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Old 05-22-2017, 06:49 PM   #1
2020 Flying Cloud 28RTB
 
2020 28' Flying Cloud
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DE-Winterizing and no water from any hot faucet

I have a 2015 22ft Bambi Sport. No water coming out of any hot water faucet. The cold water faucuets pulse water. The water pump continually runs in a pulsing sound. I did unscrew the plug from the water heater tank.and water came out. I screwed the faucet heads off and didn't find debri. When I called Shurflow about the pump, they said it will continually run until all the air is out of the lines. Ok, but I am not able to get any water out of the hot faucets? The bypass valve is perpendicular and the cold water valve and hot.water valve going into the hot water tank are horizontal to the lines. We bought this used and when we are on city water, all the faucets and shower work! I enjoy figuring things out, but this one is drivimg me crazy. Any one out there had this problem and saying, "Been there...." And what did you do? Visual steps are handy for this determined tinkering girl🙃
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Old 05-22-2017, 07:23 PM   #2
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If you have a winterizing kit at the pump. Where you can draw antifreeze into the system. The valve is probably in the winterize mode. Look for a flexible tube which would go in to the antifreeze bottle. At the other end of that tube there is a valve. Turn it to where the handle is in line with the line coming from the tank.
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Old 05-22-2017, 07:37 PM   #3
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Ditto to TG Twinkie and are you sure you have water in the tank, and that the tank's drain valve is closed? Have you taken apart the filter assembly between the water tank and pump, to see if there is debris clogging the filter there? Check all the connections between the tank and the pump.

When you put the filter and hoses back together, pour bottled water into everything as best you can. You can put an old beach towel under everything to catch the inevitable water which will spill.

Sounds like the pump is not priming, and may have gone bad, if everything works OK on city water.

Good luck!

Peter

PS -- These "pump not primed" search results may lead to helpful threads FYI:

https://www.google.com/search?q=pump...=airforums.com

Recent thread: http://www.airforums.com/forums/f163...es-165794.html
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Old 05-23-2017, 07:35 AM   #4
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Smile DE-Winterizing and no water from.any hot faucet" update

This was my first post to the forum and I am feeling the Airstream ♡. Thanks!! I do not have a winterizimg kit on the pump. The water was blown out last fall and then anti-freeze put down all pea-traps and toilet. I did take the filter off by the water pump last fall and nothing was clogging it. The fresh water tank plug is closed and the camper indicates fresh water supply at 100% when I put the water in. I can see that there is water drops in the filter. I am going to try pouring the bottled water down in there and the connections because the pump does act like it is not priming completely with the cold water only coming out the faucets in a pulsing mode. Many thanks and I will let you know what happens tomorrow when I work on it.😊
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Old 05-23-2017, 11:55 AM   #5
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Check Bypass valve (YELLOW) to hot water tank is closed (under bathroom sink) Handle should be perpendicular to pipe.
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Old 05-23-2017, 12:02 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by VT Wanderer View Post
Check Bypass valve (YELLOW) to hot water tank is closed (under bathroom sink) Handle should be perpendicular to pipe.
VT Wanderer has it right! No water only from hot, yellow bypass valve at water heater is closed.
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Old 05-23-2017, 12:23 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by VT Wanderer View Post
Check Bypass valve (YELLOW) to hot water tank is closed (under bathroom sink) Handle should be perpendicular to pipe.
Is this location correct for her 22' Bambi Sport, or your FC27? The bypass valve is located in all kinds of different places depending on model, floor plan and year.

Quote:
Originally Posted by vintagemotor View Post
VT Wanderer has it right! No water only from hot, yellow bypass valve at water heater is closed.


But she said everything works OK on city water, so the problem is probably not the bypass valve IMO.

Quote:
Originally Posted by lovemorels View Post
. . .
. . . when we are on city water, all the faucets and shower work!
. . .

Looking forward to more info. lovemorels.

Cheers,

Peter

PS -- A belated welcome to the forum and thanks for the thanks!
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Old 05-23-2017, 06:09 PM   #8
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Sounds a little weird, but my hot water pressure was very low after de-winterizing until I read somewhere on this forum that the outdoor shower needed to be turned on to complete the air bleed out of the system. Pressure was good after bleeding air out of the outdoor hot shower line. FWIW...
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Old 05-24-2017, 06:14 AM   #9
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A tweak on my first response - I said that the by-pass valve should be perpendicular to the pipe going into the water heater - I meant to say, that's the way it is when winterized - when in normal "camping mode", it should be parallel to the pipe.
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Old 05-26-2017, 12:34 PM   #10
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de-winterizing-and-no-water-from-any-hot-faucet-

Ok, I took off the filter by the water pump and I poured bottled water down it. I took off one of the hoses going into or out of the pump with a towel underneath it and water came out of that. However when I took off the hose on the other side of the pump it was dry??? I am attempting to attach a photo of the pump and as you look at the pump, it is the hose on the right side. I hooked up city water and opened all lines until I got water out of the hot side and then I turned the pump on to try and get more pressure in the shower head. Then I disconnect ed and tried running the pump by itself and once the city water ran out of the lines, no water on the hot side again.?
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Old 05-26-2017, 12:38 PM   #11
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Could we take this one step at a time? Your last post is not clear IMO.

1. On city water, do both the hot and cold water work, at all faucets and the toilet, and have you bled all the air out of all the lines, including the outdoor shower?

Thanks,

Peter
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Old 05-26-2017, 12:44 PM   #12
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DE-Winterizing and no water from.any hot faucet" update

HEY there Pete!
You are quick. I am sorry if I wasn't clear.
YES, the hot and cold work on city water.
I do believe I have bled the air out, especially since I was trying to convey that I opened all the lines on hot and cold until water came out including the outside shower.
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Old 05-26-2017, 12:47 PM   #13
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Great thanks!

Disconnect your city water hose, or turn the hose bib off.

Now, turn the pump on and open a cold faucet only. Do you get cold water from the faucet, and how long did it take for the water to run without any air in it? If no cold water, what does the pump sound like?

If you do get cold water from the first faucet, do all the other faucets also get cold water from the pump?

Thanks,

Peter

PS -- What percentage of Full does the water tank show on the monitor?
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Old 05-26-2017, 01:20 PM   #14
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https://www.airforums.com/forums/f445/de-winterizing-and-no-water-from-any-hot-faucet-

I did disconnect the city water completely. (Not sure what a hose bib is, but will look that up later)

I turned on the pump and ran the cold water faucet only in the bathroom sink. The water comes out in piles, ran for 2 minutes. I then turned the cold water faucet on at all the other locations and the water comes out in pulsation, no steady stream from any of them, including the toliet. The pump is running constantly.
Before I started this test, the fresh water had 88% and is now down to 75%.
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Old 05-26-2017, 01:23 PM   #15
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I meant to type pulses not piles.
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Old 05-26-2017, 01:30 PM   #16
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DE-Winterizing and no water from.any hot faucet" update

Here is a pic of my hot water tank showing the bypass perpendicular.
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Old 05-26-2017, 02:05 PM   #17
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Thanks for the updates. In my opinion, due to the fact that you have working hot and cold water when you are on city water, the bypass valve is not the problem. You got really hot water when you tested on city water, right? Not just luke warm? [Edit -- will reassess this conclusion after you post a photo.]

When you leave the city water connected at the hose bib ("faucet" also), and turn off all the faucets inside, do you hear any water still running, and maybe have some drips of water under the trailer, or on the floors inside? In other words, any chance there is a leak someplace hidden down low? Maybe leave the city water connected, and turned on for a while to rule out leaks.

Let's finish discussing the above, before we talk about the pump some more . . .

Cheers,

Peter
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Old 05-26-2017, 02:33 PM   #18
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DE-Winterizing and no water from.any hot faucet" update

Attached is pic of lines in and out of water heater. After attaching city water, no leaks under camper and I don't see any water by pump lines, under faucets or by the water heater. (THANK GOSH!)
BUT, I am only getting barely luke water out hot water tap unless I need more than 5min to warm up completely.
My old Lance warmed up real quick. SHOULD of.kept it!
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Old 05-26-2017, 02:40 PM   #19
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First off, you have the bypass valves set correctly in that picture, so your hot water heater is properly de-winterized.

It looks like a standard Atwood 6-gallon heater. 5 minutes is not anywhere near long enough to get the water fully hot...my old one took about 20-30 minutes minimum...

Make sure the heater is truly full of water by pulling the handle on the temperature relief valve in the outside compartment with the heater turned OFF (to prevent scalding you). Let the air out till you get water from the valve, then close it by releasing the lever.

Then turn on the propane (or electric) and let it heat up until the propane cuts off or the 'water heating' noise from the electric element goes away. Then try the system again.

If the water is still not warm enough, this may be one of the Atwoods that has a mixer valve on the hot water output that mixes cold water into the very hot water in the tank to avoid scalding. Sometimes the mixer valves screw up and don't work right. That I know little about, because I swapped our Atwood out for a tankless system...others on the forum know more about this mixer valve subject...
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Old 05-26-2017, 03:02 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rmkrum View Post
. . .
Make sure the heater is truly full of water by pulling the handle on the temperature relief valve in the outside compartment with the heater turned OFF (to prevent scalding you). Let the air out till you get water from the valve, then close it by releasing the lever.
. . .
This is not the correct way to ensure a proper head of air in the water heater IMO. Simply filling the water heater with cold water, and opening a hot faucet until no air comes out, is the right way. There should be a certain volume of air at the top of the heater, which is trapped there to provide a compressible air cushion for when the water heats up.

Releasing that trapped air prematurely -- by opening the pressure relief valve per above -- guarantees that the valve WILL release when the heater is full of very hot water, to be sprayed all over the compartment. Not the right way . . .



. . . and dangerous to a small degree . . .
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