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Old 11-09-2010, 10:22 AM   #15
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1973 27' Overlander
1963 19' Globetrotter
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Originally Posted by Safari64 View Post
High pressure PVC pipe fitting with 45 degree angle fitting then 1/2 turn ball valve.

1/2 twist to drain, 1/2 twist to close.

Fits inside cover nicely, drains where I aim it (not on my foot).

pvc should not be used for hot water,over time it will get brittle and break.

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Old 11-09-2010, 11:18 AM   #16
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2008 25' Safari FB SE
Grand Junction , Colorado
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CPVC is the version for hot water. A brass valve is a good idea, but you won't know if it leaks until there's hot water pressure in the water heater. Use teflon tape. The plastic plug or CPVC seals better than metal because it has some give, but it can leak too.

I expect different Atwoods have different things in the way. On ours, it is awkward, but not impossible. There's also a drain to the right of the water heater. On newer FB models, in the utility compartment (under bed) below the water heater bypass is a valve. It's hard to see as it it right against the floor. It may have first showed up sometime in 2008 because it wasn't in the 2008 owner's manual. When opened, it drains a water line and possibly the heater onto the ground below it. If I open this valve, and secondly, remove the plug, nothing comes out at the plug making me think that valve drains the tank.

It's still good to remove the plug because a lot of grit is pushed up against it even though we use an external filter for all water put in either the fresh water tank or when we use city water. I'll have to remember to put a water hose up against the plug hole to see if water comes out that drain—next spring.

Silt can accumulate at the bottom of the heater tank and unless you have the separate drain (maybe) will not drain out. Our Atwood info says that is ok because there's not enough water to cause a problem when it freezes, but it is suggested you flush out the tank to get rid of silt, grit, rust, boulders and whatever is growing in there.


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Old 11-09-2010, 12:22 PM   #17
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1978 28' Ambassador
Savannah , Georgia
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All this draining of the water heater tank has me thinking. When I want to drain the water out of the AS, don't I just open the drain valves in the rear compartment? Open all the faucets and tub control? This is how I drained the 5th wheel. Thanks. Jack
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Old 11-09-2010, 12:55 PM   #18
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Chicago , Illinois
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I've given up draining the HW tank the usual way by removing the PITA nylon plug.

What has worked for me is to open all the low level drains AND the pressure relief valve on the HW heater. It works for me.

To test this the first time, I did the above, and then removed the plug to see if I was missing something, but not a drop came out of my tank.

Add to this, when I winterize, I use and air compressor to "blow out" any residual in the pex lines and just maybe some of the crud in the HW tank.

I really spend a lot of time blowing out the lines, until not even a fine mist comes out. I also drain the strainer thing at the pump.

This will be the first year I won't bother with anti-freeze in the supply lines. Drains get anti-freeze.

We'll see what happens come spring.....
Sometimes I wish I were living in the stone age. Then I would know I'm the smartest person in the world.
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Old 11-09-2010, 01:25 PM   #19
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Either a 7/8" or 15/16" socket with an extension always works for us. We are on our fourth RV (3 Winnebago's followed by an Airstream), all with Atwood water heaters.

As for draining using the supply or discharge lines, in-line check valves can prevent draining!
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Old 11-09-2010, 06:42 PM   #20
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a lot of waters have a anode rod atached to the drain plug, so you have to keep it that way or the rod will not work and your water heater will rust out if you do away with it in time. ever drain your water heater that don't have one, you see a lot of white stuff in the water.
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Old 11-09-2010, 06:50 PM   #21
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Atwood does not use or need an anode rod. The suburban units need the anode rod.
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Old 11-11-2010, 10:16 PM   #22
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Trumbull , Connecticut
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Arrwood water heater plug

Thanks for all the ideas. In one of the posts it was indicated that attwoon did not need an anode rod, Why?
Regards nm1oqrz
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Old 11-11-2010, 10:27 PM   #23
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Spring Green , Wisconsin
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I'm not sure if all Atwood water heaters are manufactured without the anode rod, but mine doesn't have one. Here is how they work, Sacrificial Anodes: What keeps water heaters from rusting out
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Old 11-12-2010, 12:57 AM   #24
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Anode rods should not be used in newer Atwood water heaters. The reason for this is that these water heaters have a protective cladding to protect the tank. If anode rods are used in newer Atwood water heaters, they will void the warranty. I do not know where the cutoff is for "newer" water heaters. For more information you can contact Atwood at: 800-546-8759
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Old 11-16-2010, 09:12 AM   #25
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I called Attwood technical dept today and asked about anode rods. attwood said that their water heaters are alunimium and an anode rod is not needed. They also said that putting the anode rod in their water heaters will damage the water heater tank by the anode rod getting welded into the drain threads and being unable to remove it, thus requiring a new tank. The tech also said the people who market the anode rods for attwood water heaters should be sued. Hope this helps Regards nm1oqrz
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Old 11-16-2010, 09:17 AM   #26
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I forgot to mention that the tech said that attwood water heaters have been alunimum for as long as he can remember so he said the to never use the anode rod in any attwood water heater regardless of age. Regards nm1oqrz
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Old 11-16-2010, 10:08 AM   #27
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I installed an air compressor tank drain.
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Old 11-16-2010, 11:24 AM   #28
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Trotwood , Ohio
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I have never had a problem with my petcock on my water heater.Mine is the radiator drain/wingnut type. One thing to remember is these are supposed to be only finger tight. I open the drain cock and the drain valves in the rear of the trailer,raise the tongue .Unhook the fresh water supply,add a length of plastic hose,pump in (because I choose too) 6 1/2 gallons of RV antifreeze. Checking each outlet(Galley sink,shower,lav.,toilet and then the water heater draincock and all run PINK,I'm good to go to -50 below.I know its over kill but that's the easiest for me. I have so far not had a problem.
I do agree that,I wish they had found a more convenient place for a drain ,I cant even see mine,I have to feel for it.

Roger & MaryLou
7.3 liter Power Stroke Diesel
1977 27ft OVERLANDER
AIR # 22336 TAC- OH-7
May your roads be straight and smooth and may you always have a tailwind!
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