Broken pipe to Hot water tank

[Bill M.]

I think the fitting needs to come out. With enough pressure it will unscrew or it will break off. I am betting that it will unscrew. A good fitting wrench is important. I have had water lines break in the trailer. Trust me, you want to fix it properly. The clear tubing in the picture is used in my trailer in the pickup side of the water pump and by Camco for adding their winterizing valves. I have no idea what the original plumbing is for a 97. But PEX is better than all of the others.

At this point I think the problem is really simple. Unscrew the brass fitting in the WH and then replumb with PEX as far back as you can easily get to.

[thewarden]

+1 on the penetrating oil. Rather than a pipe wrench I would use 2 sets of channel lock pliers, one on the water tank nipple in one direcrection and the second set on the brass fitting in the opposite direction. A pipe wrench could be used on the brass fitting but I would not recommend it on the heater tank nipple. I would also not be afraid to use some heat on the nipple itself, which will expand the nipple a bit and loosen the crud in the threads. I am most certain that it will screw out.

[tbashin]

Originally Posted by HankO

tbashin,

I tried to remove the female cpvc connection with channel locks to no avail.

What is the best way to remove this stubborn fitting. I thought about putting a propane torch on it but am reluctant to try this in such tight quarters, also thought of maybe using a hack saw but I'm worried I might cut into the brass fitting.

Is CPVC and PEX available at any local hardware store or do I have to find an RV supply outlet? Also can I use Shark Bite to make the other connections?

I'm up in Idaho about 20 miles from the nearest hardware store and I don't have cell service to call them.

Thanks to all of you that have tried to help me.

The hex nut is what you want to put a wrench on. The tank has female threads and therefore there is a short male x male pipe nipple attaching the tank threads to the brass/CPVC adapter female threads. It will be tight. Might need a cheater pipe on a box end or crescent wrench. Might even need a pipe wrench. The fittings you need should be at any good home supply chain but the one shown is not a real popular item so Amazon is your friend too.
https://www.amazon.com/Everflow-Supp...47894648&psc=1
I never recommend Shark-Bite because they aren't good in a vibration situation such as a trailer. Will eventually leak. You can buy the CPVC street-90 degree elbow, a new adapter, and a piece of pipe and CPVC glue and make the repair easily.
YouTube is your friend too on making glue joints properly.

[A W Warn]

Originally Posted by HankO

AW
<<snip>>
It would be interesting to talk to an owner of a 97 model year Airstream trailer to see what I have is what they have?

<<snip>>

HankO

I know of one 1997 owner posting a few comments about changing his trailer's fresh water pipes from the original polybutylene. He mentions it here, but I'm pretty sure there is more in another thread.
http://www.airforums.com/forums/f163...ing-63479.html

[tbashin]

Originally Posted by A W Warn

Don't try to remove the brass fitting. Use the wrench to hold it in place while putting counterclockwise pressure on the plastic pipe fitting. Use pliers, chanel locks, pipe wrench, or whatever you have. If the plastic breaks it does not matter. Try to not damage the threads on the brass.

That fitting has the CPVC molded/bonded into the brass. Not threaded in.

[HankO]

That fitting has the CPVC molded/bonded into the brass. Not threaded in.

Boy did I find that out the hard way!

[OTRA15]

As your image in Post #11 suggests IMO:



Have you tried some penetrating oil and various wrench/elbow grease combinations [incl tighten/loosen/tighten/loosen] on that brass piece?

Peter

[HankO]

OTRA15,

Not yet, I've been communicating with Airstream Parts to get there opinion on the fitting before I proceed forward. I'm just waiting to here back from them, I just sent them some pics and expect to hear back at the end of the day.

I will keep the forum update on my progress.

Thanks,

HankO

[HankO]

I finally got the Hot Water Tank connection to break loose using a large cheater on Crescent style wrench.

The replacement connection to the tank I used was a 1/2" (threaded on both sides), with a Hex fitting in the middle for the wrench. I connected a 1/2" 90 degree female (threaded on one side), Shark Bite fitting to this and used 1/2" PEX from from the female end of the Shark Bite to a 1/2" Shark Bite collar that connected the CPVC to the PEX.

Everything lined up perfectly and the connection seems solid. I did not have a chance to test the connections for leaks as the trailer is Winterized and in storage, but I don't see that there will be a problems.

I'm really impressed with the Shark Bite, I've looked at several Utube videos on this stuff and it really bites down on Plastic style pipe. I don't expect any vibration problems, if so this stuff is easy to remove and I can go a different route if need be.

I didn't have my camera with me when I installed the connections, but Iwill post pics next time I get down to the trailer.

HankO

[OTRA15]

Thanks for the update, glad it worked out!

Peter

[GCinSC2]

HankO,

Suggestion how to test repair.

My choice for checking a trailer water system for leaks is compressed air, maybe 40 psi or so. I made a winterizing blow out fitting that connects air hose to water fitting on trailer. But I added a psi gauge and valve so you can pressurize the system, close valve and monitor gauge similar to new home construction for roughed in plumbing test.

Air don’t make much of a mess to cleanup and tool doubles as blow out connection.

Gary

[HankO]

GCinSC2

Makes sense.

I wish I had electricity at the storage facility where the trailer is at.

Thanks,

HankO

[OTRA15]

The Viair 450-RV with winterization kit is a great 12-volt setup to carry IMO. Runs off the tow vehicle or trailer battery, so no need for 120-volt AC.

https://www.google.com/search?q=Viai...com&gws_rd=ssl

We just added the winterization kit to our 450, and it works pretty well. Duty cycle is 100%, but the CFM is low, so we have a 50' 3/8" air hose that can carry the 125 PSI from the compressor, which we then step down to 40 PSI at the trailer. This long air hose becomes a pressure tank, of sorts, such that you can create short-term blasts of higher-CFM air, by turning the air on and off at the trailer. A work in progress . . .

https://www.viaircorp.com/portables/450p-rv-auto
https://www.viaircorp.com/new/rv-winterization-kit

We first do a basic winterization by opening all the low-point drains, water heater drain, plus all the faucets/shower heads . . . then tow the trailer around for 2-3 miles. By the time we get home or back to the storage area, there is not much water left in the supply plumbing. I think uncle bob suggested this also in another winterization thread.

Good luck,

Peter

[HankO]

I just looked at several Utube videos of the VIAIR air compressor, looks like a great product.

I was wondering if the VIAIR could be hooked up to one of those mobile air tanks and used in emergency situation to run a impact wrench or use air tools?

I'm not sure what kind of hybrid connection needs to be used on the tank or if it can even be done, but if it could, it would seem like something I would want to carry with me in the truck.

HankO

[OTRA15]

Viair has tanks like that . . . check the links on their home page.


Peter