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ventport · 08-27-2013, 04:07 PM

I searched and could not find my exact problem. I bought a new Atwood water heater from a fellow who had it on the shelf in his shop for a few years, it had never been installed. It's a model GC6AA10E. It has electronic ignition and a 110 volt element. When I turn it on, it never stays lit on the first try. It always takes 3 tries, and sometimes goes into lockout and will then light and stay running on the 4th try. Even after running a while I can shut it off and it will not light and stay running on the first try. I unplugged all the connections and re plugged, removed and reinstalled all the grounds. Re gapped the igniter, and checked for webs in the gas tube. When I say it will not light and stay running, it sparks and ignites the gas and burns for about 2 seconds and when the spark quits the flame goes out. Any ideas how to fix this, as there is no warrantee because I bought it from a private party.

**jcanavera** · 08-27-2013, 04:16 PM

Is it possible that you haven't cleared the air in the gas line? Either that or the thermocouple might be flakey. That would cause the flame to go out after it lights. While your water heater is pilotless, that thermocouple would be there to verify that a flame is present. The other possibility is you have a gas leak which would allow air to get into the line. That might explain the hard relighting situation after it has been running. I'm assuming you have checked for that. First guess would be that thermocouple.

idroba · 08-27-2013, 05:46 PM

There have also been some issues with enough combustion air. For kicks, try it with the door open on the heater and see if it stays lighted. I had one which would always work if I left the door open, but was erratic if it was closed. I know others have had the problem, and there is some kind of a solution, but not sure what it is.

dznf0g · 08-27-2013, 05:54 PM

Check for a minimum of 9.5 volts supplying the board. Any less and the gas solenoid will not stay open.

ventport · 08-27-2013, 06:05 PM

The air is all out of the line, I just picked up a gas pressure meter from my son so I will check that tomorrow. It makes no difference if the door is open or closed. Is the thermocouple also the spark igniter? That is the only wire or line that goes into the combustion area. If not what proves the flame is lit? It seems like by lighting it and it going out 3 times, it heats it up enough so it keeps going on the 4th try. If that makes any sense. How many times is it supposed to spark in each of the 3 cycles before it locks out. This one only sparks 3 times.

dznf0g · 08-27-2013, 06:13 PM

3 attempts then the switch must be cycled. That's normal. Are you plugged into shore power. Is battery charged. I just went through this with the dinosaur board tech. Atwood needs 9.5 volts and dinosaur needs >10 volts. You describe just the behavior he said low voltage causes.

ventport · 08-27-2013, 06:22 PM

My battery reads 12.7 volts, but I will check it at the water heater tomorrow in case there is a loss somewhere in between. What I meant by sparks 3 times is, it sparks 3 times in a row and lights and goes out, sparks 3 times in a row lights and goes out and does it one last time and locks out. So I get a total of 9 sparks, 3 per try then lockout.

dznf0g · 08-27-2013, 06:30 PM

I think it'll spark rapidly for about 3 or 4 seconds or until it senses flame (staying on or not) Sounds like you're getting an ignition pop, then a re-ignition attempt. Do you know the year of production? They have had some bad boards. I've been through 2 atwoods. The new replacements look to be redesigned.

ventport · 08-27-2013, 06:38 PM

Is the year of production on the water heater somewhere? If so I will look in the morning. What senses the flame? I see no thermocouple like the furnace or fridge has.

cwf · 08-27-2013, 06:43 PM

We have similar instability in lighting. Great spark, good flame.

The igniter probe was carbines up at one time so I cleaned it. That only fixed it temporarily.

We replaced the probe. That fixed it for a while longer. However, if running gas + electric the RED light comes on sometimes.. Maybe it is over temp ?

So, not trying to hijack, just wondering if you are running gas + electric?

dznf0g · 08-27-2013, 06:47 PM

I'll have to look. Thought there was a thermocouple mounted to the same plate that the ignitor electrodes is on?????

Aage · 08-27-2013, 06:56 PM

Would'nt hurt to blow out the large pipe where the gas burns at one end and the exhaust comes out the other end. Spiders love to block that pipe, wholly or partially.

Spray with a few blasts from a can of compressed air.

What's to lose?

ventport · 08-27-2013, 07:08 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by dznf0g

I'll have to look. Thought there was a thermocouple mounted to the same plate that the ignitor electrodes is on?????

Just the electrodes on mine. I will try the air blast in the morning also. It is running on LP only with the ignition problem, 110 volts works fine.

**jcanavera** · 08-27-2013, 08:04 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by cwf

We have similar instability in lighting. Great spark, good flame.

The igniter probe was carbines up at one time so I cleaned it. That only fixed it temporarily.

We replaced the probe. That fixed it for a while longer. However, if running gas + electric the RED light comes on sometimes.. Maybe it is over temp ?

So, not trying to hijack, just wondering if you are running gas + electric?

Electric and gas on at the same time shouldn't affect the operation or lighting of the water heater. We run that way at shower time and never had ignition problems. There is a sensor that detects the lighting of the burner. I called it a thermocouple but in a sense that might be a bad term since it brings about thoughts of a standing pilot which you definitely do not have. So assuming you don't have a something interfering with the burner (like a spider web), you would have to figure a defective flame sensor or control board.

Jack

**jcanavera** · 08-27-2013, 08:07 PM

Here's some thoughts from the RV Net forum that are dealing with the same problem you are.

RV.Net Open Roads Forum: Atwood water heater lights then goes out

Jack

cwf · 08-27-2013, 08:25 PM

Yeah guys, thanks!

I took those steps as described. May have other blockage since the repair.

The "thermocouple" is designed to detect the ionization present when a flame is present. It is the same contacts/probes which deliver the spark.

I will Recertify clear airflow as y'all recommend!!!

ventport · 08-28-2013, 09:23 AM

OK so I went out to the Argosy this morning, and here is what I have done. I blew out the the big vent tube that heats the water with 125 lbs of compressed air, nothing came out. I checked the voltage at the board plug and got 12.85. I cleaned the connections to the board with an eraser, then electronic parts cleaner and blew off with air. I removed the gas orifice and hit it with cleaner and compressed air. I checked the gas pressure at the orifice where the gas comes out into the air tube and got 11"wc when the solenoid would open, and then the pressure would drop to zero when it closed. So it must have an internal bleeder in the valve for the pressure do go back to zero when the solenoid closes. I cleaned the part of the igniter that is in the flame with a red scotch pad. It now lights on the 2nd try, and once it will hold a flame I can turn it off and back on and it will light and stay lit on the first try every time. It seems once the ignition assembly gets warm it will light and keep going on the first try every time. So do I need to get a new igniter?

dznf0g · 08-28-2013, 09:29 AM

My GUESS, based on prior experience, is a failing board. Had one behave this way this summer. It was a Dinosaur and they replaced it free (3 year warranty), but I was on the move so I had them send it to the house. I bought an Atwood on the road for the rest of the trip. I now have a spare, and since I am on my 3rd board in 3 years, I'll probably need it. Or I have just been unlucky. You may consider getting one, comparing the old to the new and keep the old one, since it still sorta works, as a backup.

mocus · 08-28-2013, 10:23 AM

I am having same problem with my 2006 Bambi's Atwood G6A-8E water heater that seems to be the discussion of the day.. I have cleaned every contact w/eraser, contact cleaner. replaced eco/t-stat, thermal coupler, and she worked for a while, prior to last camping trip. Got there and she decided to be stubborn and go on another strike. I have cleaned orifice, tubes, ignitor (making sure tube from orifice to ignitor straight) exhaust tube. I have gas to stove/refrigerator, etc.
1. Does continuity through the resistor in the thermal coupler indicate all is normal with the coupler? (could there be anything else wrong with it?).
2. I hope not, but could it be another replacement of the eco/t-stat would rectify? Oh, I do get the occasional burst of flame on the third attempt, but no lighting--I can hear the attempts to light.
3. Dumb question, I know...Between which wires checks the voltage supplied to unit, and what should the reading be (12v?). And, if low/high what would be the fix?

I have tried calling Atwood and the waiting time, I think, is over a week??? I have---I think---done everything suggested in manual. Any other thoughts, besides replacing entire unit? I have asked assistance on this same subject and it is very much appreciated....But, I am missing something. Thanks guys/gals. Tom

ventport · 08-28-2013, 03:42 PM

From what I have found on the internet, and my symptoms that it works OK once it finally stay lit, I am going to replace the spark and sense electrode. I think mine is week and needs 2 or 3 tries to heat up enough to let the board know there is a flame. In the comments on Amazon, people who had the same symptoms replaced this and it fixed the problem. I will report back once I get the new part and install it.