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Old 06-29-2011, 08:01 AM   #29
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there is a lot of temperature info here:

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Old 06-29-2011, 08:15 AM   #30
one of those
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115 deg. in patient accessible places, 140 deg. max in professional situations.

I still don't want 140 degrees (60 C) showering down on my tender untanned parts when my shoulder hits that mixing valve.

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Old 06-29-2011, 09:25 AM   #31
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Atwood Adjustable T-Stat 93105
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Old 06-29-2011, 10:59 AM   #32

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Originally Posted by tpi View Post
Nice find tpi!!!


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but Im the Husband, so we went to Cleveland. 😂

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Old 06-29-2011, 11:14 AM   #33
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I do not think that will work with the new gas-electric model. I put one of those on my old gas only heater last year. wish I could move it to the new one, but the place for mounting one of those is not on the heater any more. I think maybe the pilot light model comes with an adjustable stat of some sort, but the DSI model does not appear to have one and no place for the thermostat shown in the picture.
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Old 06-29-2011, 12:41 PM   #34
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easy adjustment

If your water heater is working within it's normal ranges try adjusting the shower valve. I'm not sure which type faucet came in your trailer, but most shower valves made these days have an anti-scald adjustment made into them. Look at the manual and manufacturer's data sheet to see if your's does.
If it does, it's a simple adjustment. You have to remove the handle from the faucet, remove the escutcheon trim, then adjust the valve limiter to where the max hot water temp suits you (I like 120F max as mandated by building code). I use a cooking thermometer to check while it is flowing. Easy peasy. No more pink behind when you move around in the shower. I'm a big guy too, head touches the top, bottom & arms touch the sides when I move around. DW says it sound like I am wrestling someone in the shower.

I have done this adjustment on a few shower valves myself. (I'm a retired/part time general contractor) If you get this adjusted correctly, the water will still be hot at the sink faucets and the shower's hot water supply will be ample enough for two showers in a row, safely.

I hear there is a tropical storm in the gulf today. Headed inland soon?
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Old 07-14-2012, 11:54 AM   #35
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Originally Posted by lewster View Post
There are 2 thermostats available for that unit: 130*F and 140*F. These control the water temps in the tank and the duration of the LP or 120VAC heating cycle.

You should do one of 2 things:

1. have the thermostat changed for the lower temp model...or.......
2. add more cold water into the mix at the faucet.

The second would be my choice!
I have the opposite problem with my Atwood on my 2011 International 25FB. Water heater fires and cycles, but it never gets more than tepid, too cool for dishes or showering! Are the thermostats something I can order and replace myself, or do I have to have a dealer do it?
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Old 07-14-2012, 03:38 PM   #36
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Always work with power off...

On the Atwood water heaters I've touched (6 gal DSI), there are 2 thermostats behind a black foam rubber cover more or less in the center of the water heater as seen with the front door open. Make a note of which wire goes where. They are typically held in contact with the actual tank surface with a spring and a clip. One thermostat shuts down the gas if the water temp gets too high and functions as a safety backup for the other that is typically set to a temp close to 135F. They may look similar but the markings on each will reveal its temp setting. These are for gas operation.

For electric if so equipped, there are a similar pair of thermostats on the back side of the tank behind the box where the 110v connection is made. A bit more effort is needed to get to these in most configurations.

If you have a dual mode water heater, the first question is to determine if the water temperature is incorrect in gas or electric mode to decide on which pair of thermostats to inspect..

It the water temp is too high, it could be a faulty thermostat, most likely the primary as the safety is set higher. But it could be that the thermostat is not making good contact with the tank surface and simply positioning it correctly will fix the problem.

If the water temp is too low this could be either thermostat, as either one will shut off the heat. The 1st thing I would check for low hot water temp is the bypass valves. Some water heaters have a 3 valve arrangement in the form of the letter H. If the middle valve was left open, it will mix cold water with the hot water at the output providing warm water. This is an easy fix and is normally noticed after bringing the trailer out of its winter hibernation.
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Old 07-14-2012, 04:00 PM   #37
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Sounds like a job for IR thermometer, HOT would be anything over 110 but by using thermometer you will know exactly where you stand.

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