Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
Old 11-09-2010, 10:22 AM   #15
Rivet Master
easyride's Avatar
1977 27' Overlander
1973 27' Overlander
1963 19' Globetrotter
Naples , Florida
Join Date: Nov 2007
Posts: 1,259
Images: 1
Originally Posted by Safari64 View Post
High pressure PVC pipe fitting with 45 degree angle fitting then 1/2 turn ball valve.

1/2 twist to drain, 1/2 twist to close.

Fits inside cover nicely, drains where I aim it (not on my foot).

pvc should not be used for hot water,over time it will get brittle and break.

easyride is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-09-2010, 11:18 AM   #16
Rivet Master
Gene's Avatar
2008 25' Safari FB SE
Grand Junction , Colorado
Join Date: Sep 2007
Posts: 10,814
CPVC is the version for hot water. A brass valve is a good idea, but you won't know if it leaks until there's hot water pressure in the water heater. Use teflon tape. The plastic plug or CPVC seals better than metal because it has some give, but it can leak too.

I expect different Atwoods have different things in the way. On ours, it is awkward, but not impossible. There's also a drain to the right of the water heater. On newer FB models, in the utility compartment (under bed) below the water heater bypass is a valve. It's hard to see as it it right against the floor. It may have first showed up sometime in 2008 because it wasn't in the 2008 owner's manual. When opened, it drains a water line and possibly the heater onto the ground below it. If I open this valve, and secondly, remove the plug, nothing comes out at the plug making me think that valve drains the tank.

It's still good to remove the plug because a lot of grit is pushed up against it even though we use an external filter for all water put in either the fresh water tank or when we use city water. I'll have to remember to put a water hose up against the plug hole to see if water comes out that drain—next spring.

Silt can accumulate at the bottom of the heater tank and unless you have the separate drain (maybe) will not drain out. Our Atwood info says that is ok because there's not enough water to cause a problem when it freezes, but it is suggested you flush out the tank to get rid of silt, grit, rust, boulders and whatever is growing in there.


Gene is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-09-2010, 12:22 PM   #17
3 Rivet Member
1978 28' Ambassador
Savannah , Georgia
Join Date: Feb 2010
Posts: 237
All this draining of the water heater tank has me thinking. When I want to drain the water out of the AS, don't I just open the drain valves in the rear compartment? Open all the faucets and tub control? This is how I drained the 5th wheel. Thanks. Jack
Skamper1 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-09-2010, 12:55 PM   #18
crazylev's Avatar
2004 19' International CCD
Chicago , Illinois
Join Date: Jan 2003
Posts: 906
Images: 10
I've given up draining the HW tank the usual way by removing the PITA nylon plug.

What has worked for me is to open all the low level drains AND the pressure relief valve on the HW heater. It works for me.

To test this the first time, I did the above, and then removed the plug to see if I was missing something, but not a drop came out of my tank.

Add to this, when I winterize, I use and air compressor to "blow out" any residual in the pex lines and just maybe some of the crud in the HW tank.

I really spend a lot of time blowing out the lines, until not even a fine mist comes out. I also drain the strainer thing at the pump.

This will be the first year I won't bother with anti-freeze in the supply lines. Drains get anti-freeze.

We'll see what happens come spring.....
Sometimes I wish I were living in the stone age. Then I would know I'm the smartest person in the world.
crazylev is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-09-2010, 01:25 PM   #19
2 Rivet Member
2016 30' Classic
Issaquah , Washington
Join Date: Feb 2010
Posts: 86
Either a 7/8" or 15/16" socket with an extension always works for us. We are on our fourth RV (3 Winnebago's followed by an Airstream), all with Atwood water heaters.

As for draining using the supply or discharge lines, in-line check valves can prevent draining!
PJohnson is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-09-2010, 06:42 PM   #20
4 Rivet Member
1972 21' Globetrotter
nc , North Carolina
Join Date: Feb 2006
Posts: 253
Images: 2
a lot of waters have a anode rod atached to the drain plug, so you have to keep it that way or the rod will not work and your water heater will rust out if you do away with it in time. ever drain your water heater that don't have one, you see a lot of white stuff in the water.
rock60 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-09-2010, 06:50 PM   #21
Join Date: Jun 2010
Posts: 2,601
Atwood does not use or need an anode rod. The suburban units need the anode rod.
wasagachris is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-11-2010, 10:16 PM   #22
3 Rivet Member
1988 25' Excella
Trumbull , Connecticut
Join Date: Oct 2010
Posts: 192
Arrwood water heater plug

Thanks for all the ideas. In one of the posts it was indicated that attwoon did not need an anode rod, Why?
Regards nm1oqrz
nm1oqrz is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-11-2010, 10:27 PM   #23
4 Rivet Member
1973 31' Excella 500
Spring Green , Wisconsin
Join Date: Aug 2010
Posts: 265
I'm not sure if all Atwood water heaters are manufactured without the anode rod, but mine doesn't have one. Here is how they work, Sacrificial Anodes: What keeps water heaters from rusting out
Lew TAC #WI-6
Nobody can help everybody, but everybody can help somebody.
driftless is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-12-2010, 12:57 AM   #24
2 Rivet Member
2016 30' Classic
Issaquah , Washington
Join Date: Feb 2010
Posts: 86
Anode rods should not be used in newer Atwood water heaters. The reason for this is that these water heaters have a protective cladding to protect the tank. If anode rods are used in newer Atwood water heaters, they will void the warranty. I do not know where the cutoff is for "newer" water heaters. For more information you can contact Atwood at: 800-546-8759
PJohnson is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-16-2010, 09:12 AM   #25
3 Rivet Member
1988 25' Excella
Trumbull , Connecticut
Join Date: Oct 2010
Posts: 192
I called Attwood technical dept today and asked about anode rods. attwood said that their water heaters are alunimium and an anode rod is not needed. They also said that putting the anode rod in their water heaters will damage the water heater tank by the anode rod getting welded into the drain threads and being unable to remove it, thus requiring a new tank. The tech also said the people who market the anode rods for attwood water heaters should be sued. Hope this helps Regards nm1oqrz
nm1oqrz is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-16-2010, 09:17 AM   #26
3 Rivet Member
1988 25' Excella
Trumbull , Connecticut
Join Date: Oct 2010
Posts: 192
I forgot to mention that the tech said that attwood water heaters have been alunimum for as long as he can remember so he said the to never use the anode rod in any attwood water heater regardless of age. Regards nm1oqrz
nm1oqrz is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-16-2010, 10:08 AM   #27
Rivet Master
dznf0g's Avatar

2007 30' Classic
Oswego , Illinois
Join Date: Jul 2010
Posts: 8,196
I installed an air compressor tank drain.
dznf0g is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-16-2010, 11:24 AM   #28
Rivet Master
Mikethefixit's Avatar
1977 27' Overlander
Trotwood , Ohio
Join Date: Jul 2007
Posts: 2,153
Send a message via Yahoo to Mikethefixit
I have never had a problem with my petcock on my water heater.Mine is the radiator drain/wingnut type. One thing to remember is these are supposed to be only finger tight. I open the drain cock and the drain valves in the rear of the trailer,raise the tongue .Unhook the fresh water supply,add a length of plastic hose,pump in (because I choose too) 6 1/2 gallons of RV antifreeze. Checking each outlet(Galley sink,shower,lav.,toilet and then the water heater draincock and all run PINK,I'm good to go to -50 below.I know its over kill but that's the easiest for me. I have so far not had a problem.
I do agree that,I wish they had found a more convenient place for a drain ,I cant even see mine,I have to feel for it.

Roger & MaryLou
7.3 liter Power Stroke Diesel
1977 27ft OVERLANDER
AIR # 22336 TAC- OH-7
May your roads be straight and smooth and may you always have a tailwind!
Mikethefixit is offline   Reply With Quote

Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Where is the fresh water drain plug located? bambid Fresh Water Systems 10 06-24-2010 08:47 PM
Fresh water drain plug sticks skipj Fresh Water Systems 16 11-06-2009 06:43 PM
Tool to remove fresh water drain plug willbrackman Fresh Water Systems 5 06-19-2009 10:44 PM
Bowen B10G water heater drain plug lebolewis Furnaces, Heaters, Fireplaces & Air Conditioning 3 09-20-2008 11:49 AM
Atwood water heater drain valve... Safari Tim Water Heaters, Filters & Pumps 5 06-25-2004 08:59 PM

Virginia Campgrounds

Reviews provided by

Our Communities

Our communities encompass many different hobbies and interests, but each one is built on friendly, intelligent membership.

» More about our Communities

Automotive Communities

Our Automotive communities encompass many different makes and models. From U.S. domestics to European Saloons.

» More about our Automotive Communities

Marine Communities

Our Marine websites focus on Cruising and Sailing Vessels, including forums and the largest cruising Wiki project on the web today.

» More about our Marine Communities

Copyright 2002-2015 Social Knowledge, LLC All Rights Reserved.

All times are GMT -6. The time now is 02:37 AM.

Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8 Beta 1
Copyright ©2000 - 2016, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.

Airstream is a registered trademark of Airstream Inc. All rights reserved. Airstream trademark used under license to Social Knowledge LLC.