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Old 11-28-2019, 05:40 PM   #1
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Hot water in just 3-4 hours only on electric!

When we put the propane on we get great hot water. If you want to use electric you might wait a while like hours. So if you say replace the heating element..done...thermostat..done. After the heating element was changed and flipped to on the breaker flipped. Next came the thermostat replacement. We still have the same problem after replacing those parts.

This was done by mobile repair guys so not cheap. They said they would return since it is not working properly but it was working when we left. It always had electric current going to it. They of course were not here to see it get warm.

If it was the mixing valve wouldn't it also affect propane heating?

Need to get back with them but not willing to sink more money into a unit that may not ever work properly.

Any ideas?
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Old 11-28-2019, 10:48 PM   #2
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Itís not the mixing valve....

Bad control board perhaps....
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Old 11-29-2019, 07:54 AM   #3
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My water heater will do six gallons on 20 minutes easily. Less than 10 minutes on propane. Could well be either control board or something wrong with how it is wired.
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Old 11-29-2019, 08:21 AM   #4
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They may have put a lower-wattage element in it than what would come with a factory install. The add-on element in our water heater will heat a tank of water in about a half hour.
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Old 11-29-2019, 08:25 AM   #5
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Thanks, it has been working properly for 5 years so my guess it is not wiring. I will check ODM for what a control board cost. Hot water heaters probably do not have many more parts to be replaced is my guess.
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Old 11-29-2019, 08:51 AM   #6
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Do not buy the Chinese board for the Atwood water heater, get a Dinosaur board. Ask me how I know...
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Old 11-29-2019, 01:23 PM   #7
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One other item to check is that is a 120volt heater element not a 240 volt. If it is 240 v, it is 1/4 of the wattage. The length of time to have hot water fits your description . Think that the heating element should draw about 8 amps. if you can check the load.


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Old 11-29-2019, 02:06 PM   #8
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Our original element that started causing this problem was 5 years old. I did see the tech match up their size visually. Don't know if that works. We do not have low water pressure so I assume the mixing valve is not the problem. I think guys are right...it is the board. We think it also was burning lot of electricity but if you have it on for hours it would. We shall see when these guys come back out but I will have a lot of questions.
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Old 11-29-2019, 04:41 PM   #9
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If the water heater in your 1999 Excella is the same as the one in my 1999 Excella, the control module (board) does not control the 120v heating element. (the board is 12v only) There is a separate pair of thermostats, line voltage sensors, that does control the 120v heating element. They are on the back (inward) side of the water heater right beside the heating element (under the same cover).

That means the problem is either the wrong element was installed as Terry suggested in post #4 or the thermostats are bad.
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Old 11-29-2019, 07:39 PM   #10
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Do you by chance have a way to tell us how much current your trailer is drawing when just running the water heater? An external surge protector for example. I just measured ours and, subtracting random current draws, the water heater on mine consumes around 8 amps (at 120v.)

If, for example, yours was drawing half that then the theory about either a 220v element, bad electrical connection to it, or the controller’s relay or secondary thermostat having a bad contact seem like good theories. If yours draws something in the neighborhood of 8amps then maybe it’s turning on and off intermittently or too soon.
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Old 11-29-2019, 08:12 PM   #11
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there is a trouble shooting guide here>

https://www.manualslib.com/manual/84...page=12#manual
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Old 11-29-2019, 09:58 PM   #12
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Look on the side of the element base (you might need a mirror) to see if the voltage is correct, I do agree with daleyocom it could be 220v.
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Old 11-29-2019, 10:07 PM   #13
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Do you have a home-type switch on a separate location for AC operation? If so, control board is not involved in the AC operation. If you havs a common switch panel for propane and AC, you need 12 volts to operate on AC ans the control board is involved.

Assuming you have the separate switch for AC operation and only if you are comfortable working with dangerous electrical voltages:
Go to Harbor Freight and buy their least expensive clamp on ammeter.
https://manuals.harborfreight.com/ma...6999/96308.pdf

Measure the voltage between the lugs on the heating element. Should be 120 volts.
Measure the current using the clamp-on on the 20 amp scale. Should be around 10-12 amps. If volts good and amps low, bad or wrong element. If volts low, bad thermostat or cutoff in the AC wiring.

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Old 11-29-2019, 11:01 PM   #14
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This is getting complicating. I will get the mobile tech to read these. The reason we hire them is there are things we do not understand. I will reread to try and understand.
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Old 11-29-2019, 11:16 PM   #15
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I will do my best to check this out..do not know where the element is but will try to find it.
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Old 11-29-2019, 11:26 PM   #16
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I do not know if I mentioned this but after replacing the element and putting things together he was ready to leave and said the heater was on. Yes on the unit but not on the wall. I looked and no it was not on so I flipped the switch and the breaker flipped. Then he took the switch apart and said it was bad but no he did not replace it...next he came in and replaced the thermostat. So I guess my question will be what voltage is this probe?
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Old 12-02-2019, 08:39 AM   #17
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So the tech is here now and says we have 2 sets of thermostats and the outside thermostats were loose. He says he doesn't understand why we have two. Well, ok, he tightened them up but the water was just heating but has now shut off after no more than a minute.
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Old 12-02-2019, 02:28 PM   #18
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So it seems the new thermostats were bad. He replaced them and the problem at present has been eliminated. Thanks for all the help.

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Old 12-02-2019, 07:08 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by badkat View Post
So the tech is here now and says we have 2 sets of thermostats and the outside thermostats were loose. He says he doesn't understand why we have two. Well, ok, he tightened them up but the water was just heating but has now shut off after no more than a minute.
Each pair of thermostats, both inside and outside, has one thermostat that is set for ~160F and one thermostat that is set for ~170F. The lower temperature is normal intended water temperature. The higher is for safety, and will only activate in case the lower temperature thermostat fails and overheats the water.

The inside pair is for control of the 120v element only.
The outside pair is for control of the 12v circuit board, power to the ignitor and propane solenoid valve.
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Old 12-04-2019, 02:25 PM   #20
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Your tech is ignorant and has probably just cost you a heap of money
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