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Old 03-13-2013, 02:12 PM   #1
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1970 27' Overlander
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Bowen G10B Connecting lines

Hi, I think I am sticking with my original Bowen G10B water heater as I replace my copper plumbing with pex.

My issue is attaching the 1/2" pex to the water heater. I want to use flexible metal pipe, maybe 12-18 inches worth, but I can't seem to find ANYTHING that will work with that water heater. I think it's 5/8", the tapered kind, and I can find no flexible metal pipe to attach to that. Of course, the other side I need to get to the 1/2" pex, but a couple of adapters should do that trick.

Any suggestions?

Should I pull these out of the water heater and replace them with standard 3/4" threads and use a standard water heater line?

Did I miss something here? I cut the end off and took it into a Home Depot to try out different sizes and couldn't find a thing that would work.
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Old 03-13-2013, 02:33 PM   #2
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I am going to replace the plumbing in my 73 Overlander. Have you considered installing a bypass on the the water heater for winterizing ? That should give you some flexability with the pex connections.
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Old 03-13-2013, 02:41 PM   #3
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Why are you wanting to use flex piping? If you have copper already in place then consider using the copper for the flexible portion and join the pex at that point.
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Old 03-13-2013, 03:14 PM   #4
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My Bowen is slightly older and it connects with a 1/2 NPT Female fitting. I had NO luck using the PEX swivel fittings with the rubber insert.

http://www.airforums.com/forums/f109...ml#post1268724

I used a 90 degree brass fitting and a solid brass PEX 1/2 NPT to finally get a leakproof joint.
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Old 03-13-2013, 04:04 PM   #5
Home sweet home
 
1970 27' Overlander
Trego , Montana
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1. I like idea of setting up the bypass, but I'm lucky enough to have a heated barn to keep it in (and to work on it in winter) so I'm not going to worry about it.

2. I've already torn that copper out unfortunately, so I don't really have a choice! Perhaps I was a bit too eager...

3. I don't want to connect the pex directly to the water heater, it makes more sense to me (safety-wise) to use metal here. I'm trying not to sweat any copper if I can help it. I'd like to be able to repair on the road with the tools I have with me.
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