theirs and mentioned it a number of months ago. They could probably point you in the right direction for a replacement diaphram if that is the problem. Wish I could be of more help.
__________________ Craig
AIR #0078
'01 2500hd ext. cab, 8.1 litre gas, 5 sp. Allison auto
3.73 rear end
Mag-Hytec rear diff cover
Amsoil Dual by-pass oil filtration system
Amsoil synthetics all around
265 watt AM Solar, Inc. system
Chuck. Overhaul kits are available for the old PAR pumps. The kit comes with valves, diaphragms and gaskets. Unused pumps usually need new valves. Different models have different kits.
When we looked into fixing our PAR pump it was going to cost almost as much as a new pump for the kit and of course, there was no guarantee that it would work with the kit.
We decided to replace/update it with a new ShurFlo instead.
I had this same problem on my '72 everyone thought it was the pump. It was a small check valve upstream that the guts had failed and would not let the system prim or pressurize. This problem lets you use shore water, but when you go to use the pump, no H2o or very low volume of H2o comes out of the tap, the pump will be running fine but no H2o.
This problem led the org. owners to sell it to me after they had replaced the pump, pure. filters and the pressure reg. I now have 2 good pumps, great tasting H2o and really good pressure.
The check vlv is easy and inexpensive to fix. On my TT it is located in the bedroom area. - Ray
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Cut to suit, Beat to fit, Paint to hide!!
is this check-valve supposed to seal-off when there's no city water pressure, so the pump doesn't just suck air? I've been trying to visualize how this city/pump system works without throwing a valve somewhere. the input/output lines for the pump just "disappear" under the floor of the trailer....
Your unit is probably exactly like mine. Where exactly was the valve located? under the steet-side bunk? Is it something you can buy at any plumbing supply house, or a special AS part? i'll probably need a pump, anyway, but just in case, I'd like to know more about this.....
Chuck; I'll try to write it, without confussing you too much.
The check valve keeps the system air tight, when the valve guts fail you have an open system. On my TT I would connect to shore H2o no prblem. What caught my eye was when disconnecting the H2o hose alot of water would run back out of the hard pipe of the TT.
My bedroom floor plan has one curbside bunk and the roadside has a closet and dresser with drawers.
The check valve is located under the closet on the deck. On mine, the pipe comes from the the underside into the compartment and right there is the inline check valve. Was not hard to remove. You have to remove it from the system to inspect it. Mine had all the info still on it so I could replace it. I verified the info with my TT's service book. Install valve with flow arrow pointing fwd.
Plumbing suply store or a TT repair store with a parts dept. will carry this valve. Price under $10.00. Cheap fix if this is the problem. Good luck , keep us posted. - Ray
__________________
Cut to suit, Beat to fit, Paint to hide!!
I have a 1974 International. Can anyone tell me how to properly wire the water pump. The water pump is a Par 36800. It appears to have a red relay switch mounted on the front of the pump. I was rebuilding my Airstream and the wire labels were lost.
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