Atwood water heater drain plug

[nm1oqrz]

As you all know the drain plug on the attwood water heater is almost impossible to get because the gas line is right in front of it. What have any of you come up with as a solution to this problem of removing the drain plug. Regards nbm1oqrz

[driftless]

I've been able to get an open end wrench in there to remove mine on a couple different Attwood water heaters.

[nm1oqrz]

Thanks for the reply. I need to modify a socket and see if that will work

[2airishuman]

i use a flex socket



attached to 19.2 v cordless drill/driver with a 1/2 inch bit driver



very easy to remove the plug this way...

RE inserting is done by hand,

then tightened with the drill/driver on low speed.

works fine.

the bit driver adapter could be turned with a T handle hex driver, or...

one could use the flex socket with long thin extension and regular ratchet too.

cheers
2air'

[Kevin245]

We ditched the plug and installed a compact ball valve rated for this application. Draining is no longer an aggravation.

Kevin

[BradS]

After a few years of fighting with the plug I removed it, put a brass nipple in the hole, connected a 12" stainless supply line on that and put a cap on the end of the line. This works great although I like the idea of the ball valve as well

[mgann]

I replaced it with a radiator pet cock.

[Ganglin]

Originally Posted by Kevin245

We ditched the plug and installed a compact ball valve rated for this application. Draining is no longer an aggravation.

Kevin

That's a great idea.... on the list for next year.

[erock53]

I used to battle with it also, but I use the lug nut wrench from my truck. I have one of thoes wrenches with 4 different sockets on a cross that you use to take lug nuts off. One of them is the same size as the water heater plug. And for me, it fits right up there.

Eric

[Antique Pedaler]

Slip lock pliers have worked just fine for me for 10 years.

[Gene]

Channel locks.

Gene

[aftermath]

Small crescent wrench works for me. I do like the idea of the ball valve though and will look into one.

[Kevin245]

I believe it was part number 4112T63 from www.mcmastercarr.com

[Safari64]

High pressure PVC pipe fitting with 45 degree angle fitting then 1/2 turn ball valve.

1/2 twist to drain, 1/2 twist to close.

Fits inside cover nicely, drains where I aim it (not on my foot).

[easyride]

Originally Posted by Safari64

High pressure PVC pipe fitting with 45 degree angle fitting then 1/2 turn ball valve.

1/2 twist to drain, 1/2 twist to close.

Fits inside cover nicely, drains where I aim it (not on my foot).

pvc should not be used for hot water,over time it will get brittle and break.
Dave

[Gene]

CPVC is the version for hot water. A brass valve is a good idea, but you won't know if it leaks until there's hot water pressure in the water heater. Use teflon tape. The plastic plug or CPVC seals better than metal because it has some give, but it can leak too.

I expect different Atwoods have different things in the way. On ours, it is awkward, but not impossible. There's also a drain to the right of the water heater. On newer FB models, in the utility compartment (under bed) below the water heater bypass is a valve. It's hard to see as it it right against the floor. It may have first showed up sometime in 2008 because it wasn't in the 2008 owner's manual. When opened, it drains a water line and possibly the heater onto the ground below it. If I open this valve, and secondly, remove the plug, nothing comes out at the plug making me think that valve drains the tank.

It's still good to remove the plug because a lot of grit is pushed up against it even though we use an external filter for all water put in either the fresh water tank or when we use city water. I'll have to remember to put a water hose up against the plug hole to see if water comes out that drain—next spring.

Silt can accumulate at the bottom of the heater tank and unless you have the separate drain (maybe) will not drain out. Our Atwood info says that is ok because there's not enough water to cause a problem when it freezes, but it is suggested you flush out the tank to get rid of silt, grit, rust, boulders and whatever is growing in there.

Gene

[Skamper1]

All this draining of the water heater tank has me thinking. When I want to drain the water out of the AS, don't I just open the drain valves in the rear compartment? Open all the faucets and tub control? This is how I drained the 5th wheel. Thanks. Jack

[crazylev]

I've given up draining the HW tank the usual way by removing the PITA nylon plug.

What has worked for me is to open all the low level drains AND the pressure relief valve on the HW heater. It works for me.

To test this the first time, I did the above, and then removed the plug to see if I was missing something, but not a drop came out of my tank.

Add to this, when I winterize, I use and air compressor to "blow out" any residual in the pex lines and just maybe some of the crud in the HW tank.

I really spend a lot of time blowing out the lines, until not even a fine mist comes out. I also drain the strainer thing at the pump.

This will be the first year I won't bother with anti-freeze in the supply lines. Drains get anti-freeze.

We'll see what happens come spring.....

[PJohnson]

Either a 7/8" or 15/16" socket with an extension always works for us. We are on our fourth RV (3 Winnebago's followed by an Airstream), all with Atwood water heaters.

As for draining using the supply or discharge lines, in-line check valves can prevent draining!

[rock60]

a lot of waters have a anode rod atached to the drain plug, so you have to keep it that way or the rod will not work and your water heater will rust out if you do away with it in time. ever drain your water heater that don't have one, you see a lot of white stuff in the water.