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Old 12-12-2009, 10:12 AM   #15
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JackMac: everyone has the "it takes awhile for the gas to get to the hot water heater burner" issue ... this is a different problem.

Sometimes even after the gas gets there, the Atwood water heater (mine is like this too) just won't go. The gas control solenoid opens, the igniter goes, the gas lights off, but after a few seconds, the "flame proofing" circuitry that is supposed to recognize that the flame is on does not work. The internal logic is no doubt set to shut off the gas if it does not think the flame is on - ya' don't want to keep running the gas until she blows up! - so it shuts down again.

I've tried repositioning the probe, cleaning everything, re-grounding the probe mount, re-plugging in the igniter wire, etc. Intermittent failure again. So, I replaced the igniter also and that seemed to help for a while. I suppose the next step is to replace the whole sealed circuit board unit, but that's $100+. The heater is old enough that I guess it's really time to replace the whole unit ... but if I can find anything other than an Atwood that'll fit that space, I'll buy it!
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Old 12-13-2009, 02:47 AM   #16
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The dealer replaced the two flame sensor modules on mine that are behind the piece of black foam where the 4 wires plug in. I'll get the exact name and part number for you Monday. I know they are a lot less expensive than the sealed module.
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Old 12-13-2009, 06:43 AM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HiHoAgRV View Post
Mine had the same symptoms and I moved the air-adjusting collar slightly to close the vents just a bit. The flame still looks the same, the blow torch noise is quiter and it's work fine ever since.

As best I can tell, mine was still at the original setting from the factory.
I did the same thing. Adjusted it until it quieted down and it works better now.
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Old 12-14-2009, 09:01 AM   #18
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Snaken 49 :

Had some problem and tech guy replaced electronic module - worked ok for a couple of times, then same fault recurred. I replaced the ignitor and everything fine for four months now.

As Wingeezer posted, I also cleaned all the ignitor ground connections.

Our model no is GC 6AA-10E (electronis ignition) and the red light on remote switch in bathroom has never worked. I was told by the above tech guy that this model of water heater doesn't show a red light until 3 flame failures. At which time the red light comes on and the heater goes into lpg lockout.
Does anyone elses water heater work like this. The owner's manual and sticker on heater door states the red light should come on at start-up and go off when a flame is present.

Thanks in advance for any help.

John in the UK
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Old 12-14-2009, 08:40 PM   #19
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John, the manual is correct. The only time our light has gone on more than once was when it was trying to light and we had run out of propane. Then it would go through the 3 strikes and you're out sequence.

If you're out of propane, the best way to get the lines filled again is to start at the stove top and keep trying to light a burner. This will clear a lot of the air out and will make it easier to light the other appliances. Since the others quit after 3 attempts, it is the only way to clear a lot of the air out. I think the manual says to start with the appliance nearest the fuel source, but the stove top works better.

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Old 12-15-2009, 11:21 AM   #20
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Intermittent Flame Problem

I had that same problem. I finally went and sat at the water heater with my multimeter across the gas safety valve and watched the circuit board cut off the 12 needed to keep the valve open.
I replaced the flame sensor then at the urginf of a friend bought a Dinosaur brand igniter board and the plastic cover and installed it myself.
The quality of the circuit board looked like military avionics circuit boards, thick, attention to detail, glass board, excellent solder work and it was not potted. I dug the potting away from the atwater ignitor board and found junk.

Dinosaur Electronics Home. High quality circuit boards for RV appliances.

I have not had a problem since.
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Old 12-15-2009, 02:23 PM   #21
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Gene,

Have I got this right - the GC6AA-10E water heater will try to light 3 times. If not successful, the propane is cut off, red light comes on and a lockout situation occurs. Therefore, there is no indication on the bathroom remote that the heater is switched on and trying to light.

As we have no indication that the water heater is trying to ignite, we listen for the burner roar from bedroom window. If this is correct, the label on our water heater door and owner's manual are for a previous model as they definitely state that the red light should show when the heater is switched on and then go out when the burner ignites.

Beginner,

Thanks for that. They do look quality boards and a three year warranty. For the time being a new flame sensor has cured our problems.

John in the UK
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Old 12-15-2009, 06:05 PM   #22
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John, I haven't looked at the manuals for a while. I'd check the water heater one first because the Airstream owner's manual is not always up to date. But, my experience is that: flip the switch, light comes on, igniter fires, water heater lights, red light goes out, and I can hear the roar of the flame in the bathroom and bedroom (the water heater on ours is located nearby).

The only time we had a problem was early on in our camping when we let the propane run out and the light went on 3 times and then nothing. I don't recall the red light staying on, but that was 2 years ago.

Gene
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Old 12-16-2009, 06:50 AM   #23
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Smile

The Atwood heaters with electronic ignition (switch and red light in bathroom) will show the red light when the switch is set to the on position. You should hear the igniter going outside, gas flowing and the heater light up. Once the flame is on the red light will shut off in the bathroom.

When the water heats up in the tank, if you turn the heater switch off and then turn it on it will NOT light again until the water temp in the tank drops enough for the thermal sensor to say it is okay to relight. Many folks are not aware of this safety feature and think that their heater is not working properly. If you leave the heater switch on, the heater will re-light when the water cools to a certain temp. Hope this helps!
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Old 12-16-2009, 03:54 PM   #24
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Gene :

Great - that's how I thought it should work. I just have to sort the bathroom indicator.

Snaken49 :

Yes - that helps a lot. All the water heaters in outfits we've owned worked this way.

The tech guy has misled us (post 18) - been chasing moonbeams!!!!

John in the UK
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