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ALANSD · 05-11-2008, 04:49 PM

O posted three photos of the gas line I am talking about. Below the trailer also. Do I have to drop the belly pan to see the connection I am not seeing?
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monocoque · 05-11-2008, 05:01 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ALANSD

O posted three photos of the gas line I am talking about. Below the trailer also. Do I have to drop the belly pan to see the connection I am not seeing?
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I'm not sure at what point you took the photos. But you need to completely disconnect the fitting from the outside valve. Also completely disconnect the line from the tank. Look very closely at where the line goes through the floor. Clean the hole out if there is caulking there and then you should be able to pull the line out from below. The hole should be large enough for the fitting to pass through. Maybe not. If not you'll have to remove the fitting. In my rig there was nothing holding the line between the floor and the belly pan. You should not have to drop the belly pan. At the very most you might drop the wrap in that area but I doubt you should even have to do that.

ALANSD · 05-11-2008, 05:06 PM

So I disconnect the line at that shut off fitting? It seems like it wants to keep twisiting and I di not want to break it. Sorry I am being a dunderhead on this one.

monocoque · 05-11-2008, 05:20 PM

The propane line must be removed and clear from the tank before you can remove the tank from the trailer. You probably don't have to disconnect the line from the valve but I would do that so it's easier to pull the line through the floor and free from the tank. You'll need two wrenches to remove the fitting from the valve.

Quote:

Originally Posted by ALANSD

So I disconnect the line at that shut off fitting? It seems like it wants to keep twisiting and I di not want to break it. Sorry I am being a dunderhead on this one.

ALANSD · 05-11-2008, 05:22 PM

Thanks I tried that but was screwing something up, maybe I will spray some lube on the fittings tonite., soak it and try tommorow.

HawkeyeMark · 04-04-2024, 04:43 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by monocoque

I have removed the Bowen Water Heater, Model G10B, in my '75 Ambassador and want to find a replacement. Here's a photo of the old Bowen from the exterior prior to removal.

At this point I have very little knowledge about hot water heaters or how to choose a replacement. Will new heaters will fit the measurement specifications of the old heater? Do new heaters include a new external access cover? If the new heater vents differently the access cover will need replacing?

You're in luck!!! I am about 1 month ahead of you in replacing the same water heater in my 1975 25' AS. There is only 1 water heater on the market that will replace the Bowen that has the Atwood thermostat on it! I've talked / called everybody, even looked into the possibility of restoring the Bowen, couldn't locate a correct thermostat or other out of date parts any where in the country,.
The replacement water heater that will fit into the spot previously occupied by the Bowen wh is a Suburban 5320A Direct Spark Ignition (DSI) 6 Gallon Advantage Water Heater - SAW6D. The door from your Bowen will fit as well. You can get the model on Amazon for $426+-.

As a heads up, you'll need to by a new water pump as well! The reason being is that the old WH used an air compressor and not a water pump. The old system would pressurize the tank via the air compressor. The water pump has shims and a belt on it, not what I was expecting, after a little head scratching i called some old Rv techs and they explained. Water pumps are not expensive! I bought mine from Out of Door Mart in NC, however Amazon as well as everybody in the RV parts business has them as well. Hope that helps