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Old 02-05-2005, 01:32 PM   #1
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Installing new water heater now! HELP

Sorry if this is a dupe - can't find where my original went

I am installing a new hot water heater in my 69 overlander - the new one is sitting on the picnic table waiting! I have all of the rusted screws removed from the outside and all of the plumbing/gas is disconnected. My understanding was that the HW heater would just slide out of the opening but it won't budge. In the linen closet it looks like an alum case with the water in/out sticking out of the back. Should this whole thing come thru the opening or should this alum case stay in the closet? I can reach the screws that go thru this case on one side thru a closet but the other side is behind the surround in the bath. I have a rear bath/twin set up.

Pls help!!!!
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Old 02-05-2005, 03:01 PM   #2
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for anyone wondering - yes it does just slide out. The screws on the side were catching on the wall of the trailer and I just had to keep working with it. I finally sat down in the bathroom and pushed it out with my feet! LMAO
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Old 02-05-2005, 03:48 PM   #3
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I figured it was the Vulkem sealant holding it up from moving
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Old 02-05-2005, 04:54 PM   #4
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Unhappy another question about this new water heater

the old one had small screws that were catching on the wall as I pulled it out I just had to keep working with it and a large flat screwdriver to coax it out.

I am assuming that this styrofoam which is in 2 pieces and covers the tank is not just packing but needs to stay on the new tank for insulation - is this correct??? If so, I am going to have to re-route my copper pipes because there is not quite enough room the way it is set up now. I had to cut the 2 straps that held them and take the top one off to get it through the hole in the skin. The tank itself is round - that is why I am assuming this form needs to stay on the tank.......... Can anyone help me with this question Please?
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Old 02-05-2005, 05:07 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rochsmama
I am assuming that this styrofoam which is in 2 pieces and covers the tank is not just packing but needs to stay on the new tank for insulation Can anyone help me with this question Please?
Can't help you with all the install info - but I do know for a fact that the styrofoam is NOT just packing and it is infact the insulation for the outside of the tank.

I'm sure a bit of coaxing and fitting by cutting away a bit here and there and then replacing once in place will not harm or degrade the purpose.

good luck - we have had ours out of the 69 too - but put it back once we found out it leaked like a sive! waiting on the trip to camping world in a few weeks for it's replacement - in the interim we did not want to open up our trailer for every small animal to venture in during the winter - tee hee.

Our dilema is we can not decided which heater to replace with - the standard Attwood LP only, or the LP with electric starter, or the LP with the DIS/DSI? whatever - provides both LP and electric - we are not fulltiming in her and will be mostly camping - long hot showers unless hooked up to water will not be an option anyway when you are boondocking. There is condsiderable differences in price - and the pilot lighting would not be that big a deal from the outside (we are still young enough that we don't need every conceivable luxury...yet) Have hear the electrical ones are more tempermental and just more to fix??? but then we have not used any so we have no personal experience with any of it so who are we to judge...
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Old 02-05-2005, 05:24 PM   #6
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yup...the styrofoam is the insulation and must remain on the new unit.
you might have to adapt the old pipes to fit the new unit...good luck!
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Old 02-05-2005, 10:37 PM   #7
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try this

I smiled with the foot out the trailer technique. I had to use this myself to get my old one out.

As far as hooking it up - I went to Home Depot and ran out of luck trying to find new 1/2" pipe to 1/2" compression elbows to hook it up.... and much cussing trying to get the pipes to line up right.

Hindsight - I used (2) straight 1/2" to 1/2" pipe male to male threads (brass) to fit into the tank, and then found short 12 inches long 1/2" pipe to 1/2" pipe steel braided hoses in the faucet department. I then used a 1/2" pipe to 1/2" compression fitting to make the final attachment to the copper pipes. This makes fitting the pipes EASY. You can use the styrofoam now.

Good luck!
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Old 02-06-2005, 07:15 AM   #8
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Old 02-06-2005, 07:32 AM   #9
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Thanks Marc! Just thinking about how to explain it to the HD guy was giving me hives! LOL - I was considering taking a digital picture and running to walmart to have it printed... That really helps! Also I remembered last night that the cold water pipe is screwed to the floor as it runs to the kitchen - I think I can unhook it from the floor and get enough play to gain my inch I need and then hook it back down. The control for the electric see.s to be all that makes the new one too deep.

For anyone looking - JC Whitney had the best prices I have seen. I bought this 10 gal gas/elec and had it fed-ex 2 day for $399 total. They were having a 10% off sale this week but their prices are the best without the discount.

Tina
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Old 02-06-2005, 09:39 AM   #10
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I love my electric ignition. When I replace mine it will have the electric "hot rod" installed as well. Most of my camping is done at sites with fulll hook-up. I currently turn my heater on first thing in the morning to was and shave, then cut it off. I turn it on just before I shower and secure it when I am finished. I don't let it cycle all day and night. I have found this to be a very cost effective way to use it, but with an electric connection the water would always be hot without the added cost of propane keeping it that way.
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Old 02-06-2005, 09:51 AM   #11
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Three and a half years ago, I put in a 10 gallon Suburban dual WH. We boondock and stay in campgrounds about the same amount of time. I've not had any problems with it, unless you consider the pilot going out on a really windy day a problem. It performs as expected without any worries.

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Old 02-06-2005, 10:10 AM   #12
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No prob

I'm 99% sure those were the sizes involved - last night I awoke and wondered - was it 5/8" or 1/2". I'm pretty sure it's 1/2 inch. It was a common size. If you can, try unscrewing the old elbow (you only need one) from the old water heater out and bring it along. That will confirm the pipe thread and compression (the one with the flare end on it) size with the guys at HD. I used a monkey wrench on the old fitting and it came right out.
Good Luck!
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Old 02-06-2005, 01:12 PM   #13
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Exclamation Testing Your Fittings

I would like to add my $0.02, The electric start is the way to go.
The one thing I have not seen mentioned yet, is testing the LP connections.
It is so very important to test these fittings with a soap type detector.
Once it tests good, then recheck it in 6 months.
Good Luck.
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Old 02-06-2005, 04:35 PM   #14
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you may want to check

Just another thought is that you may want to check & make sure ALL fittings,hoses, etc that you use are LP gas approved. If you ever have any problems that's one of the items they'll look at closely.
Best,
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