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Old 04-22-2005, 02:10 PM   #1
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pressurized galvanized tank vs. water pump

I’m converting my original (galvanized, leaking) pressurized water tank to a newer plastic tank w/water pump. I’m hoping to use a ‘recycled’ Shurflo pump (don’t have the details with me right now…) from a friends donor camper. This pump came with an external, remotely mounted switch.



My question is: how is this pump designed to operate? Will I have to flip the switch on and off each time I want to us the sink or toilet or does the pump stay on until the system reaches a given pressure then cycle on and off as the pressure drops?



Would a demand driven pump be better (or even the same?)?



Please advise.



Thanks.
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Old 04-22-2005, 02:43 PM   #2
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Most demand pumps have some sort of pressure sensor built in. The remote switch you mention may just be the way your friend cut power to the pump when water was not expected to be used.

Post the details when you get them. You are probably in good shape, but better answers will be available if you can provide the pump's model number.

Tom
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Old 04-22-2005, 02:52 PM   #3
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Thanks,

will do when I get home tonight. I'm sure the pump is probably from the 70's or 80's....I just don't know how they work....and of course the system was dry when we stripped it out so we couldn't really test it or mess with it...

I'll forward the info...
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Old 04-25-2005, 10:02 AM   #4
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Seems that the pump looks to be a Shurflo type IV Model no. 1101 or 1151 as best I can tell (I can't make out the third number completely).


I'll post some pics tonight if needed.
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Old 04-29-2005, 08:37 AM   #5
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Do those numbers mean anything to any of you?
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Old 05-02-2005, 03:25 PM   #6
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finally got a picture of the pump...
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Old 05-02-2005, 03:39 PM   #7
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attaching now.....
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Old 05-02-2005, 05:09 PM   #8
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Doug,

Man, I'm sorry you haven't gotten inciteful responses to your original post; I was sure there were a bunch of Shurflo enthusiasts out there who would know the answer to your question. I can't personally answer your question as I am now using a Flojet VSD.

I still think you will be okay, but at this point, you can either just plug it in & see if it blows a fuse, or hook a gauge up to the output and see if the pump stops running at around 45 psig.

The latter alternative would be best. Please feel free to contact me offline if you would like more detail.

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Old 05-02-2005, 05:36 PM   #9
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Hi Traveler;

Not sure if this will help - we bought a new one Sureflow it looks about the same size as yours - it works with our dual system from 110 and 12V - basically 12 volt or converted 110 to 12V as I have since learned.

Our is switched meaning you can turn it on and it presurizes the system - when you turn the tap on poof here come water a novel invention .

However we turn our switch off when not in use - one to save on the battery for inadvertent cycling of the motor - on leaky 60's taps and two if you have not replaced the plumbing on these old girls - you just never know when you will spring a leak - if you are away from your trailer and she blows - then you will have a nice new shinny swimming pool inside.

If we are around we leave the switch on - but when we are not and at night we turn it off. But when Peter gets to the replaced plumbing we will not have to worry about the switch being left on -cause there will be no leaks.

If you need instructions - I could scan it for you and send you an e-mail of the instructions that came with ours?
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Old 05-02-2005, 06:42 PM   #10
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Normally there is a ground wire and a hot lead. The hot lead goes to a pressure switch that is built into the head of the pump, and the it goes to the motor. When the pressure drops, the switch closes and the pump runs if power is supplied.

I only see one red and one black lead. They both look like they are going to the motor. This would mean to me that there is not a switch on the pump.

Tom's idea of hooking a valve to it and running and cutting off is a good test, but I bet you will find that it does not cut out on back pressure.
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Old 05-02-2005, 09:23 PM   #11
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I think I'm seeing how this might work.


the switch, which isn't pictured, connects to the end opposite to the wires that you can see. It is wired to two lugs or slide on connectors (I don't know the technical name....but I think they're called blade connectors or something like that?)....

Would a pressure test work if I hooked the pump to a water tank at one end and then plugged the line at the other to simulate pressure? or would I have to mock up a facet?

Thanks again.
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Old 05-03-2005, 04:54 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Traveller
...Would a pressure test work if I hooked the pump to a water tank at one end and then plugged the line at the other to simulate pressure? ...
Yes, but it would be best to plug the end with a gauge of some sort. I have seen suitable gauges at home improvement stores for under $10.

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Old 05-03-2005, 04:58 AM   #13
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Also, once the pump is up to pressure, make sure it is drawing no current. If it does, then it either has no pressure sensor, or the one it has is bad.

Tom
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