Gas supply for Atwood water heater

[cheetah1]

Hi everyone! I can't seem to find a local plumber that's interested in a small job, so I've decided to do this myself and am coming to the Forum community for help.

I am replacing the original water heater in our 1968 Sovereign with an Atwood Mod # GE-9-EXT water heater. I have the water heater in place, and next comes the plumbing. My question is regarding the gas supply to this water heater. Please know that I am a novice when it come to this!

Originally, the PO had a shut off valve underneath the Airstream to which he had connected the copper gas supply to the old Bowen? water heater. (Picture attached). My two questions are:

1) - what size gas supply do I need to supply the new Atwood water heater? It looks like a 3/8" ID supply - but - the 3/8" ID copper I find has a 1/2" OD and that 1/2" OD looks too big to slide into the rubber gasket (2nd picture attached) that enters the wall of the water heater. Also, that shut off valve underneath the trailer is for a 3/8" nut - not a 1/2" nut. What am I missing?

2) I would also welcome any advice on whether to run the new gas line extension to that existing shut-off valve under the trailer - vs - running a new line back to the junction of where the three gas lines (fridge, furnace, and water heater) come off of the main propane supply line.

Thank you and any advice will be greatly appreciated!!

[OTRA15]

Originally Posted by cheetah1

. . .
Thank you and any advice will be greatly appreciated!!

I would advise you not to do this work yourself, and to hire a competent expert. Besides plumbers, you might find an HVAC mechanic, or someone from the distributor where you get your propane tanks filled. Propane is highly explosive, as if this needs to be repeated, and IMO this is a terrible do-it-yourself project for an inexperienced person.

[woodfox45]

When I replaced mine on my former Airstream I didn't use the rubber grommet as my supply line came up from the bottom of the water heater I just drilled a hole with a hole saw in the base of the heater and run the line . It was 3/8 ID copper then I caulked the hole and put a bolt into the hole in the grommet that was in the heater . You will need a good flaring tool to flare the copper tube. Make sure you have no leaks check with soapy water .

[68 TWind]

It isn't rocket science. If it is your first copper tubing plumbing job just take your time, watch a few you tubes and expect to not get it perfect the first try. You may have to bend several pieces first. You will need a good flaring tool and a tubing bender and tubing cutter. Practice making flares and bending on scrap tubing. It is a skill but easy to master. I think the new "standard" for gas may a double flare, just remember that single flares have been used for years and years so it will be fine. The pressure in the LP gas line is only 14 inches of water, compared to water pressures of 70-80 PSI -that is very low. A good clean single flare properly done is fine. It took me a couple of tries to get the bend just right when I replace my original with an Atwood. 3/8 copper will go thru the gasket with some soapy water to lubricate it and then you do the flair. You will need the soapy water to check the connections for leaks anyway. Start the flare nut at the heater first as it is hard to get it lined up and you don't have much "wiggle room". Don't force it or you can strip the threads on the fitting on the heater if you are not careful. The fitting under the trailer is not a problem to connect. Once you have everything connected turn on the gas and use soapy water at both connections to check for leaks. If you see any bubbles turn the gas off and redo it. While you are at it, check all the gas connections with soapy water. I found one of the old connections on my 68 leaked. Finally, if you are not comfortable doing it, hire some one. Also, if you never expect to need the tools again it may be cheaper to get someone to do it for you.

[A W Warn]

All I can add to the instructions above: You probably need to add a support with a rubber grommet in front of that valve. Similar to this:
https://www.extremepsi.com/store/pro...at=1065&page=1

A source for cheap tools:
http://www.harborfreight.com/7-piece...-kit-5969.html

This is how a flared end is done:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3e103_ULgpI

[cheetah1]

Thank you!

[cheetah1]

Thank you for the reply and the direction. I am comfortable working on this, but I just needed some direction and advice to make sure what I thought I needed to do was what I actually needed to do. It's amazing what I've picked up (as wells tools I now have that I didn't know existed) as we work to get our Airstream roadworthy!

I will be getting the necessary tools on my next trip into town as I will probably need them as we continue to work on this trailer. You said that "the 3/8" copper will go thru the gasket with some soapy water to lubricate it..." Am I correct in understanding that the copper I will be using actually will be 1/2" OD with a 3/8" ID and that you were able to get that 1/2" OD copper thru that gasket on your Atwood water heater install?

Thank you again for the tips! That's a great idea to check all of the propane copper tubing connections under the trailer with soapy water. I could not even guess the last time they had propane flowing thru them!

[cheetah1]

Alan, thank you for these links and your input. I do appreciate it!

[HiJoeSilver]

"Am I correct in understanding that the copper I will be using actually will be 1/2" OD with a 3/8" ID and that you were able to get that 1/2" OD copper thru that gasket on your Atwood water heater install?"

Yes tubing measures by inside diameter. 3/8" copper tubing will be 1/2" outside diameter. Be sure you get the coiled copper tubing. Not straight copper water pipe.

[cheetah1]

Thank you HiJoeSilver! My project for this upcoming Sunday is taking shape! I appreciate your response!

[A W Warn]

Originally Posted by HiJoeSilver

"Am I correct in understanding that the copper I will be using actually will be 1/2" OD with a 3/8" ID and that you were able to get that 1/2" OD copper thru that gasket on your Atwood water heater install?"

Yes tubing measures by inside diameter. 3/8" copper tubing will be 1/2" outside diameter. Be sure you get the coiled copper tubing. Not straight copper water pipe.

I am pretty sure that the existing copper line in the photo in post #1 is 3/8" OD, not ID. I suggest you should measure what is there and get the same size. I think you will find the main copper line is 5/8" OD and the branches from it are 3/8" OD.

Also, this is a link to an owner's manual for your trailer: https://www.airstream.com/wp-content...0110i.arc_.pdf

[A W Warn]

That pipe is 3/8 OD, unless someone has modified it.
I did a search and found the following thread regarding the sizes of the propane pipes. In post #4 Terry (Overlander 63) states the tubing sizes. He is a mechanic at Out of Doors Mart, an Airstream dealer. I trust what he says. Then Ganglin clarified ID or OD in post #6.

http://www.airforums.com/forums/f287...-lp-63459.html

[J. Morgan]

Ditto, I am pretty sure that all of the branch distribution lines that were on my trailer were 3/8 OD.

I am playing from memory here so I might be wrong, but I am pretty sure.

Originally Posted by A W Warn

I am pretty sure that the existing copper line in the photo in post #1 is 3/8" OD, not ID. I suggest you should measure what is there and get the same size. I think you will find the main copper line is 5/8" OD and the branches from it are 3/8" OD.

Also, this is a link to an owner's manual for your trailer: https://www.airstream.com/wp-content...0110i.arc_.pdf

Gradiens super tenui glacie.

[cheetah1]

Thank you Alan and J Morgan. I did measure tonite and you are correct that the copper tube running into that shutoff under the trailer is a 3/8" OD line. I also called Atwood customer service, and was told that the gas service to their hot water tank that I am putting in should be 3/8" feed. SO - that makes me think that I should run a new branch copper gas line ( 1/2" OD / 3/8" ID) from the main copper propane line junction and replace what is there now (which is a 3/8" OD line) with a 1/2" OD / 3/8" ID line. That would give me the 3/8" ID feed that Atwood says I need for this Model GE-9-WXT gas/electric hat water tank. Am I correct in this thinking?

[ijustlee]

What was there should work for the new water heater unless the burner is way bigger and needs a lot more gas. Be sure to put the flare nuts on the copper tubing and facing the right direction before you make the flare! If you forget, that's why tubing cutters have that groove in the support rollers, that's where the flare fits as you cut it off!

[HiJoeSilver]

Here's a quick link on copper tubing dimensions:
http://www.alascop.com/pdf/cu/water_tubing_2.pdf

You'll notice 3/8" copper tubing will have 1/2" OD but different wall thicknesses result in different ID which aren't necessarily 3/8" either.
Almost all pipe is nominal, meaning what you call it size wise means that often there isn't a dimension that matches it exactly.

[cheetah1]

Thanks to everyone for their input. I think what was happening is that sometimes copper tubing is defined by some by OD, and sometimes it's defined by some by ID - regardless of the correct way of doing it. So finally, I got a 3/8" Forged nut to see if it would fit on the threads of the gas orifice in this new Atwood water heater. It did. To me, that now means I need to run 3/8" OD (1/4" ID) to insure I have the right size to fit the orifice in the water heater - and - incidentally - that will also marry up with that shut-off valve below the trailer and match the line coming in from the main split!

Thank you to all for your input and advice. This was driving me nuts until I got all of the replies and was able to work thru it. You guys are GREAT!!!

My Sunday project is ON!!!

[tjdonahoe]

Make sure you use made in USA copper 3/8 " ..I tried some from the local hardware store it was junk, very thin after ruining 1/2 the roll I took it back and they gave me all my money back, Home Depot had the good stuff...

[cheetah1]

Thanks for the info. Home Depot is where I'm headed!

[OTRA15]

Originally Posted by cheetah1

Thanks for the info. Home Depot is where I'm headed!

Wondering how this DIY project turned out?

Thanks.