Well, since I took the "Tropical Room" down for windy Spring, I've had a problem with the water heater blowing out. Today I found out that the boiler has perforated. Do I REALLY have to take the toilet out to get to the back of the water heater? I'm about to find out!
I'm experimenting now. This one will be the gas-electric ignition model instead of the gas-pilot-AC model that the PO installed that was never hooked up. I looked into connecting it electrically, and it draws 1500
watts. That means no A/C or heat strip while it's running electrically. That also means the water heater would require a rather beefy second line, which is something I'm not overly interested in right now. (The block heater in the truck wants 750 watts, and I'm already using one of the 110 outlets in the pedestal for that.)
If the new water heater has the same mount location for the electric probe and themostat, I may install it just for speculation, which, in effect, is what the PO did. Why he bought the nice feature and did not use it, instead of buying the OTHER nice feature (electric ignition) and using it is beyond me.
I rather like the idea of having a switch inside the bathroom, and maybe the kitchen, too, if I get REALLY ambitious, to control the water heater. Why not? I still have the shower pan out, and this is really convenient time to get to the side tunnel access.
I'm impressed that I'm having the same problems, in the same order, with the Excella that I had with the Argosy in 1992-1993. If the pattern holds, the toilet should be failing next.
And, oh yes, I got to poking around under the streetside bed and found out why my water doesn't come in on the reel. The line from the reel to the front closet compartment is freeze fractured. The system has been "customized." Gee. Something to FIX.
So far, I've only had to replace one water line on the Excella. The Argosy was a MESS. I ended up replacing every bit of tubing on that one with PEX, which has now been trouble free for 14 years.
The adventure continues...