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Old 10-18-2017, 05:51 PM   #1
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LP side of Atwood inop

I know there have other posts similar to this but I’m looking for a way to isolate issue while on the road. Elec side works ok. Lp does not start and gives the red light after several try’s. There is small of gas when it try’s to start, there is a click like a relay but I don’t see any spark. Other posts seem to indicate the circuit board but is there anything else I should try? I have swapped lp tanks to a full tank and met similar results after several try’s.
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Old 10-18-2017, 05:58 PM   #2
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A common problem is spider nests or dirt dauber nests in the burner tube. You could pull it and check it/clean it out. You should be able to see the electrode to determine if it is sparking. I'm assuming you have gas at the stove. Clearing the line of air could take a long time with just the fridge.

I think it is just one or two screws to pull the burner tube. You may have to remove a cover to get to it. Do you have the manual for the fridge? If not you can download it.

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Old 10-19-2017, 06:55 AM   #3
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Ok, I posted last night after a few and between that and my iPad’s desire to correct spelling it came out kinda screwy. Title should have said, lp side of Atwood WH inop. I’ll check for bugs but I can see igniter and it’s not sparking.
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Old 10-19-2017, 06:59 AM   #4
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Do the other LP appliances work? Cooktop range, furnace, etc.. LP regulator could be bad.

I would disconnect and re-connect all wiring at the water heater. Could be corrosion or loose connection.

Or circuit board as you mentioned. 12-volt circuit breaker OK?

How about the thermal fuse at the water heater. Those go bad too:

https://www.google.com/search?q=ther...=airforums.com

Check the following post on the 20-footer thread and later posts FYI. Steve had to replace his regulator as I recall, and there is an Amazon link later for the thermal overload cutoff fuse. Going out now back in a couple of hours.

Good luck,

Peter

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Originally Posted by centennialman View Post
Good Morning 20 Footer Folks,

You might remember my posts over the July 4th weekend when I was having issues with the water heater. The temporary fix was to remove the inline fuse and it worked for that particular trip. I figured I would take the Airstream in for repairs/warranty work at the end of summer when the crowds die down and you can, hopefully, get better attention from our local dealer.

This weekend I went camping and the problem got worse. I couldn't get good gas pressure to the stove, water heater etc.... The refrigerator worked fine on gas all weekend but when I turned on the water heater or stove the pressure was very low. I had a biolite stove, so cooked outside for the weekend. I checked the regulator by following instructions on turning off the bottles, disconnecting the hoses, re-connecting and slowly opening the valves to the hoses to reset the regulator. I bled the lines by turning on the stove lines (with adequate ventilation) etc..... and still had the same challenge.

Do you think I need a new regulator or????

Thanks for any advice you have.
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Old 10-19-2017, 05:52 PM   #5
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Does the thermal fuse control both the elec and the lp operation? If so it’s ok. If I hear a click when spark for lp is called for but no spark, is circuit board ok? I’ll check this stuff when we can get somewhere for a couple of days.
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Old 10-19-2017, 06:15 PM   #6
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I just had a weird one with my furnace. The igniter developed a high resistance short, about 200,000 ohms. It leaked off enough current that it wouldn't make a spark. I bought a control board, thinking that was the problem. It came in bad, but I decided to do some examination of the burner because I couldn't smell gas. In the process I checked the igniter and thought the 200,000 ohms was not right. I tried the new board direct to ground and it was only making a very weak spark. I bought a new igniter locally and hooked it up with my old board and the furnace worked.

If you have access to a multimeter, check your igniter. It should show infinite resistance, open circuit. You could also examine the wire from the board to the igniter to make sue it isn't frayed and shorting somewhere.

The click you are hearing is, I think, a relay that is enabling the spark circuit. If you are hearing multiple clicks when it should be sparking, you may have an arc somewhere along the line from the board to the igniter or on the board itself.

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Old 10-19-2017, 06:28 PM   #7
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Thx. I have two wonderful meters, unfortunately at home. No multiple clicks and spark wire looks new. I do have noticeable gas present when trying to start, not mine, lol. Tomorrow we should get to Sturbridge and may have time to ts
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Old 10-19-2017, 07:07 PM   #8
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Disconnect the wire from the igniter and tape it so it is 1/8" or so away from some grounded metal. Turn on the heater and see if you get a spark. If so, electrode is likely the problem, if not, control board.

Al
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Old 10-20-2017, 06:48 AM   #9
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Have fun at Sturbridge, one of our favorite stops. Sorry can't answer your detailed questions, but good luck with the trouble shooting.

Peter
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Old 10-20-2017, 07:35 AM   #10
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water heater

The click you here may be the gas valve solenoid opening, as you say you smell gas. You should here the ignitor sparking multiple times if it is working. Solenoid only clicks once.
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Old 10-20-2017, 02:34 PM   #11
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Ok, I got in campsite a little early and had a better chance to look things over. There are no obstructions in gas tube. Started to check spark from circuit board with a jumper, but noticed a fuse almost hidden on board. Pulled it and it was blown. Went to camp store and of course, they didn’t have a 2A fuse. Tomorrow should be a short day and I’ll look for a couple of fuses. If it blowed again, maybe bad board? If not I’ll press on and how it lasts.
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Old 10-21-2017, 07:00 AM   #12
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The saga continues. Last night we had electric side hot water. I turned off switch after showers. This morning turned on switch waited an hour and no hot water. I’ll check the connections I messed with yesterday and cb but does anyone know what the 2A fuse on the circuit board controls power to? It looks like a 12V fuse so don’t know if it is only for lp side or both. I know 12V is used for the AC side too, but don’t know if this is part of that. Manual doesn’t even show fuse but does talk about it, not in detail
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Old 10-21-2017, 11:49 AM   #13
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Have you checked the mfg. manual for the water heater, which came with your AS briefcase, separate from the owner's manual? Usually they have an electrical schematic in the back of their operating/installation manuals. Maybe you are already referring to this mfg. manual?

What model Atwood heater do you have?

How do you like Sturbridge, and what campground are you staying in, for our future information?

Thanks,

Peter
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Old 10-22-2017, 05:53 AM   #14
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Didn’t have much time at Sturbridge, stayed at yogi bear campground. Not impressed. On top of this our dog got very sick so that changed things a bit. Did have time to look closer. Pulled the four connectors off and reattached, that is all but one, which broke off trying to unplug. In route to Boston we stopped at an RV shop and I picked up fuses. Later after taking dog to emergency care vet we stopped at autozone and I picked up a cheap meter and a few connectors to temp fix the broken one. That afternoon I was able to check wiring, gas valve etc and all checked ok, so I fixed connector, put in fuse and turned on electric side. It works! Didn’t try lp maybe later. It was nice having a hot shower last night in the AS. I think problems stem from pressure relief valve that has leaked intermittently since new. Yes I’ve done the head procedure in the manual a few times. I’ll look at changing out valve when we get home.
I was using manufacturer manual. It’s an Atwood cg model ge something or nother. Probably a ge9ext. Not at WH right now.
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Old 10-22-2017, 05:55 AM   #15
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Atwood XT, not cg.
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Old 10-22-2017, 06:16 AM   #16
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Thanks for the update. Hot showers are great!

Yes, water leaking down on things is likely part of the problem. You probably have some [Florida etc.] hard water mineral deposits inside the PRV IMO. Exercising it in place [w/o water pressure] might help. Most hardware stores carry them. A new valve and Teflon tape is all you need for a simple swap.

Hope the dog is doing better.

Safe travels!

Peter
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Old 10-22-2017, 06:30 AM   #17
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Thx, I should have already done it. I’m certainly going to change it when we get home.
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Old 10-30-2017, 09:07 PM   #18
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LP side of Atwood inop

I am dealing with the same issue on my 2017 International. They must use the same Atwood GE 9ext. I have the exact problem. I went ahead and bought a new CB - it did not fix the problem. I have ordered a new igniter so I'll see if that fixes it. I can light it manually. I did that for a week when dry camping in Asheville.
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Old 10-31-2017, 05:13 AM   #19
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We’re not back home yet, but think I had convinced myself that the board is bad. I have gas but no spark. Gas valve checks good ohm-wise, I smell gas while trying to light, but nothing from igniter. I need to pull igniter out when I get someplace and have time, and it’s warmer. But it looks new from its installed position. All devices at WH checked good. It’s either board or igniter in my simple mind. I tried putting a jumper on board at igniter port and other end making a small gap to rule out the igniter but may not have got a good test, may try again. What board pn did you get? Looks like mine is a 93851, I believe, with the two connectors.
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Old 11-01-2017, 06:11 PM   #20
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Check VaTravelers' thread, he was able to light the gas manually, I assume while someone else turned on the switch inside.

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If the thing doesn't light off in 4 or 5 secs it shuts down the gas flow. It isn't just flowing gas into an unlighted heater. I'm replacing the igniter tomorrow. If that doesn't fix it I'll find time to take it in. In another post someone said they had a similar issue that by cycling between the electric heater and the propane side it eventually ignited. This tells me the CB has an issue. It is possible the replacement board I ordered is also defective.
Also per his earlier post here:
Quote:
Originally Posted by VaTravelers View Post
. . .
I can light it manually.
. . .

If you can light yours manually like this, it may suggest that the control board is OK?

Good luck,

Peter
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