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Old 09-24-2006, 12:27 PM   #1
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Any PLUMBERS out there?? Pressure regulator, water pump questions

We are replacing the entire water system in my 1976 ARGOSY 24 with PEX.

The attached photo is of the 30-year-old pressure regulator, set at 45 psi. Are there more modern, smaller sized regulators available now?

The check or overflow valve next in line after the water exits the regulator: what function does it serve?

If Iím describing the regulator as ď30 year oldĒ, perhaps implying a new one will be better, doesnít that go for the water pump too?

The current one is a PAR type IV Model 36975-1060. Flow rate 2.8 US, 2.3 Canadian gallons per minute.

It doesnít say what pressure. I assume 45 if the regulator was 45 pounds.

What is the best new pump out there?

Do I assume that if I get a pump rated at 65 psi that I will need a new matching pressure regulator in any case?

Thanks in advance for suggestions and help.

Sergei



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Old 09-24-2006, 12:48 PM   #2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SmokelessJoe
We are replacing the entire water system in my 1976 ARGOSY 24 with PEX.

The attached photo is of the 30-year-old pressure regulator, set at 45 psi. Are there more modern, smaller sized regulators available now?

The check or overflow valve next in line after the water exits the regulator: what function does it serve?

If I’m describing the regulator as “30 year old”, perhaps implying a new one will be better, doesn’t that go for the water pump too?

The current one is a PAR type IV Model 36975-1060. Flow rate 2.8 US, 2.3 Canadian gallons per minute.

It doesn’t say what pressure. I assume 45 if the regulator was 45 pounds.

What is the best new pump out there?

Do I assume that if I get a pump rated at 65 psi that I will need a new matching pressure regulator in any case?

Thanks in advance for suggestions and help.

Sergei



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The attached photo is of to sethe 30-year-old pressure regulator, set at 45 psi. Are there more modern, smaller sized regulators available now?
The old Watts Regulator was state of the art at that time, and guess what it still is. Pressure regulators have not changed too much. If your old Watts is still regulating and not leaking use it. You would be hard pressed to get anything better. IMHO

The check or overflow valve next in line after the water exits the regulator: what function does it serve? I think you are talking about the back flow preventor. Keeps the trailer water system from flowing back into city water.

If I’m describing the regulator as “30 year old”, perhaps implying a new one will be better, doesn’t that go for the water pump too? Newer pumps are better. Higher flow with lower current draw. Go with a new one.

The current one is a PAR type IV Model 36975-1060. Flow rate 2.8 US, 2.3 Canadian gallons per minute.

It doesn’t say what pressure. I assume 45 if the regulator was 45 pounds.

What is the best new pump out there? ??????

Do I assume that if I get a pump rated at 65 psi that I will need a new matching pressure regulator in any case? No, your pressure regulator drops the water pressure to 45psi. This is a good pressure at a faucet.
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Old 09-24-2006, 01:18 PM   #3
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Originally Posted by Janet's Husband
The attached photo is of to sethe 30-year-old pressure regulator, set at 45 psi. Are there more modern, smaller sized regulators available now?
The old Watts Regulator was state of the art at that time, and guess what it still is. Pressure regulators have not changed too much. If your old Watts is still regulating and not leaking use it. You would be hard pressed to get anything better. IMHO

The check or overflow valve next in line after the water exits the regulator: what function does it serve? I think you are talking about the back flow preventor. Keeps the trailer water system from flowing back into city water.

If Iím describing the regulator as ď30 year oldĒ, perhaps implying a new one will be better, doesnít that go for the water pump too? Newer pumps are better. Higher flow with lower current draw. Go with a new one.

The current one is a PAR type IV Model 36975-1060. Flow rate 2.8 US, 2.3 Canadian gallons per minute.

It doesnít say what pressure. I assume 45 if the regulator was 45 pounds.

What is the best new pump out there? ??????

Do I assume that if I get a pump rated at 65 psi that I will need a new matching pressure regulator in any case? No, your pressure regulator drops the water pressure to 45psi. This is a good pressure at a faucet.

I would replace the regulator with a new Watts, no worries for another 30 years.

Jim
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Old 09-24-2006, 02:29 PM   #4
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Sergei,
In actuallity, the WATTS water pressure regulator is for the outside water source only. it regulates the pressure of the water coming in. The water pump draws water from the water tank, should only be used with the outside water pressure turned OFF, The pump has it's own pressure regulater built in. It is set to shut off at a certain psi and come on at a somewhat less psi, thereby keeping a somewhat steady flow of water for the shower, water spigot, etc.
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Old 09-24-2006, 02:46 PM   #5
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Hi SmoklessJoe--I removed my Watts city water pressure regulator 18-years ago as it had a small freezer crack compliments of the PO. I replaced it with a $8.XX Marshall Brass pressure regulator which screws onto the the city water outlet, prior to my white inlet water hose to the A/S. It is preset to 40/45psi and also protects the white hose. You already have answers, above, to how the back flow check valve works, which I left original.--Frank S
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Old 09-24-2006, 04:14 PM   #6
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Thanks Gary, Jim, Steelbird and Frank for your help.

(This is not the first time Janetís Husband has helped on my project and I appreciate that).

Iíve decided to buy the SHURFLO ďSmart SensorĒ 4 gpm pump. It seems to have the best combination of low noise factor, highest psi and lowest amp draw.

Iíll take a look at regulators, keeping in mind Garyís and Jimís opposite opinions and Frankís interesting new twist.

Steelbird, thanks for pointing out the obvious: the water regulator regulates only the incoming city water. In a long, drawn-out renovation like mine one sometimes loses oneís ability to think logically.

Thanks all.


Sergei
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Old 10-05-2006, 09:03 PM   #7
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Friends:

My Argosy didn't have a shut-off between the holding tank and the original pump.

Would it be a good or bad idea to install one when putting in the new Shurflo?

Thanks.

Sergei
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Old 10-05-2006, 09:25 PM   #8
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Why not put in a 3-way valve, then you can suck antifreeze through the pump, and be able to shut off the tank also.
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Old 10-06-2006, 06:32 AM   #9
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I agree with Markdoane. Put in a three way valve. The BEST way to winterize a trailer, takes 10 minutes, and you will never have a frozen pipe ( only if you use it). Also, while you are doing the total replumbing of your trailer, put a bypass at your water heater, that way you don't run 6 gal of antifreeze into your hot water heater.
Total winterizing: drain the hot water heater
turn the bypass valve at the water heater
open a jug of antifreeze, and insert hose from 3 way valve
open each water outlet until it runs pink (remember the toilet and the sprayer)
YOU"RE THROUGH!!!!
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Old 10-06-2006, 03:51 PM   #10
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Steelbird; Markdoane:

Thanks for the suggestions. I will follow both of them but I need help in understanding how to do it.

Can someone make a drawing of both systems for me?

2-way:

I donít have a valve yet but am looking at a picture of one.

There are three ports. One is at the top. Do I assume water enters at the top and is diverted left or right, depending which way you turn the lever?

If so, how do you make this work ďin lineĒ, between the holding tank and the water pump?

How does the antifreeze get introduced to the valve?

By-pass

Do you simply install Tís and shut-offs at the cold line going in and hot line coming out of the water heater, then connect the two Tís, having a third shut-off in the connecting line?

Would TWO 2 ways used instead of 2 Tís and 3 shut-offs work and be a more elegant solution?

Help gratefully received.

Sergei





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Old 10-06-2006, 04:10 PM   #11
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2 way-
You have one common and two switchable ports. Cut the line between the water tank and the pump. Hook the common to the hose to the pump. Connect one of the switch lines to the line from the water tank. The other switched line will have a cap on it most of the time. When you winterize you remove the cap and install a short hose. Switch the valve to this port and suck your anti-freeze solution though this hose.

By pass-
The two ways with a line between them is what the PO of my trailer did.

BTW, I do not winterize my trailer
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Old 10-06-2006, 10:05 PM   #12
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New to an RV but many years on my boat, I just add the antifreze (pink stuff) to the water tank when just pump it thru all the faucets, that also gets it in the drains.

I do this until I empty the water tank.
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Old 10-06-2006, 10:18 PM   #13
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Bob:

Since I am redoing the entire plumbing system, stem to stern, it will be less expensive to put in a by pass at the water heater now then to pay for 6 gallons of additional anti freeze every year.

Sergei
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Old 10-07-2006, 08:12 AM   #14
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Quote:
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New to an RV but many years on my boat, I just add the antifreze (pink stuff) to the water tank when just pump it thru all the faucets, that also gets it in the drains.

I do this until I empty the water tank.
I think that most people who winterize (I do not ) do not want to deal with getting the antifreeze out of the main tank.
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