Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
 
Old 03-23-2015, 07:11 PM   #15
Rivet Master
 
tjdonahoe's Avatar
 
2013 31' Classic
billings , Montana
Join Date: Feb 2010
Posts: 1,711
I have a question about my 13 classic,there is a water shut off valve and a check valve along side it, I thought it was to shut the outside water off but it doesn't ,can anyone tell me what it does?
__________________

__________________
tjdonahoe is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 03-24-2015, 09:19 AM   #16
2 Rivet Member
 
2004 25' International CCD
2012 25' International
slaton , Texas
Join Date: Dec 2011
Posts: 26
well!!!!!no luck so far..looks like I have a restriction in the hot water line somewhere? there are no on/off valves for the WH , only the by-pass valve. wording on the tank for the by-pass is "winterized" in the perpendicular position and "in--use" for the parallel position. so I assume that normal operation is in the "in-use" position. I still get a 10% flow on hot with either the on/off position on the by-pass. and the water coming out is a luke warm. I can access the WH from the outside back storage area or from underneath the bedroom wardrobe cab.. I see absolutely no other hot-cold cut-off valves, but do see a large silver "T" fitting which is maybe a "mixing valve"?? it does have a hot and cold line attached at different points. could this have a filter that may be clogged??on the hot side?
another strange issue is the kit. sink faucet has a hick-up about every 4 seconds on the full cold flow. it hick-ups for a fraction of a second ( water flow is interrupted in that fraction of a second) it then resumes. kind of like a light version of a water hammer . not sure if that has anything to do with the hot flow?
any help is greatly appreciated!!!!!!!!!!
tks
gregg
__________________

__________________
gnowlin is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-24-2015, 09:30 AM   #17
2 Rivet Member
 
2004 25' International CCD
2012 25' International
slaton , Texas
Join Date: Dec 2011
Posts: 26
hot water flow?

I am really not sure how to reply to some of the responses I have received .. so I do not know if the last message I sent was in the right place?? sorry...here it is again. hopefully in the right place??
please advise if I am doing this wrong.

well!!!!!no luck so far..looks like I have a restriction in the hot water line somewhere? there are no on/off valves for the WH , only the by-pass valve. wording on the tank for the by-pass is "winterized" in the perpendicular position and "in--use" for the parallel position. so I assume that normal operation is in the "in-use" position. I still get a 10% flow on hot with either the on/off position on the by-pass. and the water coming out is a luke warm. I can access the WH from the outside back storage area or from underneath the bedroom wardrobe cab.. I see absolutely no other hot-cold cut-off valves, but do see a large silver "T" fitting which is maybe a "mixing valve"?? it does have a hot and cold line attached at different points. could this have a filter that may be clogged??on the hot side?
another strange issue is the kit. sink faucet has a hick-up about every 4 seconds on the full cold flow. it hick-ups for a fraction of a second ( water flow is interrupted in that fraction of a second) it then resumes. kind of like a light version of a water hammer . not sure if that has anything to do with the hot flow?
any help is greatly appreciated!!!!!!!!!!
tks
gregg
__________________
gnowlin is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-24-2015, 11:22 AM   #18
Moderator
 
jcanavera's Avatar

 
2004 30' Classic Slideout
Fenton , Missouri
Join Date: Mar 2002
Posts: 8,947
Images: 143
Send a message via AIM to jcanavera Send a message via Skype™ to jcanavera
Quote:
Originally Posted by gnowlin View Post
well!!!!!no luck so far..looks like I have a restriction in the hot water line somewhere? there are no on/off valves for the WH , only the by-pass valve. wording on the tank for the by-pass is "winterized" in the perpendicular position and "in--use" for the parallel position. so I assume that normal operation is in the "in-use" position. I still get a 10% flow on hot with either the on/off position on the by-pass. and the water coming out is a luke warm. I can access the WH from the outside back storage area or from underneath the bedroom wardrobe cab.. I see absolutely no other hot-cold cut-off valves, but do see a large silver "T" fitting which is maybe a "mixing valve"?? it does have a hot and cold line attached at different points. could this have a filter that may be clogged??on the hot side?
another strange issue is the kit. sink faucet has a hick-up about every 4 seconds on the full cold flow. it hick-ups for a fraction of a second ( water flow is interrupted in that fraction of a second) it then resumes. kind of like a light version of a water hammer . not sure if that has anything to do with the hot flow?
any help is greatly appreciated!!!!!!!!!!
tks
gregg
Gregg, if you can get some pictures we might be able to help you better. Your description of the problem classically matches the fact that you have a winterizing bypass valve in the wrong position. In many trailers there is a valve between a pipe that connects the cold water supply directly to the hot water supply. Typically this diverts cold water supply from the hot water tank and moves that cold water directly into the hot water line coming from the tank. If that valve is left open, you get very little hot water from the tank and a lot more cold. That valve when closed should be perpendicular to the water line going into the valve. There is no mixing valve, so if you see piping like that, you may be looking at the bypass valve which diverts the cold water supply for the hot water tank, directly into the hot water line. If it is so, then that would be the valve that has to be closed.

I have three valves that I have to use. One cuts off the cold water going into the tank, one cuts off the hot water coming from the tank, and the third controls the bypass piping that I described in the paragraph above. So in my situation when in winter mode, I have two valves closed and one open. In normal operation it's the opposite.

As others have told you follow the pipes connected directly to your hot water tank and track back. You should eventually run into a valve assembly.

Jack
__________________
Jack Canavera
STL Mo.
AIR #56
'04 Classic 30' S.O.,'03 GMC Savana 2500,'14 Honda CTX 700
jcanavera is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-24-2015, 09:22 PM   #19
2 Rivet Member
 
2004 25' International CCD
2012 25' International
slaton , Texas
Join Date: Dec 2011
Posts: 26
by pass issue

thanks jack for the information.

I do see all the lines in and out of the WH. and yes I did have 3 valves on the 2004 Intl.. this is a 2012 Intl. 25' and I see the position on the by-pass needs to be open ( parallel position to the supply line) to bring water into the tank and closed with the handle perpendicular to supply line to divert the water from the tank. I have tried the by-pass handle in both positions with no change in temp or volume. I am again assuming that the "in-use" wording on the tank showing the handle in the parallel position is for a normal operation. which is the same position it has always been in. we had hot water on the first trip and this last trip was only the second trip in this one.

I have looked from inside and outside to see if there are cut-off valves for hot/cold and just do not see any. they were quite evident on the 2004 ( all grouped together)
I would love to send a pic or video but do not know how to incorporate this from camera to a message. do I down load the pic/video to laptop and then click on the "add video" to attach it? does it make any diff for a pic or video?
please advise, and thanks again... Gregg
__________________
gnowlin is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-25-2015, 10:01 AM   #20
Moderator
 
jcanavera's Avatar

 
2004 30' Classic Slideout
Fenton , Missouri
Join Date: Mar 2002
Posts: 8,947
Images: 143
Send a message via AIM to jcanavera Send a message via Skype™ to jcanavera
Quote:
Originally Posted by gnowlin View Post
thanks jack for the information.


I would love to send a pic or video but do not know how to incorporate this from camera to a message. do I down load the pic/video to laptop and then click on the "add video" to attach it? does it make any diff for a pic or video?
please advise, and thanks again... Gregg
Here's a link on how to add a photo. Yes, you need to get the picture loaded to your laptop. http://www.airforums.com/forums/f138...tml#post612569

Jack
__________________
Jack Canavera
STL Mo.
AIR #56
'04 Classic 30' S.O.,'03 GMC Savana 2500,'14 Honda CTX 700
jcanavera is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-25-2015, 10:15 AM   #21
Rivet Master
 
Antique Pedaler's Avatar
 
2010 25' FB Flying Cloud
1964 17' Bambi II
Laramie , Wyoming
Join Date: Sep 2002
Posts: 749
Images: 11
If your owners manual is like mine, there is a drawing of the bypass valves and how they should be set.
__________________
Antique Pedaler
'64 Bambi II, '10 Flying Cloud FB
'05 GMC Pickup, '11 Touareg TDI
Santana tandem bike
WBCCI # 4181 VAC member
Antique Pedaler is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-25-2015, 10:42 AM   #22
Moderator
 
jcanavera's Avatar

 
2004 30' Classic Slideout
Fenton , Missouri
Join Date: Mar 2002
Posts: 8,947
Images: 143
Send a message via AIM to jcanavera Send a message via Skype™ to jcanavera
I just looked up the manual on the Airstream site for your 2012 CCD. Here is the link. http://www.airstream.com/wp-content/...tional2012.pdf

Unfortunately it is a drawing that is not perfectly clear showing the piping. It does note however, that you only have one valve and it is clearly shown in the normal and bypass settings. The fact that you have tried both settings without satisfactory results I'd have to say you do have a problem somewhere in the water system. The manual shows no other valves other than the low drain valves. I assumed you have checked those valves to make sure that they are fully turned off, once you pressurize the city water hookup.

Another thing would be to check all of the water outlets in the trailer. I assume you are getting full pressure from all cold water outlets and poor pressure in all the hot water outlets? If my assumption in the sentence above is correct, then it sounds like you have some type of problem that is in the area of the valve. I know a long time ago on my SOB I had low pressure throughout my system and I found that I apparently was hooked up to a water supply with heavy sediment. The water screen at the city inlet was brown with sediment.

You may be at the point of needing some professional help if you are uncomfortable in disassembling some of the piping to further diagnose your problem. Let us know what you find.

Jack
__________________
Jack Canavera
STL Mo.
AIR #56
'04 Classic 30' S.O.,'03 GMC Savana 2500,'14 Honda CTX 700
jcanavera is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-25-2015, 05:22 PM   #23
2 Rivet Member
 
2004 25' International CCD
2012 25' International
slaton , Texas
Join Date: Dec 2011
Posts: 26
low pressure from water heater

thanks Jack..

I will check out the link for the piping on the 2012 Intl.. for information that may be useful. I guess there are no other in-line filters in the hot supply lines, and any loose particles from the tank should have been passed on to the faucet screens, I did have quite a bit of sand etc. in the screens from the cold side, all screens at faucets are clean. we have a double filter for water supply which should have caught any crud from the camping parks water .

yes, I get full pressure from all outlets(bath, kit sink and shower) on cold side. and the 10% on full hot. I am hooked up to the water at the house now, just to do checking. I did open the hot drain ( curbside at wheels) and the drain volume was about 30% of normal.
I do think the problem is a restriction somewhere in the hot water lines. again it could be that when I left the drain plug out after winterizing(2nd time) that something came in thru the water heater and nested in the outlet line. I may just start taking apart the lines at the by-pass area and maybe I could "blow" the lines back thru the WH..

will post another reply with hopefully some good results.

thanks again for your continued help.
have a GREAT day.
gregg
__________________
gnowlin is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-25-2015, 06:12 PM   #24
Moderator
 
jcanavera's Avatar

 
2004 30' Classic Slideout
Fenton , Missouri
Join Date: Mar 2002
Posts: 8,947
Images: 143
Send a message via AIM to jcanavera Send a message via Skype™ to jcanavera
Leaving the drain plug open shouldn't have caused any issues. I leave mine out at the end of each season. The only other thing might be a build up scale inside your tank. I bought this tool years ago at Camping World and was surprised how much crud is in those tanks, dependent upon the minerals in the water where you camp. Water Heater Tank Rinser - Camco 11691 - Water Heaters - Camping World Cleaning out the tank at least once a year will extend the life of your tank. This could help you if that tank has a lot of crud in it.....although if it's stuck in the lines or valve, disassembly may be your best course.

Jack
__________________
Jack Canavera
STL Mo.
AIR #56
'04 Classic 30' S.O.,'03 GMC Savana 2500,'14 Honda CTX 700
jcanavera is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-25-2015, 06:20 PM   #25
Rivet Master
 
Currently Looking...
Nowhere , Somewhere
Join Date: Jul 2005
Posts: 6,177
It takes a long time for the water to get hot! How long are you waiting? Jim
__________________
avionstream is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 03-26-2015, 06:26 PM   #26
2 Rivet Member
 
2004 25' International CCD
2012 25' International
slaton , Texas
Join Date: Dec 2011
Posts: 26
water heater issues

tks guys...
right now I am doing a vinegar and water soak in the WH tank. tried to disassemble the mixing valve and the TPR valve but no leverage and looks like both are in tight. just funneled in the vinegar thru a hose thru the TPR valve. recommendation is to cycle the heater 4-5 times to break any crud up. I have done 2 heat sessions so far and tap the mixing valve about 10 times with a small hammer to help break any crud loose. will probably get 'er all done sometime tomorrow or next day.
will post another reply when I have results.

gregg
__________________
gnowlin is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-29-2015, 12:56 PM   #27
2 Rivet Member
 
2004 25' International CCD
2012 25' International
slaton , Texas
Join Date: Dec 2011
Posts: 26
thanks to all with your comments on my water heater issues. I did do the vinegar solution ( 3 gal vinegar and 3 gal water) in the water heater ( had to pour it into the tank thru the TPR valve, u need a pipe thread to a hose thread fitting to accommodate the std. water hose and funnel system that I used) and cycled the WH for about 2 1/2 days . then drained and flushed several times. never saw any crud coming out of the tank. did refill and energize WH and now have about 50% flow on "hot" water side ( not warm any more) 100% on cold as before. shower seems to have a very decent flow ( enough to take a good shower). SO, maybe this solved the problem>>>? I can only guess that the mixing valve was clogged in some way.? right now it's good enough and the 50 % flow on hot maybe the amt I am supposed to get, it's better than the original 10% flow with only warm water.
happy trails to all!!!!!
gregg
__________________
gnowlin is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-29-2015, 01:18 PM   #28
Figment of My Imagination
 
Protagonist's Avatar
 
2012 Interstate Coach
Metairie , Louisiana
Join Date: Dec 2011
Posts: 9,179
You may have to "burp" the water heater.
1 - Turn off the water heater and let it cool down. Doesn't have to be cold, just tepid. This is an important safety point, so don't ignore it. You could get a painful scald otherwise.
2 - Make sure you have water in the fresh tank and the pump turned on. You could do this while hooked up to municipal water, but it's better if you can hear the pump running.
3 - Go outside to the water heater, and manually open the pressure relief valve at the top of the heater. You should hear the pump come on as soon as the open valve causes a loss of pressure.
4 - After just a few seconds, but before water comes out the valve, shut the valve again. The pump should shut off.
You will then have a smaller bubble of air at the top of your water heater, and the heating elements in the heater should be more fully covered.

Why did you have to shut off the heater first? The way an Atwood heater works, it heats 6 gallons of water to about 165F, hot enough to burn you. The heater has a built-in mixing valve so that as the 6 gallons of 165F water flows out of the tank it's mixed with 3 gallons of "cold" (actually ambient temperature) water, thus making 9 gallons of water at approximately 125F.
__________________

__________________
WBCCI #1105
TAC LA-4

I don't have an anger management problem. I manage to remember exactly what everyone has done to make me angry!
Protagonist is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply


Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Hot hot hot aluminum! luvoldstuff General Repair Forum 23 06-24-2013 01:08 AM
Hot water heater and water pump xo1rider 2011 - 2015 International 3 10-12-2012 06:55 PM
AC just quit working and it's Hot Hot Hot!!! SaabLover Furnaces, Heaters, Fireplaces & Air Conditioning 9 07-27-2010 09:03 PM
Hot Water Heater Problem Solved Larry71 Water Heaters, Filters & Pumps 5 04-19-2009 12:29 AM
hot water water on demand with a with a normal water heater Frank's Trailer Works Water Heaters, Filters & Pumps 3 09-25-2007 12:24 AM


Virginia Campgrounds

Reviews provided by



Our Communities

Our communities encompass many different hobbies and interests, but each one is built on friendly, intelligent membership.

» More about our Communities

Automotive Communities

Our Automotive communities encompass many different makes and models. From U.S. domestics to European Saloons.

» More about our Automotive Communities

Marine Communities

Our Marine websites focus on Cruising and Sailing Vessels, including forums and the largest cruising Wiki project on the web today.

» More about our Marine Communities


Copyright 2002- Social Knowledge, LLC All Rights Reserved.

All times are GMT -6. The time now is 12:51 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8 Beta 1
Copyright ©2000 - 2017, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.

Airstream is a registered trademark of Airstream Inc. All rights reserved. Airstream trademark used under license to Social Knowledge LLC.