Low Hot Water Flow

[762x51]

Good Morning Folks,

I'm heading for Harris Teeter in a few minutes to get 6 gallons of distilled vinegar to hopefully remove what ever is causing the blockage in the heater. I'm going to open the drains before I leave so the tank is empty when I get back.

In reading the cleaning instructions on Atwood's site, they say "Cycle" the heater after filling with vinegar. Are they suggesting that you start the burner and heat the vinegar?

I hope one of you folks is up and about this early -

Orin

[762x51]

Well guys, there is no joy in Mudville this afternoon.

I filled the tank with 3.5 gallons of vinegar (all I could get in through the pop-off valve) and then another couple of gallons of fresh water. I started the heater and let it come up to temperature then let it sit for a little over 6 hours.

I drained the heater then reverse flushed the hot water lines again. After recharging the system I tried the hot water side and there was no change in the flow rate.

I guess the only step now is to remove the heater to see just what's causing the restriction. It will have to wait until we come back from our upcoming trip and at least there is sufficient flow for showers, just not what I'd like to see.

Orin

[Siegmann]

It sounds like you did not use the vinegar to soak/flush the lines and fittings downstream of the water heater. Before removing the heater, I sure would try that (more vinegar!)

[762x51]

Originally Posted by Siegmann

It sounds like you did not use the vinegar to soak/flush the lines and fittings downstream of the water heater. Before removing the heater, I sure would try that (more vinegar!)

Actually I did - When I drained the system prior to starting the vinegar fill, I left the heater bypass valves open and vinegar filled the supply lines and part of the bypass. Some may have gone into the discharge line also. Anyway, the fill line was full for about 30 minutes until I reconnected the city water line to finish filling the tank so I could heat the solution that was in the tank. Once the tank was hot, I opened the drain valve so some of the solution would refill the supply side and before that I had opened the sink faucet so some solution would fill the discharge line.

This is an estimate but the vinegar/water solution was in the neighborhood of 70% vinegar and 30% water.

At this point the only thing left to try - with vinegar - is to fill the hot water system from one of the faucets so the hot water side is completely filled with vinegar. I can try that tomorrow AM and if it doesn't work then I'll just pull the heater at a later date.

Orin

[streaminwild]

I fixed mine today, same problems as you have. You should have good pressure when heater valves are closed and bypass is open. One or both heater valves has a washer stuck on the seat. Turn off heater. Drain water heater. Place small towel under valves. Take pliers or small crescent wrench remove jamb nut. Remove valve stem in unscrewing fashion. Notice no rubber washer on button of stem. Use paper clip or small screw driver and fish out washer. Place washer on stem. I heated a flat screw driver warm and melt the plastic button against washer.This created more resistance to keep washer on. Assemble and wala. This winter, I will not tighten heater valves as much. Hope this helps.

[762x51]

@streaminwild

Thanks for the tip as that appears to be the problem with my system.

I removed the three valve stems and found the seat to be stuck in the valve body just as you found. I used a super glue to re-attach the seat to the stem and will re-install them tomorrow afternoon. The glue takes 24 hours for total cure.

Here are photos of what I found, the fix, and a link to a valve that I'll be replacing these cheap Airstream supplied valves with. Using these cheap valves on their trailers is a silly decision. The savings were minimal over a quality ball valve.

The Problem:


The Fix:


The long term fix will be a valve similar to this one. A quick internet search has found them for $3.99. I had bought a PEX tool to modify the piping a couple of years ago so I have the tools to make the modification.

Shop Apollo 1/2-in Dia Brass PEX Ball Valve Crimp Fitting at Lowes.com

[762x51]

@streaminwild

Your suggestion solved the problem - THANKS!!!!!

I now have equal hot and cold water flow.

Orin

[streaminwild]

Orin, Your pictures are worth a thousand words. Great job with close-ups which reminds me......I need to make an appointment with my dentist. Gregg

[762x51]

Originally Posted by streaminwild

Orin, Your pictures are worth a thousand words. Great job with close-ups which reminds me......I need to make an appointment with my dentist. Gregg

Hope he uses something a little better than the scribe in the photo..

By the way - If someone does this repair only use one drop of glue and put the rubber washer on the valve stem "tit" with a twisting motion to spread the glue.

[Hankster]

Thanks for your persistence with this problem and finally getting to the fix. Had the same problem this weekend with my 97 Safari and a $1 tube of superglue did the trick.

[762x51]

Originally Posted by caseypris

Thanks for your persistence with this problem and finally getting to the fix. Had the same problem this weekend with my 97 Safari and a $1 tube of superglue did the trick.

Glad that worked for you and if you read the whole thread you'd see all the hoops I jumped through to finally get to the problem. @streaminwild made the suggestion that I followed to get to the bottom of the problem. Using super glue was the only modification to his suggestion that I came up with.

[streaminwild]

The comradery here is 2nd to none. We all suggest ideas that hopefully, helps someone down the line. I like the phrase ''passing it forward''. Weather it's paying for a police officer's, military personnel, or homeless persons meal anonymously. Or rewarding acts of kindness that you rarely see in the city. This hobby gives me the most pleasure in life. Thankyou caseypris for thanking us. You made our day