New water pump-? fresh water tank

[ticki2]

Originally Posted by lovemy55

I hope it is OK for me to jump in on this thread. I’m looking for an answer to the very similar problems we’ve encountered on our ’84 Sovereign, a 27’ side bath.

We’ve never used the water tank or pump. The previous owner apparently seldom or never used the fresh water pump and full timed for years at parks with full hook ups, several places with freezing temperatures.

I inspected the fresh water screen strainer/filter removed it and cleaned it. I also pulled and cleaned the long coil spring looking things from inside the suction line at each end of the strainer. The suction line and strainer looked moldy and dirty so we filled the water tank with the water and bleach mixture recommended in our owner’s manual and factory service manual.

The pump fired right up but would not readily cycle off. We’re former boaters and are familiar with the sound of a water pump cycling when water is drawn from the system. But the pump in our trailer runs for five minutes or more before shutting off. The clear strainer/filter never fills all the way up with water, but we have decent water volume at the kitchen and bath. Fresh water is leaking from somewhere at the fresh water tank. It didn’t leak until we filled the water tank but looking below the trailer I see that it has leaked before.

Does this sound like a leak in the suction side of the pump line?

Also, our pressure regulator is located in the roadside storage compartment next to the water heater. It is obvious that something was removed from the plumbing line between the regulator and the city water connection as a piece of tubing was spliced in. Was this some sort of check valve? When we run the water pump it pressurizes the city water connection. (We have to plug the city water inlet or all the fresh water in the tank is pumped out through it. ) There’s no other check valve that I can find in the plumbing, but somehow when we’re connected to city water our fresh water tank does not fill up. I assume the pump acts as a check valve to prevent this.

Any help or advice would be greatly appreciated.

I would say that you are correct with your assumptions.

The pump acts as a check valve to prvent city water from going into the tank.

There should be a check valve where you found the hose splice to prevent the pump water from going out the city connection.

The coil spring in the hose is to prevent it from collapsing with suction

The pump staying on is probably a small leak in the suction line . ( Did it have a hard time getting prime?)
It could also be a faulty pressure switch on the pump.

[BogieGolf]

Once again, the fine people on this forum have helped me out…
The cycling pump issue was caused by a small leak in the suction line. Upon further investigation we found that our pump was showing signs of age so we replaced it and added a Shure Flo accumulator tank into the system. Now we have a quieter pump that runs less frequently. We replaced the flex lines, too, but did not reinstall the stainless coil springs inside the hoses. They seem to work fine without them.

We installed a city water check valve, SOB style, where the hose fitting was.

Our ’84 Sovereign has hot and cold water PEX T-handle drain valves installed in a chase below the kitchen sink. This chase goes all the way through the floor – you can see the back side of the belly pan access cover if you peer through.

We also found a fresh water tank drain plug behind the belly pan access cover. The plug was gooped into place with ½ a tube of white silicone. We cleaned it and reinstalled with Teflon tape, followed by Teflon paste. Now it doesn’t leak.

I hope this information can help someone else.

[ticki2]

Glad you got it fixed . Everything we learn and share helps someone else , thanks for posting results.

[zamboni]

When is the lawsuit over the Polybutylene (gray and black tubing) used for fresh water supply deadline? I read about it (searched internet) but am unsure of it's meaning pertaining to travel trailers and motorhomes. Seems it depend on the installation, usage and whether damage was done. Doesn't cover just replacing prior to failure...from what I can interpret.

Polybutylene pipe is a plastic developed for use as a plumbing product by Shell Oil Company. There are a few problems associated with polybutylene. These problems are associated with homes built from 1/1/78 to 7/31/95. Most areas have banned the use of polybutylene. There are some class action law suits against the manufacturers as well as the installers and are trying to settle the damages. One has been settled for 950 million dollars and the fund will remain open until the year 2009 or 16 years after date of installation, which ever is soonest. For information on claims call; 800-356-3496, they will send you a form and if you qualify an Inspector will be sent to evaluate the conditions. to make a claim there does have to be a leak of failure of the product. For commercial claims or multi unit dwellings contact 800-876-4698.
Exterior; Big Blue, Vanguard Claim must be within 11 years of installation The supply line from the outside is sometimes referred to as "Big Blue, and may be identified by its light blue color. This type of polybutylene is susceptible to shearing at the foundation wall due to ground settlement outside. One recommendation is to sleeve the pipe through the wall for additional reinforcement. Another recommendation is to simply replace it. The plastic is also reported to break down due to elevated levels of chlorine, there has not been any established time frame for this to occur.
INTERIOR; Vanguard Claim must be within 13 years (acetyl fittings), 16 years (metal fittings) of installation Interior polybutylene is identified by its gray color. When this product first came out the ends were connected by metal barbed connectors, that were held in place with a copper crimped band. The metal fittings were overall adequate. Later plastic barbed fittings were introduced. These fittings were prone to cracking off and failing, due to crimping of the copper or aluminum bands, and could allow water to free flow. The plastic fittings may develop hairline cracks from the pressure of the crimping and should be replaced with approved metal fittings. In some areas highly acid water can deteriorate copper pipe in a relatively short time, or burst due to freezing. Polybutylene is virtually unaffected by these conditions. Why don't they pull copper off the market as well? Polybutylene has a good flow rate, is more impervious to freeze, and has fewer connections. We should be aware of its problems but know its strengths as well. *Note: Some information has been taken from Cox vs. Shell Oil, et al.
Has anyone sought replacement from AS for using this product or applied for reimbursement from the Class Action Law Suit?

[boonskyler]

thanks, this should motivate me to start work on water pump on my 80 AS. the pump is running, but water is Not come out at faucets.

Originally Posted by 84Sovereign

Once again, the fine people on this forum have helped me out…
The cycling pump issue was caused by a small leak in the suction line. Upon further investigation we found that our pump was showing signs of age so we replaced it and added a Shure Flo accumulator tank into the system. Now we have a quieter pump that runs less frequently. We replaced the flex lines, too, but did not reinstall the stainless coil springs inside the hoses. They seem to work fine without them.

We installed a city water check valve, SOB style, where the hose fitting was.

Our ’84 Sovereign has hot and cold water PEX T-handle drain valves installed in a chase below the kitchen sink. This chase goes all the way through the floor – you can see the back side of the belly pan access cover if you peer through.

We also found a fresh water tank drain plug behind the belly pan access cover. The plug was gooped into place with ½ a tube of white silicone. We cleaned it and reinstalled with Teflon tape, followed by Teflon paste. Now it doesn’t leak.

I hope this information can help someone else.