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11-08-2010, 10:07 PM
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#1
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3 Rivet Member
1988 25' Excella
Trumbull
, Connecticut
Join Date: Sep 2010
Posts: 197
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Atwood water heater drain plug
As you all know the drain plug on the attwood water heater is almost impossible to get because the gas line is right in front of it. What have any of you come up with as a solution to this problem of removing the drain plug. Regards nbm1oqrz
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11-08-2010, 10:11 PM
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#2
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4 Rivet Member
1973 31' Excella 500
Spring Green
, Wisconsin
Join Date: Aug 2010
Posts: 265
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I've been able to get an open end wrench in there to remove mine on a couple different Attwood water heaters.
__________________
Lew TAC #WI-6
Nobody can help everybody, but everybody can help somebody.
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11-08-2010, 10:38 PM
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#3
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3 Rivet Member
1988 25' Excella
Trumbull
, Connecticut
Join Date: Sep 2010
Posts: 197
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Attwood water heater
Thanks for the reply. I need to modify a socket and see if that will work
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11-08-2010, 10:53 PM
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#4
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_
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, .
Join Date: Dec 2004
Posts: 8,812
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i use a flex socket
attached to 19.2 v cordless drill/driver with a 1/2 inch bit driver
very easy to remove the plug this way...
RE inserting is done by hand,
then tightened with the drill/driver on low speed.
works fine.
the bit driver adapter could be turned with a T handle hex driver, or...
one could use the flex socket with long thin extension and regular ratchet too.
cheers
2air'
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all of the true things that i am about to tell you are shameless lies. l.b.j.
we are here on earth to fart around. don't let anybody tell you any different. k.v.
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11-09-2010, 06:23 AM
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#5
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Moderator
Vintage Kin Owner
...
, ...
Join Date: Jul 2007
Posts: 11,696
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We ditched the plug and installed a compact ball valve rated for this application. Draining is no longer an aggravation.
Kevin
__________________
"One of the best lessons I've learned is that you don't worry about criticism from people you wouldn't seek advice from."
William C. Swinney
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11-09-2010, 06:27 AM
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#6
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Rivet Master
2006 22' International CCD
1957 26' Overlander
Plymouth
, Minnesota
Join Date: Feb 2006
Posts: 554
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After a few years of fighting with the plug I removed it, put a brass nipple in the hole, connected a 12" stainless supply line on that and put a cap on the end of the line. This works great although I like the idea of the ball valve as well
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11-09-2010, 06:38 AM
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#7
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2 Rivet Member
1961 22' Safari
Fayetteville
, North Carolina
Join Date: Mar 2007
Posts: 39
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I replaced it with a radiator pet cock.
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11-09-2010, 07:29 AM
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#8
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Rivet Master
1971 27' Overlander
Central
, Ohio
Join Date: Jun 2006
Posts: 2,365
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kevin245
We ditched the plug and installed a compact ball valve rated for this application. Draining is no longer an aggravation.
Kevin
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That's a great idea.... on the list for next year.
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11-09-2010, 08:14 AM
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#9
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2 Rivet Member
1978 31' Sovereign
Cincinnati
, Ohio
Join Date: Oct 2006
Posts: 83
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I used to battle with it also, but I use the lug nut wrench from my truck. I have one of thoes wrenches with 4 different sockets on a cross that you use to take lug nuts off. One of them is the same size as the water heater plug. And for me, it fits right up there.
Eric
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11-09-2010, 08:20 AM
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#10
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Antiquepedaler
2010 25' FB Flying Cloud
Currently Looking...
Laramie
, Wyoming
Join Date: Sep 2002
Posts: 832
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Slip lock pliers have worked just fine for me for 10 years.
__________________
Antique Pedaler
2021 Caravel 20 FB
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11-09-2010, 09:09 AM
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#11
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Master of Universe
2008 25' Safari FB SE
Grand Junction
, Colorado
Join Date: Sep 2007
Posts: 12,711
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Channel locks.
Gene
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11-09-2010, 09:15 AM
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#12
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Rivet Master
2006 25' Safari FB SE
Spokane
, Washington
Join Date: Sep 2009
Posts: 1,859
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Small crescent wrench works for me. I do like the idea of the ball valve though and will look into one.
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11-09-2010, 10:14 AM
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#13
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Moderator
Vintage Kin Owner
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, ...
Join Date: Jul 2007
Posts: 11,696
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I believe it was part number 4112T63 from www.mcmastercarr.com
__________________
"One of the best lessons I've learned is that you don't worry about criticism from people you wouldn't seek advice from."
William C. Swinney
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11-09-2010, 10:17 AM
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#14
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4 Rivet Member
1964 22' Safari
Eagle River
, Alaska
Join Date: Dec 2005
Posts: 251
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High pressure PVC pipe fitting with 45 degree angle fitting then 1/2 turn ball valve.
1/2 twist to drain, 1/2 twist to close.
Fits inside cover nicely, drains where I aim it (not on my foot).
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11-09-2010, 10:22 AM
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#15
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Rivet Master
1977 27' Overlander
1973 27' Overlander
1963 19' Globetrotter
Naples
, Florida
Join Date: Nov 2007
Posts: 1,259
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Safari64
High pressure PVC pipe fitting with 45 degree angle fitting then 1/2 turn ball valve.
1/2 twist to drain, 1/2 twist to close.
Fits inside cover nicely, drains where I aim it (not on my foot).
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pvc should not be used for hot water,over time it will get brittle and break.
Dave
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11-09-2010, 11:18 AM
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#16
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Master of Universe
2008 25' Safari FB SE
Grand Junction
, Colorado
Join Date: Sep 2007
Posts: 12,711
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CPVC is the version for hot water. A brass valve is a good idea, but you won't know if it leaks until there's hot water pressure in the water heater. Use teflon tape. The plastic plug or CPVC seals better than metal because it has some give, but it can leak too.
I expect different Atwoods have different things in the way. On ours, it is awkward, but not impossible. There's also a drain to the right of the water heater. On newer FB models, in the utility compartment (under bed) below the water heater bypass is a valve. It's hard to see as it it right against the floor. It may have first showed up sometime in 2008 because it wasn't in the 2008 owner's manual. When opened, it drains a water line and possibly the heater onto the ground below it. If I open this valve, and secondly, remove the plug, nothing comes out at the plug making me think that valve drains the tank.
It's still good to remove the plug because a lot of grit is pushed up against it even though we use an external filter for all water put in either the fresh water tank or when we use city water. I'll have to remember to put a water hose up against the plug hole to see if water comes out that drain—next spring.
Silt can accumulate at the bottom of the heater tank and unless you have the separate drain (maybe) will not drain out. Our Atwood info says that is ok because there's not enough water to cause a problem when it freezes, but it is suggested you flush out the tank to get rid of silt, grit, rust, boulders and whatever is growing in there.
Gene
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11-09-2010, 12:22 PM
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#17
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3 Rivet Member
1978 28' Ambassador
Savannah
, Georgia
Join Date: Feb 2010
Posts: 237
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All this draining of the water heater tank has me thinking. When I want to drain the water out of the AS, don't I just open the drain valves in the rear compartment? Open all the faucets and tub control? This is how I drained the 5th wheel. Thanks. Jack
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11-09-2010, 12:55 PM
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#18
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LEV ZEPPELIN
2004 19' International CCD
Chicago
, Illinois
Join Date: Jan 2003
Posts: 1,048
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I've given up draining the HW tank the usual way by removing the PITA nylon plug.
What has worked for me is to open all the low level drains AND the pressure relief valve on the HW heater. It works for me.
To test this the first time, I did the above, and then removed the plug to see if I was missing something, but not a drop came out of my tank.
Add to this, when I winterize, I use and air compressor to "blow out" any residual in the pex lines and just maybe some of the crud in the HW tank.
I really spend a lot of time blowing out the lines, until not even a fine mist comes out. I also drain the strainer thing at the pump.
This will be the first year I won't bother with anti-freeze in the supply lines. Drains get anti-freeze.
We'll see what happens come spring.....
__________________
Sometimes I wish I were living in the stone age. Then I would know I'm the smartest person in the world.
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11-09-2010, 01:25 PM
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#19
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3 Rivet Member
2016 30' Classic
Sammamish
, Washington
Join Date: Feb 2010
Posts: 119
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Either a 7/8" or 15/16" socket with an extension always works for us. We are on our fourth RV (3 Winnebago's followed by an Airstream), all with Atwood water heaters.
As for draining using the supply or discharge lines, in-line check valves can prevent draining!
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11-09-2010, 06:42 PM
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#20
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4 Rivet Member
1972 21' Globetrotter
nc
, North Carolina
Join Date: Feb 2006
Posts: 253
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a lot of waters have a anode rod atached to the drain plug, so you have to keep it that way or the rod will not work and your water heater will rust out if you do away with it in time. ever drain your water heater that don't have one, you see a lot of white stuff in the water.
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