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Old 03-03-2011, 02:28 PM   #15
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I haven't heard of them before, but if this last attempt doesn't work and it can't be welded, I'll keep that in mind, thanks!

I've currently got a 10 gallon heater in there and would like to get an exact replacement to minimize any modifications that might crop up.

I don't mind the manual lighting required. I usually leave it running anyway.

Doug
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Old 03-03-2011, 03:00 PM   #16
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Is it aluminum?
Should be able to weld, but must be super clean
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Old 03-03-2011, 05:06 PM   #17
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Originally Posted by pwhittle View Post
Have you tried Palamino RV? I thought water heaters cost about what you indicated but I was pleasantly surprised by what I paid for a 6 gal Atwood with electronic ignition.

Paul
How much was it if you don't mind my asking? I see them on ebay (new) for as little as $275. Can Palomino sell for less than that?
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Old 03-28-2011, 10:46 AM   #18
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Leaky Tank - get it welded.

I too have welded many leaking hot water tanks. When we lived in New England, burst tanks were a common occurrence every spring. You can just hammer the tank back into some semblance of where it was and weld it using a TIG welder. If you're not a welder, don't try it yourself. It does take some practice to learn how to weld aluminum. And as long as it doesn't freeze up again, you'll be fine.

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Old 03-29-2011, 03:14 PM   #19
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1973 31' Sovereign
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Thanks all for your input and ideas. I have one last shot to try with the JB weld. My assessment is that it's too thin to withstand the water pressure under heat. I used a steel can lid to reinforce one section and that worked great, but it gave out in another area where the aluminum weld has failed. If that doesn't work, I think I'm going to order a new unit. I'm not sure I could remove enough of the JB weld down in the crack to make the weld trustworthy. I'll keep you posted.
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Old 03-29-2011, 04:28 PM   #20
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Is it worth the risk?
If JB leaks after a few days...imagine the damage to floor etc.
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Old 03-29-2011, 06:08 PM   #21
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Its wierd to me that everyone is into JB Weld instead of Marine Tex. Must be because it is more common. Is JB Weld safer for food-grade water sources than Marine Tex or something? If not Marine Tex is a superior product to JB Weld in my experience. I have repaired radiators, engine blocks and more with Marine Tex. Marine Tex will fix almost anything properly applied and is as easy to work with as JB Weld.

If Marine Tex wont fix it, it needs to be welded. I order Marine Tex from West Marine.
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Old 04-03-2011, 05:07 PM   #22
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Thanks all for your input and ideas. I have one last shot to try with the JB weld. My assessment is that it's too thin to withstand the water pressure under heat. I used a steel can lid to reinforce one section and that worked great, but it gave out in another area where the aluminum weld has failed. If that doesn't work, I think I'm going to order a new unit. I'm not sure I could remove enough of the JB weld down in the crack to make the weld trustworthy. I'll keep you posted.
A 38 year old water heater, should simply be replaced.

A patch is always a patch, and if that fails on a trip, you will invent more bad words.

Replace it and be done with the issue.

Andy
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Old 04-03-2011, 05:30 PM   #23
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Is it worth the risk?
If JB leaks after a few days...imagine the damage to floor etc.
Amen klattu. I believe "Mickey Mouse" repairs () more often than not, give "Mickey Mouse" results (). Time spend trying to repair it could be better spent replacing it... and you won't be spending the dollars on quick-fix products.

Just my thoughts...

Kevin
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