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05-27-2017, 12:42 AM
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#1
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2 Rivet Member
2008 25' Safari FB SE
San Diego
, California
Join Date: Dec 2015
Posts: 90
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Atwood water heater and anode rod
2008 safari 25fb. Looks like I need to replace the rusty cover, not sure if that's part of the anode rod. Any advice on the specific parts # and description of that part?
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05-27-2017, 12:48 AM
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#2
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Rivet Master
1984 29' Sovereign
Savannah
, Missouri
Join Date: Apr 2002
Posts: 3,478
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That the drain valve, remove it replace with new. It's dark now take photo in daylight for you
__________________
WBCCI 5292 AIR 807
NEU #64
New England Unit
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05-27-2017, 05:59 AM
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#3
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Rivet Master
2014 27' FB Eddie Bauer
Chelsea
, Michigan
Join Date: May 2010
Posts: 1,792
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The hot water heater on "Newer" Airstreams (and I'm not sure if an '08 counts as "newer" in this context) do not have an anode rod. What you are showing is (as previously indicated) the drain valve. It's easily replaced and you should do that soon to avoid having it fuse to the tanks itself.
__________________
Bob Martel
WBCCI# 5766
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05-27-2017, 06:07 AM
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#4
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Rivet Master
1993 33' Land Yacht
Midland
, Michigan
Join Date: Sep 2005
Posts: 508
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Atwood water heaters have an aluminum tank, no anode rod. Suburban water heater are steel and have the anode rods.
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05-27-2017, 06:45 AM
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#5
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Rivet Master
2006 23' Safari SE
Biloxi
, Mississippi
Join Date: Nov 2011
Posts: 8,278
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I put one of those after market drain valves in mine and it started rusting and leaking within a short time. I pulled it and put the stock plastic threaded plug back in place and no more leaks or rust of course. My 2006 has no anode.
__________________
MICHAEL
Do you know what a learning experience is? A learning experience is one of those things that says "You know that thing that you just did? Don't do that."
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05-27-2017, 09:21 AM
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#6
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Rivet Master
1984 29' Sovereign
Savannah
, Missouri
Join Date: Apr 2002
Posts: 3,478
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__________________
WBCCI 5292 AIR 807
NEU #64
New England Unit
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05-27-2017, 10:08 AM
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#7
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Rivet Master
2017 26' Flying Cloud
Tampa
, Florida
Join Date: Feb 2017
Posts: 7,620
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 53flyingcloud
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I'd be cautious about putting a brass drain plug into a aluminium tank. Electrolysis will weld the parts together.
I have a similar tank with a plastic (nylon?) plug. I got a socket to fit. If I want to drain it, I just remove the plug, no dissimilar metals!
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05-27-2017, 11:20 AM
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#8
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Home of Vortex tuning
2013 27' FB Eddie Bauer
Spearfish
, South Dakota
Join Date: Dec 2009
Posts: 614
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I've run brass in my Atwood WH for over 10 years, with teflon tape, no issues.
I had to cut the remaining nylon plug from the threads when it broke and twisted off during an annual flush out, that is why I went brass.
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"Chip Tank" is in Westwood Ca.
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05-27-2017, 11:35 AM
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#9
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Rivet Master
2014 20' Flying Cloud
Sag Harbor
, New York
Join Date: Jun 2015
Posts: 17,523
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A little Teflon tape on the plastic (or brass) plugs helps prevent breakage down the road.
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05-27-2017, 12:54 PM
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#10
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3 Rivet Member
2000 25' Excella
Northern
, California
Join Date: Nov 2011
Posts: 247
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The "original" factory plugs are nylon, and they tend to distort or become damaged during removal. I replaced mine with a pvc 1/2" plug. Hot water deteriorates pvc over time, so you wouldn't do your hot water plumbing with it; however, I've never been able to find a 1/2" cpvc plug. Regular pvc plugs are cheap, maintain their shape, readily available, and it takes several years of regular RV use to adversely impact them. If it bothers you, they can be replaced annually, but it's not necessary.
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05-29-2017, 08:11 PM
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#11
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4 Rivet Member
2017 30' International
Lincolnwood
, Illinois
Join Date: Apr 2016
Posts: 312
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anode rod removal ??
At winterization in january the rv dealer installed an anode rod on my 2017
international tt. Is this a problem and should I remove it in favor of a plastic
plug that was part of original equipment ??
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05-29-2017, 08:13 PM
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#12
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Rivet Master
1984 29' Sovereign
Savannah
, Missouri
Join Date: Apr 2002
Posts: 3,478
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mollysdad
I'd be cautious about putting a brass drain plug into a aluminium tank. Electrolysis will weld the parts together.
I have a similar tank with a plastic (nylon?) plug. I got a socket to fit. If I want to drain it, I just remove the plug, no dissimilar metals!
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Wrap the thread with teflon problem solved
__________________
WBCCI 5292 AIR 807
NEU #64
New England Unit
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05-29-2017, 11:32 PM
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#13
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Rivet Master
1974 31' Sovereign
1979 23' Safari
Wayland
, New York
Join Date: Jan 2012
Posts: 1,632
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Milo1952
At winterization in january the rv dealer installed an anode rod on my 2017
international tt. Is this a problem and should I remove it in favor of a plastic
plug that was part of original equipment ??
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Yes, if it's an Atwood, get the anode rod out of there. It will cause more corrosion in the aluminum tanks. Put in a plastic plug.
For the op and others. If you have a hard time getting a wrench in there, there are 2 screws holding the center section of the heat shielding above it, by the green wires and down in the lower left corner. The shield comes out easily and makes removing the plug easier.
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05-30-2017, 04:26 AM
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#14
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2 Rivet Member
2008 25' Safari FB SE
San Diego
, California
Join Date: Dec 2015
Posts: 90
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HiJoeSilver
Yes, if it's an Atwood, get the anode rod out of there. It will cause more corrosion in the aluminum tanks. Put in a plastic plug.
For the op and others. If you have a hard time getting a wrench in there, there are 2 screws holding the center section of the heat shielding above it, by the green wires and down in the lower left corner. The shield comes out easily and makes removing the plug easier.
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Thanks Joe Silver. I presume I will also need to release the pressure (with the valve lever on the top right) before removing the drain cover, is that right?
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05-30-2017, 04:34 AM
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#15
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Rivet Master
2014 20' Flying Cloud
Sag Harbor
, New York
Join Date: Jun 2015
Posts: 17,523
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Just open any faucet in the trailer to relieve the pressure. If your drain plug is in such rough shape your pressure relief is probably suspect too. Consider replacing both IMO.
If you can back the small T-handled drain valve out of the plug, you might be able to get a socket on the remaining part, without having to take things apart as Joe suggested. Worth a try anyway. When you install a new plastic drain plug, it is worth the time to get the correct socket and extension. Plus Teflon tape on the threads.
Good luck?
Peter
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05-30-2017, 05:07 AM
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#16
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Rivet Master
2014 20' Flying Cloud
Sag Harbor
, New York
Join Date: Jun 2015
Posts: 17,523
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"Good luck!" -- missed the edit time window.
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05-30-2017, 05:16 AM
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#17
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2 Rivet Member
2008 25' Safari FB SE
San Diego
, California
Join Date: Dec 2015
Posts: 90
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OTRA15
"Good luck!" -- missed the edit time window.
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Lol...thought it was intentional, which is ptobably appropriate for this case
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