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Old 05-27-2017, 12:42 AM   #1
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Atwood water heater and anode rod

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2008 safari 25fb. Looks like I need to replace the rusty cover, not sure if that's part of the anode rod. Any advice on the specific parts # and description of that part?
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Old 05-27-2017, 12:48 AM   #2
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That the drain valve, remove it replace with new. It's dark now take photo in daylight for you
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Old 05-27-2017, 05:59 AM   #3
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The hot water heater on "Newer" Airstreams (and I'm not sure if an '08 counts as "newer" in this context) do not have an anode rod. What you are showing is (as previously indicated) the drain valve. It's easily replaced and you should do that soon to avoid having it fuse to the tanks itself.
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Old 05-27-2017, 06:07 AM   #4
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Atwood water heaters have an aluminum tank, no anode rod. Suburban water heater are steel and have the anode rods.
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Old 05-27-2017, 06:45 AM   #5
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I put one of those after market drain valves in mine and it started rusting and leaking within a short time. I pulled it and put the stock plastic threaded plug back in place and no more leaks or rust of course. My 2006 has no anode.
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Old 05-27-2017, 09:21 AM   #6
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https://www.amazon.com/Camco-11703-W...PDZHFNP98DESQT
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Old 05-27-2017, 10:08 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 53flyingcloud View Post
I'd be cautious about putting a brass drain plug into a aluminium tank. Electrolysis will weld the parts together.
I have a similar tank with a plastic (nylon?) plug. I got a socket to fit. If I want to drain it, I just remove the plug, no dissimilar metals!
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Old 05-27-2017, 11:20 AM   #8
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I've run brass in my Atwood WH for over 10 years, with teflon tape, no issues.

I had to cut the remaining nylon plug from the threads when it broke and twisted off during an annual flush out, that is why I went brass.
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Old 05-27-2017, 11:35 AM   #9
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A little Teflon tape on the plastic (or brass) plugs helps prevent breakage down the road.
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Old 05-27-2017, 12:54 PM   #10
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The "original" factory plugs are nylon, and they tend to distort or become damaged during removal. I replaced mine with a pvc 1/2" plug. Hot water deteriorates pvc over time, so you wouldn't do your hot water plumbing with it; however, I've never been able to find a 1/2" cpvc plug. Regular pvc plugs are cheap, maintain their shape, readily available, and it takes several years of regular RV use to adversely impact them. If it bothers you, they can be replaced annually, but it's not necessary.
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Old 05-29-2017, 08:11 PM   #11
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anode rod removal ??

At winterization in january the rv dealer installed an anode rod on my 2017
international tt. Is this a problem and should I remove it in favor of a plastic
plug that was part of original equipment ??
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Old 05-29-2017, 08:13 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mollysdad View Post
I'd be cautious about putting a brass drain plug into a aluminium tank. Electrolysis will weld the parts together.

I have a similar tank with a plastic (nylon?) plug. I got a socket to fit. If I want to drain it, I just remove the plug, no dissimilar metals!


Wrap the thread with teflon problem solved
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Old 05-29-2017, 11:32 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Milo1952 View Post
At winterization in january the rv dealer installed an anode rod on my 2017
international tt. Is this a problem and should I remove it in favor of a plastic
plug that was part of original equipment ??
Yes, if it's an Atwood, get the anode rod out of there. It will cause more corrosion in the aluminum tanks. Put in a plastic plug.

For the op and others. If you have a hard time getting a wrench in there, there are 2 screws holding the center section of the heat shielding above it, by the green wires and down in the lower left corner. The shield comes out easily and makes removing the plug easier.
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Old 05-30-2017, 04:26 AM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HiJoeSilver View Post
Yes, if it's an Atwood, get the anode rod out of there. It will cause more corrosion in the aluminum tanks. Put in a plastic plug.

For the op and others. If you have a hard time getting a wrench in there, there are 2 screws holding the center section of the heat shielding above it, by the green wires and down in the lower left corner. The shield comes out easily and makes removing the plug easier.
Thanks Joe Silver. I presume I will also need to release the pressure (with the valve lever on the top right) before removing the drain cover, is that right?
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Old 05-30-2017, 04:34 AM   #15
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Just open any faucet in the trailer to relieve the pressure. If your drain plug is in such rough shape your pressure relief is probably suspect too. Consider replacing both IMO.

If you can back the small T-handled drain valve out of the plug, you might be able to get a socket on the remaining part, without having to take things apart as Joe suggested. Worth a try anyway. When you install a new plastic drain plug, it is worth the time to get the correct socket and extension. Plus Teflon tape on the threads.

Good luck?

Peter
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Old 05-30-2017, 05:07 AM   #16
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"Good luck!" -- missed the edit time window.
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Old 05-30-2017, 05:16 AM   #17
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"Good luck!" -- missed the edit time window.
Lol...thought it was intentional, which is ptobably appropriate for this case
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