Originally Posted by vswingfield
If you remove the outer trim and mounting parts highlighted in red in the photo, the hole is much larger. The water heater will then come out this hole. That's how I got mine out of my Trade Wind.
There will be some screws that you have to remove from inside the cabinets and you may have to move some things out of the way. You definitely will have to unhook the plumbing first before you can move it out the hole.
Looks like you've already remove the screws on the trim. I think you're on the right track. Colin is right, though, be sure and see if it is OK before you go to any more trouble.
Too far gone now. I dissasembled instead of taking a sawzall to everything, so the WH will probably be in great shape if someone wants it. Maybe I can sell it to Colin for several hundred since it'll last longer than a new one.
It seems that Steve from VTS was right about 64 being the year of experimentation. My WH was installed from both the inside, AND the outside.
In looking at the assembly, let me take you all back in time to how the factory did the 64 Overlander International WH in Ohio.
First, a small opening was cut in the side of the trailer. Then, this opening was reinforced from the inside with additional aluminum sheets to make the opening as small as possible.
Next, the outside flange was cut and formed, and a inner shroud was stapled to this flange. You can see that as the inside metal that touches up against the WH body. This shroud assembly was then backed with a black adhesive and the trim was filled with a significant amount of butyl tape. It was then screwed to the AS outside shell.
Next, a horizontal steel pipe was run through the top area of this shroud, and the propane was connected inside the trailer, and again from the inside of the shroud to the burner.
next, the tank was moved up to the shroud, and 4-5 screws attached the shroud to the tank from the inside of the AS.
Finally, a liberal amount of adhesive - like Vulkem was used for all of the seams to further glue the shroud to the WH.
The interior cabinets were then built around it all. Oh and the exhaust was screwed on.
So, how do you take it out?
Well, I popped the staples (not an easy thing) and pulled the outside trim off.
The best scenario is this: Burn the trailer and file an insurance claim.
1. Remove the screws that are in the trailer that attach the shroud to the WH.
2. Unhook the propane supply line.
3. Then, go to the outside and cut the steel pipe that runs horizontally across. If you remove the fittings, you should be able to cut in the middle and pull the two pieces from the outside. If you don't take the ends off, you may be able to pull them through, but there are some fittings for the line to the burner that may be too hard to remove.
4. Once that line is cut, you should be able to remove the shroud. Due to the amount of glue and butyl tape, I suggest getting 2 plastic putty knives (they won't scratch the aluminum) and putting a wedge between them to slowly pry off the trim. You may be able to put a large screwdriver between them and slowly twist it to push the trim off the body of the AS.
5. Go under the body of the trailer and find the Pressure release valve drain pipe. This is a 1" pipe that hangs down through the belly pan. Use a pipe wrench to remove it from there instead of trying to do inside the AS. (unless you've removed all of the furniture, but I still think I had more room and leverage laying on the ground. The belly pan can be pushed up to get a grip on the pipe.
After that, clip or undo your water lines, and you may be able to lift it through the closet. I haven't gotten to that point yet. I finished up late last night, and just have the tank to remove, but I am afraid I may still need to remove the ABS drain lines to have enough room to get it out of there.
Feel free to post any additiona questions on this and I may be able to help. I removed mine in such a way, I could almost put it back in. Let me know if you need the old burner for parts too.