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Old 05-30-2006, 07:51 AM   #1
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New Take-off items

Hi All,

I have a new Atwood 6 gal DSI water heater and a new Fantastik Fan that I just removed from my CCD. They are NEW (am I repeating myself here?) as I have not used the CCD since delivery (this is about to change, as I'm off touring in the little beast 'till Nov.)

I just posted both items in the classifieds. Just a heads-up if you are in the market for these units for a great price!
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Old 05-30-2006, 08:52 AM   #2
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OK, so my first direct question to the newly anointed Rivet Master. I need to understand your perspective: Why did you remove these seemingly important items?

I have to be honest. Until I saw it was you, I expected it to be a first post from someone who was parting out a stolen trailer or other such tomfoolery.
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Old 05-30-2006, 12:17 PM   #3
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Why is it better?

I just looked at your ad...why did you replace with a Maxxfan? What makes it better? Thanks, Pam
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Old 05-30-2006, 12:22 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pamelake
I just looked at your ad...why did you replace with a Maxxfan? What makes it better? Thanks, Pam

Maxxfans can be run/left open while in transit due to the design of the fan. Fantasitcs, though I prefer them myself, can't be left open/on in transit.
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Old 05-30-2006, 01:08 PM   #5
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Wrong!

Quote:
Originally Posted by Silvertwinkie
Maxxfans can be run/left open and on while in transit due to the design of the fan. Fantasitcs, though I prefer them myself, can't be left open/on in transit.
Fantastics can be left open in transit. I personally checked this by phone with Fantastic. They specify, however, that the cover should be completely raised when doing so. I have towed over 20,000 miles with the covers open and never had a problem.

That said, I now have vent covers installed. I put them on because we leave pets in the trailer. I keep both covers open and the thermostats set so that the fans do not run. If there is an AC failure, the fans will start and save the animals. With the covers, there is minimum cool air loss and the AC keeps the trailer at a comfortable temperature even with the vents open.
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Old 05-30-2006, 01:09 PM   #6
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Fantastic claims that you can drive with them open. They also claim the UPS guy can run over the lids without damaging them.
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Old 05-30-2006, 01:24 PM   #7
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OK,OK!!

To clear up some obvious confusion: These item are perfectly good and function as designed. I am a bit of a perfectionist and being in the business, I see and have access to all of the latest and greatest stuff.

While you CAN leave the Fantastics open, if it rains you can not operate them at reasonable capacity IMHO, especially in a driving rain, with the covers just slightly open. In my last 40' diesel MoHo, I had 3 fantastics but I had installed Maxx-Air vent covers on all of them to be able to work them all in the rain (lots of rain in Oregon, you know!). The covers are polycarbonate (Lexan) and are very tough. It also has the rain sensor to close automatically if it DOES rain, but I want control of that function.

I also love taking long, hot showers after working 12+ hour days on the road. A 6 gal. water heater just doesn't provide me with 20-30 minutes of continual hot water for my theraputic respites. I also replaced the 10 gal. gas/electric unit on my previous MoHo with the same Precision Temp RV-500 tankless model......so why not on my trailer too? BTW, awesome unit!!!

Overkill, maybe! But that's just how I do things.....I guess. Any other questions/comments will be gladly entertained by the author!
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Old 05-30-2006, 02:42 PM   #8
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Glad to hear that the Fantastics can stay open in transit and that a UPS truck could run over the dome with no ill effects.....I suppose I'll never test either on purpose.

Lew, I don't suppose the tankless unit fits into the same spot as the old water heater did? What mods did you have to do, if any to keep the stock looking appearence on the outside?
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Old 05-30-2006, 07:31 PM   #9
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Rv-500

It is not an easy mod to do on an Airstream! If you have a Suburban 10 gallon heater, it is a direct replacement! If not, you need to cut the inner andouter skins about 2" to acommodate the higher RV-500. The flanges on the unit are very wide and will cover up the wide gap on either side (the Atwood 6 gal. is wider and shorter than the RV-500). The area was a bit flexible and being the King of overbuilding, I riveted in 2 pieces if 1/8" X 4" aluminum stock to creat a perfect size hole. Used almost a tube of Sikflex sealing it in too. There is a kit made by Suburban that will convert an opening for an ATwood 10gal. to the size of a Suburban, but I wanted to go custom on this one.

After the hole is the proper size, it's a snap to replace. You just connect the hot/cold water lines (be careful here, the hot is at the BOTTOM of the RV-500) and add the 12VDC and you're done! Of course, I had to extend the LP line and the water lines, but that is everyday stuff for me. Of course, I had to remove the mattress and platform to get access to the heater.

Not a hard install, just a full day with being extra careful about marking and cutting. Don't want any nasty holes you can't hide.....and you can't hide anything in a 'Stream!!!! The door is brushed stainless and looks WAY better than the old grey painted one from Atwood! You can't tell when you look at it unless you really look hard and notice the taller opening. I'll try to get a shot tomorrow!
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Old 05-30-2006, 07:48 PM   #10
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Why isn't the precision Temp water heater installed in RV's or even offered as an an option?
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Old 05-30-2006, 10:02 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Craftsman
Why isn't the precision Temp water heater installed in RV's or even offered as an an option?
Good Question.

I would say that for the price ($1000), most OEM's won't go near it due to the high cost. They buy the regular models in such quantities that they are paying less than a third of suggested retail. In the high-line models like the $500,000 and up crowd, they are trending to go all electric and don't even have propane tanks any more. They use diesel fired hydronic heating/hot water systems, huge battery banks, 20KW diesel generators and 450 amp alternators with dual 3000 watt inverters. Talk about power!! And don't forget the domestic fridges, stoves and washer/dryers. This crowd does not know the meaning of 'camping' or 'roughing it'!

They don't need no stinkin' propane!!! .....so the lowly RV-500 is relegated to the aftermarket crowd who just want a little more hot water and like its' efficiency and performance. Plus, the US market is a long way from embracing on-demand water heaters in general. I've been using them for domestic hot water for almost 10 years, so I am totally familiar with their operation. Still, when you can go to Home Depot and get a standard 50 gallon water heater for $200 that will last 4-8 years depending on your water conditions, why would you spend $1000+ for a tankless model, even though it will pay for itself in lower energy costs in about 3 years and will last 20+ years to boot?
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Old 05-30-2006, 10:52 PM   #12
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Thanks Lew. Looks like I'm stickin with my 6 gal heater.

...but at some point will upgrade the electrical to the 75amp converter and get some capacitors for the sound system. Made the mistake of touching the back of the stereo after a few hours of play (while I was working on installing the sub and final testing)....does that thing get HOT! Maybe I should run a hose along the back of the stereo....plenty of heat from that for some added hot water!
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Old 05-31-2006, 10:35 AM   #13
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I'm kind of worried about getting run over by UPS trucks. Those guys always seemed so nice, too.
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Old 05-31-2006, 11:07 AM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pmclemore
I'm kind of worried about getting run over by UPS trucks. Those guys always seemed so nice, too.
Just wear a Fantastic vent cover on you head. I hear they can take the abuse from UPS.
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