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05-03-2008, 06:36 PM
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#21
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2 Rivet Member
2008 31' Classic
Benton Harbor
, Michigan
Join Date: Mar 2007
Posts: 47
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Worth a try
Musketeer, I like your idea of trying to pull additional wires into the original switch location. Let us know how that goes ... good luck!
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05-03-2008, 07:09 PM
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#22
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2 Rivet Member
1989 25' Excella
1998 36' Land Yacht Widebody
Kimball
, Minnesota
Join Date: Dec 2005
Posts: 71
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Wiring for new hot water heater
I think I have figured out a way to mount the hot water heater switch in the the bathroom, like the orginal. This might be specific to my vintage/type of trailer which is a 1989 25' Excella with midbath. The gas/electric model uses a switch plate with two switches and the red light. Sunset Coast mounted his on the face frame of the bed pedestal per the picture earlier in this thread, a good solution and relatively easy. But the orginal switch was in the bathroom and would be more convient and visible there.. It looks to me like it would be easy to pass the additional wire under the shower seat along the top of the wheel well cover and into the bathroom vanity. From there I can drill a small hole in the inner skin and fish it up to the switch. I also will need to move the bathroom water pump switch a couple of inches to the left. Now I need to try and figure out which wire is what. Sunset Coast, do you have a wiring diagram? I have a blue, yellow, brown and white wires at the switch. I'm guessing that the blue and yellow are the "hot" 12v+ and the white is the ground (-). I must be more mechanical than electrical.
If anyone is interested I will post pictures and try to keep a few notes on how to do this.
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05-03-2008, 09:20 PM
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#23
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Rivet Master
Airstream Dealer
Corona
, California
Join Date: Feb 2002
Posts: 16,497
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sunset Coast
Harbor, MI) One guy (son of one of the original owners) talked about how they used "exploding rivets" ... used heat to set off the small charge on the tip of the rivet. I've never seen these. Good luck on your project.
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Exploding rivets were made by Dupont.
During my early days with Airstream, I used many thousands of them.
They were not too bad, but you had to use the right technic. If not, the rivets would be loose.
In 1970, when I was with Caravanner Insurance, the insurance division of Airstream, dupont announced that they would no longer make that rivet.
I called Dupont and on behalf of Airstream, and offered to but 20,000,000 of them.
Dupont said "NOPE."
That led to the development of the now famous "Olympic" rivet, although the first version of the olympic was a dud.
Andy
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05-04-2008, 02:06 PM
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#24
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2 Rivet Member
2008 31' Classic
Benton Harbor
, Michigan
Join Date: Mar 2007
Posts: 47
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Wiring
Musketeer, I am travelling this week so I don't have access to my notes. Do you a voltmeter so you can check for +12VDC and grd? I think the brown wire is what controls the water heater, not sure about the others.
Andy, thanks for more history about exploding rivets.... interesting stuff!
Doug
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05-10-2008, 06:19 AM
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#25
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2 Rivet Member
1989 25' Excella
1998 36' Land Yacht Widebody
Kimball
, Minnesota
Join Date: Dec 2005
Posts: 71
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Success at pulling wire into bathroom
I was able to slide a tape measure tape from under the bathroom vanity, under the shower seat and right out by the water heater. I made up a plastic conduit with two wires (so all of the colors would match) and pulled it under the shower and into the vanity. Then I drilled a hole in the side skin big enough for the two wires about 8" below the old water heater switch location. I fished a wire up and out of the switch hole, taped the new wires to it and pulled them through. Made a grommet and seal to the hole under the vanity with silicon. The new switch is bigger than the old, so I moved the water pump switch to the left. I cut a new hole for the new water pump switch and used the space from both old switches for the new w/h switch. Now I'm on to wiring the 120v side.
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05-10-2008, 06:45 AM
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#26
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Rivet Master
Commercial Member
Vintage Kin Owner
Naples
, Florida
Join Date: Dec 2005
Posts: 7,508
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Quote:
Originally Posted by musketeer
.............'snip'....... Made a grommet and seal to the hole under the vanity with silicon............'snip'...........
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musketeer,
I hope that this in the only place that you ever use silicone on your trailer. If you check any of the numerous threads on this Forum on the subject, you will see the perils that you expose when you use this stuff. It's just shouldn't be used anywhere in an RV....IMHO! Any quality polyurethane sealant is far superior to silicone!!!!!
The preceeding has been a public service announcement!
Sounds like a great job otherwise!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
__________________
lewster
Solar Tech Energy Systems, Inc.
Victron Solar Components and Inverters, Zamp Solar Panels, LiFeBlue and Battle Born Lithium Batteries, Lifeline AGM Batteries
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05-11-2008, 07:44 PM
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#27
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2 Rivet Member
1989 25' Excella
1998 36' Land Yacht Widebody
Kimball
, Minnesota
Join Date: Dec 2005
Posts: 71
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Whoopps. I thought that for an interior grommet silicon would be okay. I just wanted to keep the wires from shorting out if they rubbed against the edge of the hole. Thanks for the tip,Lewster!
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05-14-2008, 02:23 PM
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#28
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Rivet Master
Vintage Kin Owner
1977 31' Excella 500
Berkeley Springs
, West Virginia
Join Date: Sep 2005
Posts: 1,638
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Butyl Tape
Guys,
I am getting ready to install my new Atwood. Where do you get the butyl tape? I need some.
Thanks!
__________________
- Jim
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05-14-2008, 07:04 PM
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#29
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Rivet Master
1972 25' Tradewind
North Vancouver
, British Columbia
Join Date: Feb 2006
Posts: 3,421
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Try a store that sells window glass, if your local hardware store doesn't carry it.
__________________
Cameron & the Labradors, Kai & Samm
North Vancouver, BC
Live! Life's a banquet and most poor suckers are starving to death! - Mame Dennis
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05-14-2008, 07:24 PM
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#30
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2 Rivet Member
2008 31' Classic
Benton Harbor
, Michigan
Join Date: Mar 2007
Posts: 47
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Butyl tape
I picked my roll up at the local Airstream dealership. I would think most RV dealership / service centers would have this. Good luck and post pics!
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05-15-2008, 04:49 AM
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#31
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Rivet Master
Vintage Kin Owner
1977 31' Excella 500
Berkeley Springs
, West Virginia
Join Date: Sep 2005
Posts: 1,638
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Thanks guys. My local Airstream dealer is 2.5 hours away
There is an RV shop in the next town I can call. They might have it. If not, I'll get it online.
I'll get some pics up when I start the surgery
__________________
- Jim
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05-17-2008, 06:21 AM
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#32
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Rivet Master
1966 26' Overlander
Woodstock
, Georgia
Join Date: Feb 2002
Posts: 8,525
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I got the new Atwood last night. Same tyoe as I had before 6 gall ,gas only. Suits our purposes fine. I am hopeful to get it in there today, just wondering about that same gas line that comes thru the bottom, will I need a new one and then have to flare it and put on a fitting?
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05-17-2008, 07:25 AM
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#33
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Rivet Master
2006 30' Classic S/O
Currently Looking...
Mohrsville
, Pennsylvania
Join Date: Jun 2006
Posts: 1,313
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Going Down The Same Road
Sunset,
I am probably going down the same road you did. I think I may get one more season out of the water heater on my '87, but it will need to be replaced. Since yours is a very close model year and from your pictures your set up / layout / location of the water heater is very similar to mine.
My questions are how hard was the old one to un-plumb and remove? Do you have any pictures of that or pointers you can provide? Like what is the minumum amount of connections that have to be un-done to remove the old unit? Did you have to use new connections or did you salvage the old one?
The gas line on mine comes up from pretty much directly beneath the water heater and at the factory they must have drilled an extra hole to get the gas line to come up from directly underneath the water heater. The factory hole is plugged with some kind of putty / caulk. How much gas line re-work did you have to do to get the line to come through the factory hole in the water heater?
The electrical work is pretty straight forward and I like your sub-panel idea and will most likely use your idea.
Thanks
__________________
Carl, Elaine & Finn The Beagle
2006 30' Classic W Slide & Limited Package Katarina
2006 GMC 2500 HD 6.6 Turbo Diesel Crew Cab 8' Bed
TAC PA-3
S/OS#042
AIR #14487
NQ3U (was KB3UOM)
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05-17-2008, 09:28 AM
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#34
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Rivet Master
1972 25' Tradewind
North Vancouver
, British Columbia
Join Date: Feb 2006
Posts: 3,421
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I just removed mine yesterday. It took 20 minutes. The gas line, cold and hot water lines diconnected easily. The hardest part was separating the heater from the skin, which involved cutting through the sealant applied at the perimeter of the opening. I used a sharpened popsicle stick as a scraper to do this, as a metal blade would scratch the skin. Today I'll be reconnecting the gas and water lines and will let you know if there are any bumps in the raod.
__________________
Cameron & the Labradors, Kai & Samm
North Vancouver, BC
Live! Life's a banquet and most poor suckers are starving to death! - Mame Dennis
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05-17-2008, 12:01 PM
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#35
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Rivet Master
1966 26' Overlander
Woodstock
, Georgia
Join Date: Feb 2002
Posts: 8,525
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so far the gas line went on ok, but the way it bends thru the floor it blockes the heater from going in far enough. I have about an inch of it sticking out.
I was advised to swap to a flex gas line and that might be just what it takes. The new Atwood has the entry for the line toward the back and up, th eold one had it thru the bottom. Almost there.
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05-18-2008, 09:27 AM
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#36
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2 Rivet Member
2008 31' Classic
Benton Harbor
, Michigan
Join Date: Mar 2007
Posts: 47
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More info on my installation
DEITZ645, Here is a picture before I removed the old heater. The PO had retrofitted a By-Pass valve, so it was a bit jury-rigged (first pic). After I removed that mess I was left with just the cold and hot water lines to connect to (2nd pic). Then I built up a new By-Pass arrangement with a new valve and check valve (3rd pic). This was a mix of Menard's quick connect elbows and Flair-It components (Check Valve, Adapters, and 3-way valve).
Pex Connection : Flair-It Three Way Valves : Three Way Valve 1/2" x 1/2" x 1/2"
As far as the gas line entry point goes, I had the same problem (lower corner for the entry point - pic #4). This could be a little tricky for you. Since I was also replacing the exterior bottom corner wrap below the water heater I was able to reroute the gas line through a new hole in the floor and into the factory hole in the new heater pic #5). Hope this helps.
Doug
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05-18-2008, 09:39 AM
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#37
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2 Rivet Member
2008 31' Classic
Benton Harbor
, Michigan
Join Date: Mar 2007
Posts: 47
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Good progress
cameront120 ... sounds like you're just about there. Here is a picture of the MASSIVE amount of Vulkem that was on the inside that I needed to cut through to remove the old heater
ALANSD, I think you made a good choice to go with the flexible gas line. Hopefully, you can post some pictures of your installation.
Good luck, Doug
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05-18-2008, 10:07 AM
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#38
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Rivet Master
1972 25' Tradewind
North Vancouver
, British Columbia
Join Date: Feb 2006
Posts: 3,421
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Fortunately I didn't have massive amounts of Vulkem to remove. What there was came off fairly easily. What is the flexible gas line you speak of? Is there a material other than copper that can be used? Mind you, I've got the tools for working with copper, so I think I'd better stick with that!
__________________
Cameron & the Labradors, Kai & Samm
North Vancouver, BC
Live! Life's a banquet and most poor suckers are starving to death! - Mame Dennis
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05-18-2008, 11:09 AM
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#39
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Rivet Master
2006 30' Classic S/O
Currently Looking...
Mohrsville
, Pennsylvania
Join Date: Jun 2006
Posts: 1,313
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Exactly What I Needed
Sunset,
Thanks, that is exactly what I needed. I do not think the old bypass valve was a PO alteration, becuase our '87 has the EXACT same bypass valve setup!
The washer in the plastic to brass connection to the right of the bypass valve in picture #1 is what let go in my trailer two weeks ago and SOAKED the compartment.
I will tackle this project in the fall, it will give me something to do in my "spare" time .
__________________
Carl, Elaine & Finn The Beagle
2006 30' Classic W Slide & Limited Package Katarina
2006 GMC 2500 HD 6.6 Turbo Diesel Crew Cab 8' Bed
TAC PA-3
S/OS#042
AIR #14487
NQ3U (was KB3UOM)
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05-18-2008, 12:19 PM
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#40
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Rivet Master
1966 26' Overlander
Woodstock
, Georgia
Join Date: Feb 2002
Posts: 8,525
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I should have rerouted the line, but I ended up cutting the hole in the heater a bit larger and was able to get everything to fit. It is working like a charm right now, and no leaks. The new unit fired up, pilot stayed on and the water was heated to a noticeable point in under 10 minutes.
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