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Old 03-30-2008, 04:49 PM   #29
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Tood,

Was gone for the weekend or would have responded sooner.

If your plumbing is sound (and copper is pretty durable) I would probably only replace what I had to. Every job is different, I like to use as few fittings and adapters as I can - every extra joint is an opportunity to go bad. I also typically reuse copper that comes out of a repair job elsewhere. Sweating copper in a trailer makes me a little nervous - I'd plan any transition to PEX where I could safely heat the transition fitting.

Lew Faber(?) "Lewster" posts fairly frequently on this site. He does RV repair in Florida (Marco Island I think). He knows his stuff and I think he prefers the "non-crimp" Pex fittings. He installed the RV-500 tankless in his new trailer - I bought his old one when I needed a quick and less expensive replacement. His recommendation is one reason I'd consider it.

The snow is finally starting to go away - time to think about new axles!

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Old 03-30-2008, 08:13 PM   #30
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I'm not sure which way to go yet. On-demand/tankless or conventional? Copper or PEX? I'm thinking seriously about going tankless and with PEX. Tankless certainly sounds a lot more efficient and virtually endless hot water. What's not to like aside from the expense? What do you suppose to be the down sides of PEX?
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Old 03-30-2008, 08:33 PM   #31
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Todd - I really have no opinion of PEX one way or the other but I did find this and thought you should at least see it....

PerPEXing Problem - TOH Discussions
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Old 03-30-2008, 08:41 PM   #32
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PEX Concerns?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Ganglin
Todd - I really have no opinion of PEX one way or the other but I did find this and thought you should at least see it....

PerPEXing Problem - TOH Discussions
Interesting discussion. "PEX when manufactured using the t-butyl peroxide method of production... causes a gasoline taste and leaches chemicals into the water...including the steam from these pipes during showering..." Also the mention of the ease of rodents gnawing through the material. Hmmmm...
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Old 03-30-2008, 09:33 PM   #33
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cameront120
Gary, can you please describe the bypass you mentioned? What is the purpose? Sorry, I'm not so bright when it comes to these sorts of things.
It is used for winterizing, or to isolate a leaking tank.
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Old 03-31-2008, 08:57 AM   #34
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Pex & rodents

Todd,

It is true that mice et al will/can chew PEX piping. However, I think that the problem is greatest when the pipe goes through a floor/wall and the rodent enlarges the hole by chewing the pipe out of it. (I don't think they are attracted to it; just using it as a path to where they want to be. As far as taste goes, I have not noticed any difference.

Bottom line: If installed properly either copper or PEX should do fine in my opinion - having one trailer each way. (I wish my ONLY problem was plumbing - then I would not have any!) I purchased my PEX / fittings 7 tool online; we live a bit out in the sticks and I let the UPS driver do my running around. Pex Supply.com I think. They are out east somewhere, reasonable prices as far as I can tell and fast shipping.

I suspect that by now you are thinking that too much information is not a good thing! Anyway, thats one reason I like this forum - you get a lot of real world experience and things to think about.

Whit Nash
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Old 03-31-2008, 12:28 PM   #35
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tankless limitation

Todd, this will not necessarily apply to your situation, but tankless water heaters do have one limitation. For a given burner size and flow rate, they can only increase the heat of the water by a certain number of degrees.

For example, a heater might be rated for 3 gpm and 55 degrees (arbitrary numbers). In South Texas during July, the supply water coming from the campgound supply system might be 75 degrees. The heater could produce a maximum water temperature of 130 degrees at 3 gpm. If you were camping in North Dakota during January, the supply water might be 35 degrees and the maximum water temperature would be 90 degrees at 3 gpm.

Slower flow rates would enable the heater to put out warmer water, but the difference would vary by manufacturer. Just something to keep in mind if you are going to do any Winter camping up North.

Laird
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Old 05-11-2008, 10:56 AM   #36
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I am working on pulling the old leaky Atwood out of my 80 Excella. I have drilled out the rivets, disconnected the two inside water lines.
Not sure about the gas line. It has a shut off valve below the trailer under where the heater is mounted . When I turn the fitting that connects it , the whole line turns.I tried holding the fitting on the opposite side of the valve.
I do have this line off at the heater connection inside the door, but it does not seem like it would push thru the hole in the bottom to free the heater.
Also the heater unit itself is not budging at all out of its hole. What am I missing? Thanks
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Old 05-11-2008, 01:29 PM   #37
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Attachment 60263
Quote:
Originally Posted by ALANSD
I am working on pulling the old leaky Atwood out of my 80 Excella. I have drilled out the rivets, disconnected the two inside water lines.
Not sure about the gas line. It has a shut off valve below the trailer under where the heater is mounted . When I turn the fitting that connects it , the whole line turns.I tried holding the fitting on the opposite side of the valve.
I do have this line off at the heater connection inside the door, but it does not seem like it would push thru the hole in the bottom to free the heater.
Also the heater unit itself is not budging at all out of its hole. What am I missing? Thanks
If you have disconnected the propane line from the tank inside the trailer and disconnected the line from the valve outside the trailer you should be able to remove the propane line from the floor through the hole in the floor. You might have to remove some caulking from the hole in floor. Do you have the banana wrap off below the heater?

If you have disconnected the water lines and removed the rivets or screws there isn't much else holding the tank in place. See the photos in post 9 of this thread. At least there wasn't on my heater. The flange that rivets or screws to the exterior skin is caulked very well so that may be sticking. See photo below. Try using a putty knife to break the seal but be careful you don't scratch the aluminum. I was able to "walk" my heater out gradually inching it side-to-side.

As I recall a little prying from the inside helps. But don't over do it until you're absolutely sure everything securing, holding or connecting the unit has been removed. Mine was in there pretty tight and there wasn't too much wiggle room. Don't force anything. Good luck!
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Old 05-11-2008, 02:39 PM   #38
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Pex Is The Way To Go Whenever Freezing Maybe A Problem,i Have 2 Overlanders And A Spartanette In Pex,also My Summer House In Ohio.when I`m Ready To Return To Fl. I Shut Off Water, Drain Water Heater,open Main Drain & And Open All Faucets,what Water Is Left In Lines Will Freeze,but Won`t Burst Pipes.after 30 Years Plumbing,it`s The Best I`ve Found For Cold Areas. Dave
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Old 05-11-2008, 04:51 PM   #39
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The line from my gas tank runs under the trailer and up hru a shut off valve into the heater. Seems like it would not fit thru the hole in the water heater as the fitting is too big. As for the heater itself there must be a rivet or something still holding it as it does not want to slide out yet.
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Old 05-11-2008, 05:02 PM   #40
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ALANSD
The line from my gas tank runs under the trailer and up hru a shut off valve into the heater. Seems like it would not fit thru the hole in the water heater as the fitting is too big. As for the heater itself there must be a rivet or something still holding it as it does not want to slide out yet.
The description you provide sounds exactly like the way my Ambassador was set-up. As I recall the flange around the opening was held to the exterior skin by screws. I don't remember drilling out rivets. Remove the propane line first. You might need to remove the fittings if the hole in the floor is too small.

It's a tight fit around the opening and the skin and the tank will be heavy if it's still full of water. Be very careful not to bend anything too much but you might be able to get a screwdriver between the lower flange and the floor. With a little leverage from below you should be able to get it moving back and forth.
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Old 05-11-2008, 05:49 PM   #41
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O posted three photos of the gas line I am talking about. Below the trailer also. Do I have to drop the belly pan to see the connection I am not seeing?
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Old 05-11-2008, 06:01 PM   #42
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ALANSD
O posted three photos of the gas line I am talking about. Below the trailer also. Do I have to drop the belly pan to see the connection I am not seeing?
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I'm not sure at what point you took the photos. But you need to completely disconnect the fitting from the outside valve. Also completely disconnect the line from the tank. Look very closely at where the line goes through the floor. Clean the hole out if there is caulking there and then you should be able to pull the line out from below. The hole should be large enough for the fitting to pass through. Maybe not. If not you'll have to remove the fitting. In my rig there was nothing holding the line between the floor and the belly pan. You should not have to drop the belly pan. At the very most you might drop the wrap in that area but I doubt you should even have to do that.
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