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Old 05-14-2007, 07:17 PM   #15
Excella CM
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Profile:  1978 31' Excella 500
Venice , California
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Here's how Airstream shows the pump wiring. The device on the pump through which the pjositive lead goes is the pressure switch to shut off the pump when pressure is achieved.
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File Type: pdf Parpump.pdf (434.1 KB, 24 views)
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Old 05-14-2007, 08:13 PM   #16
Jim Weilhamm
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Profile:  1974 31' Sovereign
Tallahassee , Florida
Posts: 14

water pump wiring

Thanks for the reply about the wiring. i will attempt to use this arrangement. i have an orange wire from the control panel above that must connect to the 1st terminal. The second terminal on the switch must be the ground wire (white).
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Old 05-14-2007, 08:52 PM   #17
Ganglin
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Profile:  1971 27' Overlander
Gahanna , Ohio
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Jim,

The wiring diagram for 72 for your model does show the orange as hot and the white as ground.
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Old 05-14-2007, 08:56 PM   #18
Ganglin
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Chuck,

I have a diagram of the PAR 6800 if it will do you any good - it's small but may help. I could have it scanned at work sometime this week - let me know if you want it.
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Old 05-14-2007, 09:27 PM   #19
thecatsandi
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Replace it as well as the "raditor" hose lines.
I believe i have an Aquajet Variable speed pump. It works well.
A check valve downstream of you pump is a must. Keeps street water pressure off the pump.
An accumlator is recomended as well.
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Old 05-15-2007, 09:03 AM   #20
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I love it when 5-year-old threads pop back to life...

I guess I never reported back that I did buy a new pump.

after getting the old one out of the trailer, I realized that at least one of the problems was that one of those intake lines was cracked. duh. so, naturally, it was just sucking air. Old pump is sitting on a shelf in my basement. I keep saying that one of these days, I'm going to hook it up to a battery and a bucket of water, and see if it actually works. But I haven't, yet.

anway...fun to take a walk down memory lane. (have I really owned a trailer for this long? yeah, I guess I have. )
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Old 05-15-2007, 09:46 AM   #21
Ganglin
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At least Jim got a new answer to his wiring question....
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Old 05-15-2007, 06:14 PM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chuck
anway...fun to take a walk down memory lane. (have I really owned a trailer for this long? yeah, I guess I have. )
When did you buy your trailer? I think you might have purchased before us.
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Old 05-16-2007, 09:00 AM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by yukionna
When did you buy your trailer? I think you might have purchased before us.
June of '02
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Old 05-16-2007, 10:44 AM   #24
HiHoAgRV
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Profile:  1977 29' Ambassador
Brandon , Mississippi
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chuck
Ray,

is this check-valve supposed to seal-off when there's no city water pressure, so the pump doesn't just suck air? I've been trying to visualize how this city/pump system works without throwing a valve somewhere. the input/output lines for the pump just "disappear" under the floor of the trailer....

Your unit is probably exactly like mine. Where exactly was the valve located? under the steet-side bunk? Is it something you can buy at any plumbing supply house, or a special AS part? i'll probably need a pump, anyway, but just in case, I'd like to know more about this.....

thanks

-Chuck
The system has 3 check valves. One at the hose connection for city water, one in the pumps inlet and one in the pumps outlet. The city water one keeps the water from spewing out the hose connection when you turn on the pump and pressurize the system. The ones in the pump are sorta dual purpose. The pump won't work if either one is bad but as long as at least one is working, they keep the city water from back flowing through the pump and filling the freshwater tank. I saw a SOB in a campground gushing from the fill port after the owner removed the bad pump and replaced it with a straight through hose. This can also happen if your pump is REAALY bad so don't hook up the city water and leave.
My PAR pump wouldn't prime this year and a rebuild kit was 2/3's the price of a new variable speed pump. I went with the new one...
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