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Old 06-25-2007, 10:35 PM   #1
'67 Safari -Pocket Waffle
 
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1967 22' Safari
Seattle , Washington
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Atwood HW Heater for 67' Safari

Hello,

I am nowhere near my dear Safari, and I would like to order an Atwood HW heater before I see her again. Can anyone out there tell me what size HW heater would replace the original on a Safari?

Cheers, Adair
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Old 06-26-2007, 01:55 AM   #2
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1966 24' Tradewind
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I just replaced our water heater in our '66 TradeWind. I got the Atwood 6 gallon propane/electric pilot. It takes up a little less space than the old 6 gal. Bowen. I had considered the 10 gallon but after solicitating advice on this Forum decided the 6 gal would be plenty for us. You will have to readapt the old Bowen exterior panel....can't use the old door. I took photos of my step by step procedure and plan to create a thread soon.

Neil and Lynn
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Old 06-26-2007, 08:02 AM   #3
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When the dealer I bought my '66 from replaced the Bowen with the Atwood, they added an aluminum facing panel around the hole, as the opening for the Atwood needs to be smaller.

and we chose the 6 gallon.
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Old 06-26-2007, 10:16 AM   #4
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Many thanks,

I will go with the 6 gallon tank as well. making a new face plate/hatch cover should be no problem. Thank you for the advice.

Cheers, Adair
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Old 07-02-2007, 10:24 AM   #5
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Well,

Removing the old HW heater was no difficulty, until it came time to get it out of the little closet it is in, and I realized what a headache this would be. I don't see anyway to pull the hot water heater without removing cabinetry. What a drag. It really seemed straight forward, but now it has become quite involved. One more design flaw for the guys at the drafting board for this old tin can.

-A.
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Old 07-03-2007, 03:56 PM   #6
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Check your options

Quote:
Originally Posted by Adair
Well,

Removing the old HW heater was no difficulty, until it came time to get it out of the little closet it is in, and I realized what a headache this would be. I don't see anyway to pull the hot water heater without removing cabinetry. What a drag. It really seemed straight forward, but now it has become quite involved. One more design flaw for the guys at the drafting board for this old tin can.

-A.
The water heater on my '67 Airstream is removed from the outside.

Tom
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Old 07-03-2007, 04:52 PM   #7
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1967 22' Safari
1960 Caravel
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We didn't have to remove our water heater until we were finished with our renovations (because it worked beautifully until we went on a week-long trip). We removed ours from the outside. I can't say I have pleasant memories of it, but it can be done.
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Old 07-06-2007, 12:17 AM   #8
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I can't even imagine how you guys pulled through the outside. The hole in the inner skin on mine is only large enough to recieve the burner compartment. The tank would never go. I guess I'll have to take some photos tomorrow when I have a chance to work on it again. I've been proven wrong before.

-Adair
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Old 07-06-2007, 04:50 AM   #9
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Drill out some interior rivets

Quote:
Originally Posted by Adair
... The hole in the inner skin on mine is only large enough to recieve the burner compartment. ...
I'll bet your Airstream is Onio-built like mine. If you look closely on the inside, you will notice three pieces of interior-skin cut-offs framing the water heater hole.

In other words, the factory cut the exterior & interior skins' hole at the same time with the same bit, slid the water heater into the opening from the outside, then trimmed-out the interior skin.

Disassembly is the reverse of the above.

Tom
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Old 07-07-2007, 09:45 PM   #10
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Tom W, you were correct, that was exactly how the water heater was installed. Once I drilled out those rivets from inside, it slipped right out of the opening. It was a piece of cake. My eternal gratitude for pointing that out.

Now to run new water lines since my atwood replacement inlet and outlet are on the back of the unit and not the side.

Cheers, Adair
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Old 07-12-2007, 09:39 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Adair
Tom W, you were correct, that was exactly how the water heater was installed. Once I drilled out those rivets from inside, it slipped right out of the opening. It was a piece of cake. My eternal gratitude for pointing that out.

Now to run new water lines since my atwood replacement inlet and outlet are on the back of the unit and not the side.

Cheers, Adair
Here is the plumbing installation in my Trade Wind. I cut the hot and cold copper lines at the Ts then installed Shark Bite adapters to which SB 90's were screwed onto. This was done before placing the new Atwood in. Also before sliding the WH I installed a winterizing by-pass kit to it with it's SB 90s for the hot and cold Pex. Then slid in the Atwood, anchored it, cut the Pex tubing to length and slid those into the Shark Bite connections. No skinned knuckles, no taking to Lord's name in vain, thank you very much. Oh, and no leaks!

Neil.

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Old 07-12-2007, 10:24 PM   #12
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Neil,

Would you care to explain the winterizing bypass? That one is new to me. The SB 90 that you refer to, am I correct to assume that is a Shark Bite threaded fitting of a certain size? I only just encountered the shark bit style fittings, and they seem pretty handy. I would very much appreciate a little more detail about your install so that I don't overlook anything.

Cheers, Adair
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Old 07-12-2007, 11:11 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Adair
Neil,

Would you care to explain the winterizing bypass? That one is new to me. The SB 90 that you refer to, am I correct to assume that is a Shark Bite threaded fitting of a certain size? I only just encountered the shark bit style fittings, and they seem pretty handy. I would very much appreciate a little more detail about your install so that I don't overlook anything.

Cheers, Adair
OOOH, I wish I saved the Shark Bite packaging. I'm not sure of their web site. Someone help here.... Let me try. The Shark Bite fittings will work on your old copper (if it hasn't expanded too much) tubing and the Pex. I totally allowed my Helpfull Ace Hardware man guide me with the correct fittings for my application. First a SB fitting was connected to the severed copper tubing that routed the main water source to the WH. The other end of that SB fitting is male threaded to which a 90* SB female threaded on one end, is screwed onto it. The 'bite' end is for the Pex. The other end of the Pex will be another 90* SB screwed into the WH bypass. The same is repeated for the hot water tubing side. It is possible you won't need 90s especially if you are not installing a bypass. Pex though somewhat flexible will not always bend where you want and you will need angle fittings. All of my fittings and tubing are 1/2".
Ok, now maybe I can explain the by-pass. The bypass prevents the antifreeze we run through our plumbing from filling up the water heater. A valve on the by-pass will direct that antifreeze solution past it. There is no need to fill the water heater with 6-10 gallons of anti-freeze. The antifreeze is introduced into the system through another valve and tubing before the water pump. Your WH and fresh water tank should be empty. What little water in them that freezes has room to expand and won't do damage.
I hope I have explained this adequately. You might 'Search' Shark Bite, Winterize Bypass and Pex and perhaps get clearer explanations. But I will help you where I can.

Neil.
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Old 07-13-2007, 09:40 AM   #14
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Neil,

That was a great help, and the photo makes it all very clear. I have been intriagued by the shark bite fittings and it looks like now I will have a chance to give them a run for their money. I probably won't tackle this over the weekend, since I have propane lines to do, but it should happen next weekend.

Cheers, Adair
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