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Old 05-26-2005, 09:18 PM   #1
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Need to replace water heater...

The old Bowen is leaking, after much repair to the copper line leaks in front of it I find that out. The new Atwoods look like they are flat on the back from pictures I have seen on the internet, I need room for the pipes that go through the floor as they do behind the present one which is indented at the top and bottom. There is no room for a flat backed heater, anyone know if the new heaters are really flat backed or are slanted at the top and bottom like my present one. I will try to attach a pic, it didn't work the first time. The present heater is a G6A2.
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Old 05-27-2005, 12:06 AM   #2
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I believe its more rounded than square.

Here is a picture of mine after I was finished. I also redid all the plumbing.



I did have some trouble getting the gas line hooked up and the water lines from leaking. I ended up going with flex lines for the water connections and that has held up well.

You can read all about my water heater replacement here.

Good luck!
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Old 05-27-2005, 07:28 AM   #3
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The new 10 gal. Atwood tank is actually a bottle. The Styrofoam is what makes the back panel look flat.

I just replaced ours. I like the idea of the flex lines. What lengths do they come in?

I did use white flex line to the toilet from the cold inlet line so that I wouldn't have to take everything apart to fix a leak again. Just snake the line through and replace.

Using the flex line over the top of the water heater (where my old lines run) would make things fit better. That is if I can get long enough lines.

You may not have a 10 (by the looks of the model number and the looks of SafariTim's picture. I'm still think Tim is right on...that it is a bottle, squared off with Styrofoam.
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Old 05-27-2005, 07:30 AM   #4
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Thanks Tim! Looks like from your pictures I'm OK, other than the gas line. The connections appear to be in the same place, but maybe a little more to the right than the originals. I guess I'll go to campyworld and pick one up today.
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Old 05-27-2005, 07:48 AM   #5
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I am assuming if water is dripping from the heater box, it is busted.
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Old 05-27-2005, 11:03 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sovereignrwe
The new 10 gal. Atwood tank is actually a bottle. The Styrofoam is what makes the back panel look flat.

I just replaced ours. I like the idea of the flex lines. What lengths do they come in?

.
Those flex water lines come in 12", 18" and 24". You should find one that meets your needs.

I also used these flex lines on the toilet connection, both sinks, and the input and output of the water pump.

As far as the gas line not lining up. The newer heaters have a hole for the gas line to enter the rear of the heater instead of through the bottom. I lined it all up and drilled a corresponding hole in the bottom of mine. This is so I would not have to re-route the gas plumbing. Be sure to keep that heavy duty hose piece over the line to protect it.

Wrestling with the copper tubing was hard for me because I have not worked with it before. I ended up borrowing a flairing tool, pipe cutters and benders to get it done. I would not go with a gas flex line because what I could determine they would not hold up to the vibration of the trailer.

Good luck with your installation.
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Old 05-27-2005, 01:13 PM   #7
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I too, drilled a whole in the floor of the "face" of the water heater to leave the gas line in place. I replaced the final section of the gas line running into the water heater with new flares (my first time for that too).

If I use the flex lines for in and out lines of the water heater, it will resolve some of the problems I have with the copper lines. I had hoped to use the lines as they were, but the new water heater connections were just enough different that while I could get them to connect without modification, they don't fit well in the cabinet.
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Old 05-27-2005, 05:10 PM   #8
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Picked up the new heater this morning and spent the rest of the day all over town looking for a plastic 1/2" tread x 5/8" flare 90 degree elbow; not to be found. This is what I ended up with....should work....looks to be an interesting weekend......
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Old 05-27-2005, 07:03 PM   #9
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How far should you turn a plastic fitting into metal after it is hand tight?
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Old 05-27-2005, 08:02 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hotlead
How far should you turn a plastic fitting into metal after it is hand tight?
Not too much Does that help?

I know the flex hoses I used say 1/4 turn after hand tight.

Just make sure you use teflon tape on the water pipe thread connections. Nothing on gas or water flare connections.
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Old 05-29-2005, 12:04 AM   #11
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Not a bad day, the old unit came out and the new one slid right in. The original tank elbow fittings were proving a little to tight a fit for me to cut and bend copper, and to avoid a new leak at a sweat joint so I decided to go flex. First test showed drips on the plastic nipples at the tank, they were hand tight plus two turns with teflon paste. I cranked them on in about 3 more turns each (getting worried about stripping) and it sealed. I used a couple of small sheet metal screws to attach the old screen to the exhaust manifold (the new screen is too large for my old stainless door).

Tomorrow carpet ............
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