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Old 05-17-2014, 04:38 PM   #1
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No hot water pressure!

After "summerizing" our 2012 Flying Cloud 30' I have little to no water pressure when turning any faucet to hot. The water heater is working. Is there an inline filter in the system that could be plugged? Cold water pressure is fine...
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Old 05-17-2014, 04:44 PM   #2
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Check the valves on the water heater bypass plumbing.

If they are correct, purge the air off the water heater by manually opening the pressure relief and allow the air to escape. Be careful when opening the relief valve, hot air and steam may spray out first.


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Old 05-17-2014, 05:39 PM   #3
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JD,

Thank you... I did try that, and the water tank does appear to be full and hot. However, still no change.
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Old 05-17-2014, 05:42 PM   #4
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DO you have the big silver bypass valve with only one other hand valve? If so, take it apart....you'll find a strainer full of plumbers putty and other gunk.
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Old 05-17-2014, 07:44 PM   #5
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I have been camping in Airstreams for years and ran into this same problem for the first time last month. Very annoying.

I did the hotwater heater bypass valve check and drained the hotwater heater tank without result.

I fixed the problem by using the water pump to draw water from the freshwater tank and used that pressure to clear the cold and hot water lnes of air. It worked and I switched over to city water and everything worked fine. I still have no idea what caused the air lock problem. Hope this helps.
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Old 05-19-2014, 01:58 PM   #6
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I have had the same problem and did everything I could to fix it. Almost bought a new one.

When I decamped and set up at the next site, it was fixed.

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Old 05-19-2014, 07:01 PM   #7
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I went out tonight and pulled the access panel off around the hot water heater. I tried banging on the check valve with a wrench (carefully) to no avail. I tried completely draining and refilling the hot water heater with the pressure valve open. I tried switching to pump instead of city water. I think my next step will be to raise and lower the front end to see if I can release any air bubbles. So far, no successes.

I do have plenty of cold water pressure. Here's a clue that someone might use to figure this out, if you're smarter than I am. When I turn the shower on COLD I have plenty of pressure, and if I leave that running and turn on another faucet COLD, I still have plenty of pressure. However, if I turn on another faucet HOT, the COLD water pressure in the shower drops immediately and significantly.

I'm stumped. Maybe it's time to buy a new Airstream. This one's two years old already...
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Old 05-19-2014, 07:18 PM   #8
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Look at the back side of the hot water tank. Inside the RV. There are 3 to 5 vavles. The 2 on the floor are drains. the two lines that go to the tank should be open and the one that connect them should be closed. Open means the handle is in line with the pipe.
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Old 05-19-2014, 07:30 PM   #9
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Corrosion (a white scale) most likely built up over the winter inside the water heater. This is normal when the water heater ages. If it did corrode, you will see a lot of crud in the fixture strainer screens after it has gotten into the pipes, then into the faucets and shower head. Take the shower head off and clean the strainer screen inside the end of the hose, then run hot water through the hose for a few minutes. Next, take the strainer screen off the outlet of both the kitchen and lavatory faucets and clean them, then flush hot water through them for a few minutes.

I've had to do this several times over the last 20 years.

If the above does not work you might try this: On my Safari, the valve on the outflow side of the water heater seems to let water pass better if it is not 100% open. Try closing the valves about 1/8 to 1/4 turn.
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Old 05-19-2014, 08:25 PM   #10
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Look at the hot water outlet on the heater's tank (upper outlet) and see if you have a brass cylinder directly connected to the tank output. If you do, it is probably a check valve with a plastic insert. These are notorious for failing and not allowing the hot water to leave the tank, regardless of the street water pressure or water pump operation.

If you have one, you can simply remove it for now and still use your hot water tank, but I would replace it with an all brass check valve (that's a brass plunger and spring as well as a brass body) at your earliest convenience.
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Old 05-19-2014, 08:26 PM   #11
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No hot water pressure!

AW Warn, those are both great thoughts, and I will try them tomorrow night. The trailer is relatively new, and I have no problem with cold water pressure, so I don't think it's scale, but I'll check to be sure. I will definitely try the water bypass valve in different positions.


Bigventure & Lewster, Here's a picture of my valve setup:

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The yellow valve is the bypass, and I believe the larger metal cylinder at the top of the water heater is a mixer valve....
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Old 05-19-2014, 08:31 PM   #12
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The by pass is OPEN! The vavle is in line with the pipe. Turn the yellow handle 90 degrees. This will close the bypass and give you hot water.

The cylinder is not a mixer vavle. I'm not sure what it is. My guess is a strainer or check vavle.
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Old 05-19-2014, 08:44 PM   #13
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Bigventure, the diagram on the water heater, although not visible, shows the bypass as "winterized" when it is perpendicular to the pipe and "in use" when in line with the pipe. Am I backwards on this?
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Old 05-19-2014, 08:45 PM   #14
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Yes your backwards
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