Problem with my water heater
Atwood water heater When I press the switch in the bath room the red light comes on then goes out for a couple of seconds then comes right back on. I checked everything below from a previous post. I do smell gas for a second and hear a click and that is it! NO ignition. It does not keep clicking like most igniters i have ever heard. I did not see any reset button like described below. I did have contunity between all of the components as suggested by the post below.
I have one more quick question about the bypass positions of the valves. I have seen a pic of them being lined up with the direction of the tubing when opened and cross ways when closed. I have a 1996 Excella 25'. The book says close valve B and open A&C. Do the valves in this unit function like a ball valve or like a regular hose bib valve where you turn them counter clockwise till they stop????
Any ideas that might help please let me know
(((((You either have no power going to the igniter circuit (but if you have a red light on your interior switch, then in all likelihood, you DO have 12VDC present), or you have bad contacts to the igniter board or a bad board.
First, you should check the condition of the ECO and thermostat that are right in the front of the heater....under the foam rectangle. Check to see that the t/stat is not tripped (there is a little re-set button in between the electrical contact pads. If you have a VOM meter, you should disconnect the wires going into these components and check for continuity on both, as either may be defective, and your unit will not ignite without voltage passing thru these (safety issues). Water contact does not negatively affect these.
Next, there is a little thermal fuse that's covered in a clear plastic tube going into the ECO that might be shorted. You can also check this for continuity (once disconnected). If no continuity...it should be replaced.
Next, remove the flat connector plug from the igniter board and using a pencil eraser, clean the contacts. Then, replace and remove this plug on the board several times just to be sure that it is making good contact. Also, check that the orange hi-voltage wire that feeds the igniter (like a spark plug wire) is fully inserted into the coil on the igniter board.
If all of the above fails and you have the proper continuity that I described, you have a bad igniter board. I WOULD NOT REPLACE IT WITH AN OEM BOARD!!!!!!!! Get a Dinosaur Electronics 'UIB-Small' board with weather cover, and you'll never have another board problem with your water heater again! 3 year warranty too!)))))))