Is the flame directly under the thermocouple sensor? Can you adjust the flame a bit higher?
I had a problem with a Bowen water heater, the valve had to be turned just slightly back from "normal" operating position so the pilot would stay lit.
I had one that was a manuel hwh it did the same even after I replaced t-couple. So I felt that maybe wind might be the problem so I folded some aluminum up flat and put it under corner of burner between door and body. I had no more problems.
Same advice as above. Also, check for corrision where the thermocouple connects to the controller. Is the pilot gas line clean from the controller to the burner? If the pilot light lights initially then goes out when you release the controller knob, the problem is most likely electrical and may be internal in the controller. Have you tried adjusting the pilot light flame? There's a threaded cap on the controller with a small screw underneath that adjusts the size of the flame. Just moving that screw open and closed a turn might clean out any blockage. Usually, this doesn't happen if you use the water heater regularly. Long periods of no use encourages corrision. Any other pilot lights in the trailer giving you trouble? If so, maybe there's too much moisture in the propane. Darol
Same advice as above. Also, check for corrision where the thermocouple connects to the controller. Is the pilot gas line clean from the controller to the burner? If the pilot light lights initially then goes out when you release the controller knob, the problem is most likely electrical and may be internal in the controller. Have you tried adjusting the pilot light flame? There's a threaded cap on the controller with a small screw underneath that adjusts the size of the flame. Just moving that screw open and closed a turn might clean out any blockage. Usually, this doesn't happen if you use the water heater regularly. Long periods of no use encourages corrision. Any other pilot lights in the trailer giving you trouble? If so, maybe there's too much moisture in the propane. Darol
The new thermocoupler came with a new pilot gas line.
When you say electrical I guess you mean withing the valve body, maybe I should open that up to see if there's any corrosion in there?
THat's really the only other part in there, anyone know about what's in there to check, or should I just replace it?
__________________
Bob
'77 Sovereign Intl 31' CB '07 GMC 4x4 2500HD EC 8.1 Allision six | Bedrug | Softopper
WBCCI Time's a-changing Say no to Lawrence Welk attitudes Defendwally.org
The way the thermocouple works is the heat generates electrical current within the unit. If there is corrosion on the thermocouple bolts to the pilot assembly, it may not be getting good contact.
The suggestions so far may resolve your problem. HOWEVER, I thought Atwood and Suburban are different manufacturers.
They ARE different. Atwood Mobile Products makes the Atwoof water heaters and furnaces and Suburbans are made by RV Products.
__________________ Lew Farber -Certified Master RV Tech (currently on Forums posting sabbatical, but lurking in the background ) WBCCI #1456 and about to resign!/VAC (assoc) #1456/ AIR # 10325 TAC# OR-1 CHARTER MEMBER: FOUR CORNERS UNIT
I had the same problem once after replacing the thermocouple. The suggestions here were mostly the same as above. The one that worked for me, however, was to tighten it VERY tightly. When I first installed it, I tightened it to what I would normally thought was tight. I went back & cranked on it again. After that, it stayed lit. By the way, Andy from Inland suggested that. I think he knows his stuff!
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