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Old 05-12-2011, 11:13 PM   #1
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2011 27 FB International
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New AS Water way too hot!

we are in our second night in our new 27FB. I have been troubleshooting problems all day. Some I can fix, some I can't.

One that is puzzling me is the Atwood water heater. It's the automatic pilot one, and there doesn't seem to be any adjustment knob for water temp. No mention in the manual, either. Problem is that the water is way too hot. It's scalding hot. I had to turn the thing off. Someone could get seriously burned by this water. And I am worried about the plumbing melting.

Anyone know anything about this? the Atwood manual has some info on the previous ones, that have knobs to adjust water temp. There doesn't appear to be any moving parts in this one.

It's going to have to go to a dealer for the other problems, but maybe if I could at least get the water heater to work right it would be an improvement.
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Old 05-12-2011, 11:25 PM   #2
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Gringo

I don't know if there is an adjustment or not for water temperature. Either way, it should shut off by itself when it gets to some preset temperature. Sounds like this function is not working, so manually turning it off may be your only option untill the dealer takes a look at it. I would probably call the Atwood factory. There is no excuse for not having the proper owners manual for the water heater also.

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Old 05-12-2011, 11:29 PM   #3
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I installed a new water heater in our AS recently, and noticed the same thing - water is HOT!

We had to caution our gang to leave the mixing faucet toward the 'middle' of its range to avoid a hot water surprise!

I believe the water is kept at a higher temp primarily for using the shower - with only a 6 gallon heater, the hotter temp of the water lasts longer as you only need a small amount to mix with the cold...

Also, the 6 gal tank recovers quickly, and doesn't use as much energy to keep heated...

The actual temp of the heated water should be noted in your Mfg's info so you can check the output of yours...

Sure love that 27FB model - it's on our bucket list of fun 'toys' to acquire someday...
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Old 05-12-2011, 11:29 PM   #4
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Gringo,

Is this what you need? http://www.atwoodmobile.com/manuals/...2011.19.07.pdf

Bill
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Old 05-13-2011, 06:31 AM   #5
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The Atwood DSI water heater has a temp sensor, so there's no adjustment. The sensor is behind the little foam pad with the wires sticking out of it near the circuit board. You can have your Airstream dealer check the temp when you bring it in for the other little items that need attention, to make sure it is what it should be.
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Old 05-13-2011, 06:58 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gringo View Post
we are in our second night in our new 27FB. I have been troubleshooting problems all day. Some I can fix, some I can't.

One that is puzzling me is the Atwood water heater. It's the automatic pilot one, and there doesn't seem to be any adjustment knob for water temp. No mention in the manual, either. Problem is that the water is way too hot. It's scalding hot. I had to turn the thing off. Someone could get seriously burned by this water. And I am worried about the plumbing melting.

Anyone know anything about this? the Atwood manual has some info on the previous ones, that have knobs to adjust water temp. There doesn't appear to be any moving parts in this one.

It's going to have to go to a dealer for the other problems, but maybe if I could at least get the water heater to work right it would be an improvement.
There are 2 thermostats available for that unit: 130*F and 140*F. These control the water temps in the tank and the duration of the LP or 120VAC heating cycle.

You should do one of 2 things:

1. have the thermostat changed for the lower temp model...or.......
2. add more cold water into the mix at the faucet.

The second would be my choice!
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Old 05-13-2011, 07:40 AM   #7
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You guys are great. I owe you all a beer. Or a root beer. Rum. Whatever you like.

I read your responses at dawn today, after a moderately sleepless night of worry. Did you notice that first post was at 12:23 AM today? midnight-thirty. This is after our first drive in an unfamiliar, rented truck, pulling our brand new baby from Houston to Dallas, and then getting set up for the first time in an RV park. Yesterday we ran through an incredible line of bad, bad weather, with 18 wheelers blowing by us and visibility down. Tornado and severe weather alerts. Lightning. It was like night at noon. Except for the blinding flashes and howling cross wind and driving rain that lowered visibility to about fifty yards.... Well anyhow.. good training for a young seaman, right?

at dawn today I read your responses. Will leave the heater alone til I can talk to a dealer, no big deal. I think it's dangerously hot. I found a schematic and see that it does have a pre-set thermostat. It does shut off automatically. Bumping that handle in the shower is good for the reflexes. The quick and the red.

First thing, of course, I cranked off the stabilizers one by one, to see if it made any difference. I didn't think I cranked them THAT hard, but then I am a big guy. backing off the front ones didn't make a difference, but backing off the one right by the rear door corner....I saw the door frame un-torque immediately. It only took about one crank revolution. And the door closes normally again. That one was baffling. Now I understand. Hallelujah.

And I did pull the trailer up onto some blocks on the low side last night. Those orange plastic things that CW sells. I have four. I stacked them two and two and have them under the low side wheels. I guess that one corner is sensitive to over cranking. Makes sense, it's right under the edge of the door frame.

OH, and the bubble level on the electric jack...well...it IS a level and not a light. The light is pretty obvious. And the light works. After I discovered that the fuse holder was pulled apart. A dry level is not so obvious at first glance and it's a defect. I'll pick up a replacement next time I am at a dealer. Meanwhile I brought along a little torpedo level with a magnetic strip and it works fine on the frame.

By the way, the water heater just cycled on again, although we have yet to use any this morning. Is that normal? It's scaldingly hot.

SO now we are sitting here enjoying the sunrise, with our first cups of coffee in our new 27FB, and we absolutely love this thing. I don't want to go home.

We might just sit this Friday the 13th out today.
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Old 05-13-2011, 08:14 AM   #8
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Water to hot

You can call Atwood mobile products at 1-800=548=8759. I have called them many times and they ae very friendly and helpfull. Just have the model and serial number of the product you are going to ask the question about.
Good luck on the new trailer. Happy Camping
Regards, nm1oqrz
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Old 05-13-2011, 08:15 AM   #9
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I have a new Atwood in my 68 Trade Wind. The water is HOT. No adjustment.
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Old 05-21-2011, 06:13 AM   #10
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Had the same hot water concern...

What worked for me....When I installed the "low" temp stat, (which is a surface contact unit, and only sense's the outside tank temp), I sanded both the surface of the tank and the contact point of the thermostat. Still kinda' hot, but not scalding.

Hope this helps....

Sweet Streams...
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Old 05-21-2011, 06:17 AM   #11
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Thanks for the tip. I'll take a look at that the next time I have some time with our AS. I'm back on de island now, mon....
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Old 05-21-2011, 08:48 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ROBERT CROSS View Post
Had the same hot water concern...

What worked for me....When I installed the "low" temp stat, (which is a surface contact unit, and only sense's the outside tank temp), I sanded both the surface of the tank and the contact point of the thermostat. Still kinda' hot, but not scalding.

Hope this helps....

Sweet Streams...
Quote:
Originally Posted by Gringo View Post
Thanks for the tip. I'll take a look at that the next time I have some time with our AS. I'm back on de island now, mon....
I haven't tried this, but I don't see what it would hurt. Worst-case, it won't help. Try a small dab of dielectric grease where the sensor touches the tank, after the tank gets cleaned.
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Old 05-21-2011, 09:06 AM   #13
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Originally Posted by lewster View Post
There are 2 thermostats available for that unit: 130F and 140F. These control the water temps in the tank and the duration of the LP or 120VAC heating cycle.

You should do one of 2 things:

1. have the thermostat changed for the lower temp model...or.......
2. add more cold water into the mix at the faucet.

The second would be my choice!
I worked for 3 decades with a thermoplastic product with an ideal operating temperature of 142 F. We would use a 145 water bath. Your calloused fingers are less sensitive than other skin on your body and are a good thermometer for this range. Pull some of your hot water into a warmed 12-16 oz container. Stick a couple digits halfway into the water and start counting. At 145 you'd really want to be pulling your fingers out before you make it to 5 seconds. It's significantly hotter than that if you can't make it to 2 seconds. It's cooler than that if you can leave 'em in 5 seconds and more.

The working principle here is that protein "denatures" above 150; ie, cooks. Yes, you can scald yourself at 145 but we're not selling coffee at McDonalds. I like the hot hot water. It helps extend what I can do with the measly 6 gallons in my cold water heater.
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Old 05-21-2011, 09:35 AM   #14
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its not the calloused hands that turn red and hurt from contact with the water. It's the naked butt, and other similarly sensitive areas.
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