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Old 09-29-2016, 12:42 AM   #15
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What was there should work for the new water heater unless the burner is way bigger and needs a lot more gas. Be sure to put the flare nuts on the copper tubing and facing the right direction before you make the flare! If you forget, that's why tubing cutters have that groove in the support rollers, that's where the flare fits as you cut it off!
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Old 09-29-2016, 09:14 AM   #16
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Here's a quick link on copper tubing dimensions:
http://www.alascop.com/pdf/cu/water_tubing_2.pdf

You'll notice 3/8" copper tubing will have 1/2" OD but different wall thicknesses result in different ID which aren't necessarily 3/8" either.
Almost all pipe is nominal, meaning what you call it size wise means that often there isn't a dimension that matches it exactly.
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Old 09-29-2016, 06:22 PM   #17
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Thanks to everyone for their input. I think what was happening is that sometimes copper tubing is defined by some by OD, and sometimes it's defined by some by ID - regardless of the correct way of doing it. So finally, I got a 3/8" Forged nut to see if it would fit on the threads of the gas orifice in this new Atwood water heater. It did. To me, that now means I need to run 3/8" OD (1/4" ID) to insure I have the right size to fit the orifice in the water heater - and - incidentally - that will also marry up with that shut-off valve below the trailer and match the line coming in from the main split!

Thank you to all for your input and advice. This was driving me nuts until I got all of the replies and was able to work thru it. You guys are GREAT!!!

My Sunday project is ON!!!
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Old 09-30-2016, 08:08 AM   #18
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Make sure you use made in USA copper 3/8 " ..I tried some from the local hardware store it was junk, very thin after ruining 1/2 the roll I took it back and they gave me all my money back, Home Depot had the good stuff...
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Old 09-30-2016, 10:40 PM   #19
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Thanks for the info. Home Depot is where I'm headed!
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Old 10-21-2016, 12:08 PM   #20
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Originally Posted by cheetah1 View Post
Thanks for the info. Home Depot is where I'm headed!
Wondering how this DIY project turned out?

Thanks.
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Old 10-23-2016, 10:26 PM   #21
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Hi Otra15! Thank you for asking - and - this project has so far turned out successfully. Given the input I received, some of which triggered additional research on-line on my end, we were able to successfully run the 3/8" copper line from the existing valve under the trailer up thru a newly created hole to join up with the new water heater. I ran into a GREAT and extremely knowledgeable salesperson at Menards (he was actually a retired plumber) that helped talk me through some additional questions I had.

So, the gas line is run and has been tested for leaks. Now, I just have to figure out how to connect all the electrical wires coming out of the water heater to the correct power sources inside the trailer!
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Old 10-24-2016, 02:10 AM   #22
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Thanks for the update!
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Old 06-25-2017, 02:26 PM   #23
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Ottawa , Ontario
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The rubber gasket on my water heater is cracked. Is it safe to use it? We are about to go camping and the AS dealer here is useless. They worked on my water heater in the fall and didn't notice it was cracked.

Thanks
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Old 06-26-2017, 04:39 AM   #24
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Are you talking about the grommet where the copper comes into the heater ?
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Old 06-26-2017, 06:59 AM   #25
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Yes, that's it.
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