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RFP · 05-23-2019, 01:30 PM

Our Airstream is a 2014, and it has been a problem-free delight.

We have been noticing that there is probably 30% reduction in water flow when using hot water as compared to the cold water flow.

The aerators are perfectly clean, so I'm wondering if perhaps there is some 'crud' collected on the screen of the water heater mixing valve. I know that it's pretty easy to check, requiring only minor disassembly, but being a lazy lout (!), I thought that I would check with the brain trust.

As always, thanks for your help.

Robert

lsbrodsky · 05-23-2019, 01:38 PM

Are you talking the sinks and the shower? If it is just the shower, I had that problem and the guts of the cheap plastic Moen valve were broken. I replaced the insert with brass and everything has been fine since.
Larry

RFP · 05-23-2019, 01:42 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by lsbrodsky

Are you talking the sinks and the shower? If it is just the shower, I had that problem and the guts of the cheap plastic Moen valve were broken. I replaced the insert with brass and everything has been fine since.
Larry

Thanks, Larry, for helping me think about this. It's both sinks... I didn't even check the shower, thinking it would follow the same pattern.

Robert

OTRA15 · 05-23-2019, 04:12 PM

If you have not been religious in using an inline water filter for city water and for filling your water tank, since the trailer was new, debris in the mixing valve is a definite possibility IMO.

https://www.google.com/search?q=mixi...=airforums.com
https://www.google.com/search?q=mixi...=airforums.com

It is also possible that your mixing valve has simply started to fail.

The same debris can get into the water pump, and cause all kinds of back-flow problems into the [overflowing] water tank, when on city water:

https://www.google.com/search?q=wate...=airforums.com

Even so-called pristine city water can have grit in the lines, at times, and rural campground well water can also be full of grit.

Good luck,

Peter

PS -- Camco filter, one of many brands:

https://www.amazon.com/Camco-40645-T...gateway&sr=8-3

RFP · 05-23-2019, 04:50 PM

[QUOTE=OTRA15;2244433]If you have not been religious in using an inline water filter for city water and for filling your water tank, since the trailer was new, debris in the mixing valve is a definite possibility IMO.
< snip >

Well, Peter, in an uncharacteristic burst of initiative and energy, I went ahead and pulled the mattress out and lifted the plywood bed base and took the mixing valve out along with the check-valve (which is a separate part).

There was only the slightest amount of crud in there, but I brought both pieces in, put them in our electric teakettle and boiled both in white vinegar (don't tell Linda, I don't think she's completely forgiven me for cleaning SU carburetors in the kitchen sink back in the 60s).

Anyway, I put my shiny clean parts back together and tested it for operation (and leaks!). I'm proud to say there are no leaks and - and I really don't know why this is - there seemed to be an increase in flow when either faucet is turned to full hot. I don't think this is simply the "Hawthorne Effect" (you know, it just "got better" because I fiddled with it)... the flow is definitely higher.

So, that's my story, and I'm stickin' to it

OTRA15 · 05-23-2019, 07:31 PM

Good news!

Your "Manitas de Plata" did the trick, I guess?

Good to know that microscopic mineral deposits could have been part of the problem.

Peter

**wulfraat** · 05-23-2019, 09:13 PM

My mixing valve stopped working completely this spring. After just 2 seasons and maybe 70-80 nights here is what had built up on the mixing valve screen....

I replaced the valve. Old one is a spare... just need to get around to soaking in vinegar....

CruizinDux · 05-24-2019, 10:16 AM

To complete the picture so to speak here is wulfraat's post/thread that i had saved. I'm planning on this project when i replace my BW vac breaker/ ck valve next mo. Thanks for the pics wulfraat!

http://www.airforums.com/forums/f445...-177432-2.html

B

PatLee · 05-24-2019, 03:50 PM

So where would I find this mixing valve?

RFP · 05-24-2019, 03:55 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by PatLee

So where would I find this mixing valve?

On the back of the water heater.. Click on the link in post #8 above

rmkrum · 05-24-2019, 04:05 PM

Note that not all water heaters have one.

open01 · 05-24-2019, 04:33 PM

Guess my classic '72 doesn't have one. Is this pressure balance valve?

rmkrum · 05-24-2019, 04:44 PM

It mixes very hot water from the water heater tank with cold water. In effect it gives about 9 gallons of hot water from a 6 gallon tank of scalding hot water.

We went tankless because DW needs her long hot showers on the road. The tankless puts out hot water as long as we have water and propane...and she’s happy with that!

**wulfraat** · 05-25-2019, 08:06 AM

rmkrum - what tankless heater did you go with? Was it a drop in replacement for the Atwood or did you have to change the opening size in the outer skin? Did you self install?

All the Atwoods in late model airstreams have a mixing valve. On my last trailer I went 8 years no issues. The new one had to deal with clogging after just 2 seasons. Must be the Rocky Mountain water.....

OTRA15 · 05-25-2019, 08:14 AM

FYI here is a 2017 post on that. Not sure if the info is current.

Have a good Memorial Day weekend!

Peter

FYI/FWIW

[click on orange arrow to go to the post/thread]

Quote:

Originally Posted by rmkrum

I installed a PrecisionTemp tankless in place of the standard Atwood 6-gallon. If you have anything else, like the Alde system, this won't help you...

The Tankless is about 3/8 of an inch taller, and the door is about 1/2 inch wider than the Atwood. It was relatively easy to install. I did trim the opening a bit taller, so it would just fit in. For my install, I added a support block to the bottom inside of the enclosure to brace it a bit better.

I found that taping up all the joints in the enclosure is a good idea--use aluminum metal ductwork tape, not the usual duct tape. this keeps cold air out of my AS closet where the heater lives. Had to relocate the gas line a little bit, but the original did fit with a little bending.

Wiring to the switch and operation is identical to the old Atwood. Butt splices, and away it went. Do be sure there are no shreds of the Styrofoam packing down the heater vent--you will get a faceful if there is anything in there when the blower goes on the first time.

If you go with PrecisionTemp, call the supplier and request an UNPAINTED door. It matched the AS side nicely, just needs a coat of clear to protect it.

A couple wierdnesses. It needs good strong water flow, which can be an issue if you use a cheap pressure regulator at the campground spigot. Use an adjustable regulator with a gauge, not the cheap one that looks like a small brass flashlight. They no worky.

It works just fine on the pump.

Also be sure your propane regulator is set right, and you have plenty of propane. In cold weather, a mostly-empty tank will NOT provide enough gas flow to this heater. Learned that the hard way, when the water got cold real quick. Be sure your tanks have propane in them...

My wife loves her loooong hot showers, so this is the ideal situation...for us. YMMV

rmkrum · 05-25-2019, 08:46 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by wulfraat

rmkrum - what tankless heater did you go with? Was it a drop in replacement for the Atwood or did you have to change the opening size in the outer skin? Did you self install?

All the Atwoods in late model airstreams have a mixing valve. On my last trailer I went 8 years no issues. The new one had to deal with clogging after just 2 seasons. Must be the Rocky Mountain water.....

I self-installed a PrecisionTemp 500 series with a side door in bare aluminum. The door usually comes painted white, but I was able to request and get it bare aluminum and I think it looks nicer. I installed it myself in a couple hours (in the rain).

The unit fit into the existing opening after I trimmed 3/8 of an inch off the skin on the top of the opening so the unit would just barely slide in. The external door was about 1” wider overall than the Atwood 6 gallon I took out, so I had to shorten the lower rub rail 1/2” on each side of the opening so it looks nice.

It was an easy self install. Instructions are very clear. Main issue was several tubes of factory applied caulking holding the old water heater in. Gas line connector was in a slightly different spot but I was able to reuse the old one by relocating the hole through the floor and belly pan. I also needed to add a solid support to the back bottom edge of the case, and carefully taped up all the case corners with metal duct tape to prevent any air infiltration.

The Atwood was recycled to a guy in Canada that was refurbishing a vintage trailer.

DW loves the long hot showers. I like the reduced weight on the street side of the AS. 6 gallons of water is 42 pounds or so of removed dead weight. And no, it’s not accessible water either. I’m totally satisfied with the new water heater. It’s very quiet and efficient and does not make ‘boiling noises’ in the middle of the night like the old one.

It was an easy install if you have the right hand tools and go slow. It fits into the original space in the bottom of my wardrobe closet and the original plumbing hooked up easily.

I also deleted the original three-valve winterizing bypass valve assembly as this blows out easily with air and holds little water. I still have a shut- off valve in the cold line just in case.

**wulfraat** · 05-25-2019, 10:23 AM

Cool thanks for the details I’ll check it out

rmkrum · 05-25-2019, 10:24 AM

We really like it, and it was not that hard to install. Looks very tidy on our rig. Some day I’ll clean the door and clear coat it, but here in the high desert, I don’t have a corrosion problem with naked aluminum.