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Old 11-16-2006, 09:56 AM   #29
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Bob, I bought the cheap pressure gauge at a local big box. It was shrunk wrapped onto a plain chunk of cardboard with only the name of the company and “Delvan, Wisconsin”. That’s all. Not a word about specs, origin, installation.

I thought I could connect it using one of those flexible sink risers that I had at the job but it wouldn’t fit.

I realized then that if I’m going to spend more time and money running around trying to find out if either my regulator or relief valve is shot I could just as cheaply have a brand new one. I’m buying a new regulator with a built in dial. See above.

Chuck, Steelbird. Your analysis of why the relief valve / what it does makes sense. I didn’t understand at first because it is mounted in the COLD line, just down stream of the regulator. But water heating in the water heater would expand and put a backpressure on the cold coming in to it, right?

If so, I do need a relief valve in my new system.

This is a brand new plumbing system going into a stripped bare trailer. I don’t have appliances, faucets, etc. installed.

So far, what is in place is what’s photographed above. I hooked the hot and cold into a “loop” so that I could pressurize the lines and test everything before I go on to the next stage.

Today I will continue joining the existing set up to the water heater and then to the water pump and tank.

I want to devise a method to plumb the holding tank into the onboard cold supply so that I can fill it with just a twist of a valve.

Juel, sounds like you have an overflow problem similar to my situation. I would follow your instinct to elevate the converter. That makes sense if the INTELLIPOWER is in an area were a leak could develop.


Sergei
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Old 11-16-2006, 09:11 PM   #30
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Markdoane, in your photo above:

Is that brass T in the upper left hand corner, the one with the hose barb, a relief valve?

If so, what type and where did you get it?

What function does a relief valve serve? Is it a necessity or an added touch in a trailer?

Anyone else who might know please feel free to answer.

Sergei
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Old 11-16-2006, 09:46 PM   #31
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Sergei,

No, the tee in the upper left is where the coldwater line from the pump joins up with the city supply water line from the regulator. The open end of the tee is where the cold water line will continue back to the rear bathroom.

Regarding a pressure relief valve, I don't know if you need one or not. There is normally one on your water heater, but it is usually set to pop at 120psi. Can your plumbing sytem handle that much pressure? There are a few other reasons to put in a relief valve, but I don't see one (other than on the water heater) in the current piping diagrams from Airstream.

Here's another picture of my piping system, and the outside access panel. I'm pretty proud of how it turned out. There is a city water inlet, a hot water faucet, an inlet for the tankflusher, a cold water spigot, and a control lanyard for the macerator pump and tank flusher solenoid valve.
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Old 11-17-2006, 12:20 AM   #32
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Intellipower..

I too worried about water.... so I mounted mine up on two blocks of 2x4's.... it'll be hard for the water to get up 2"..... if it is, I want an Arc.
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Old 11-17-2006, 09:33 AM   #33
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I'm not sure about the pop-off valve, either, but I suspect its because there are multiple possible scenarios where you could have an over-pressure situation. the water heater, although it has its own...the fact that the whole system in a trailer is small, and therefore, pressure will build much faster than say, in a house. If you leave the trailer parked, and forget to turn off the water heater, for example, it might be days before someone opens a valve and releases the built up pressure...what if the pressure switch on your pump fails, or is set too high?

I heard several people at a recent rally comment that they had "problems" when they hooked up to the water...apparently, the pressure was very hight. I'm not sure exactly what happened. Now that I think of it, they might have all been late-model owners...can't remember specifically. (didn't someone say that they don't put that type of regulator in the trailers anymore?). Anyway, the point is that there is a potential for problems.

Mark: very cool 'service' entrance. What's the deal with the tank flusher? looks like it comes in, then goes right back out. (?)
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Old 11-17-2006, 11:10 AM   #34
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chuck
Mark: very cool 'service' entrance. What's the deal with the tank flusher? looks like it comes in, then goes right back out. (?)
I agree on the other possible needs for a pop-off valve. Especially if you have an older belt drive pump.

The tank flusher looks like it goes back out, but it actually is going into a right angle solenoid valve. The tubing away from the solenoid isn't installed yet.
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Old 11-17-2006, 10:26 PM   #35
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The Cape Cod manufacturer wrote today saying that they’d shipped my new water pressure regulator by US Post; could I send a cheque when I have time and “ good luck with your Airstream project”.

That’s a nice old-fashioned way to run a business.

I also bought an inexpensive fitting at the hardware store and hooked up the pressure gauge.

As I thought, my home pressure is 70 psi.

Next I plumbed a new check valve and the old relief valve into the line.

When I hooked up the water again the relief valve produced a steady stream that I estimate was the difference between its 60 pound setting and the 70 psi town water supply.

So that probably explains what has happened. My Watts regulator was likely not maintaining the 45 psi on the label. When I lived in my trailer for 10 days a year ago, the campground water pressure was probably below 45 pounds so I wouldn’t have noticed anything ‘till now.

I ran into Charlie Jackson, the 78 year old plumber at the hardware store and showed him my relief valve. He said he never uses them.

I installed mine anyway. The Indel water heater releases at 80 psi but the extra valve gives one more level of protection.

The PEX is rated for 125 psi.

Sergei
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Old 11-18-2006, 09:17 PM   #36
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Some questions for Markdoane

The work you are doing is very nice stuff.

What type of plumbing system are you using; the neat looking burgundy and brass stuff?

What was your reasoning behind plumbing hot water to your good looking access hatch?

I did something similar, having had a “waste management compartment” built just after my street side rear wheel.

It houses the macerator and the connection to the tank washer. I have a hose standard there for hand washing and to supply the tank-washing inlet. (I have a double check valve on the tap).

I can add hot water to the compartment if your reason for using it strikes me as useful enough.


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Old 11-18-2006, 10:14 PM   #37
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Joe,

Good idea on the double check on the tank flusher, but you also should have a vacuum breaker/anti-siphon, mounted 12" above the black tank. You can usually do this inside the bathroom vanity, if it is located adjacent to the blacktank.

The piping system I'm using is regular PEX with the crimp rings. I'm using regular crosslinked PEX tubing, but not the gaudy red and blue stuff.

The hot water spigot in my water service panel is rather accidental. The low point of my hot water main is right next to the water panel. I was going to put in a drain valve and drain through the belly pan, but it was simpler (and closer) to run it to the water panel. So it's really just a low point drain.

But it also would let me take a shower outside, or use hot water to give my black tank a really thorough cleaning.
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Old 11-19-2006, 11:42 AM   #38
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Minnesota Mark:

Thanks for the reply.

Good idea on the double check on the tank flusher, but you also should have a vacuum breaker/anti-siphon, mounted 12" above the black tank. You can usually do this inside the bathroom vanity, if it is located adjacent to the black tank.

We used the No Fuss Flush out of the Camping World catalog. I assumed it’s the same No Flush that AIRSTREAM uses but it is cheap looking stuff, almost a weal link in my better system.

Can you send me a picture of what a vacuum breaker/anti-siphon looks like?

The bumph on the No Flush says that it has a safety back-flow built in. My tap in the compartment has a built in back-flow they say. But I didn’t want to take a chance so I put an accessory one on the tap. That makes three back-flows in total!


But it also would let me take a shower outside, or use hot water to give my black tank a really thorough cleaning.


While the belly pan is off and I’m doing the plumbing I might just add a hot tap to my compartment. It would be easily done now and never done later, if you know what I mean.

The photo shows the current state of my undercarriage plumbing. The black tank is to the upper left; grey the larger one to the right. The yellow hoses are the heater lines to the tanks. The drains run to a common outlet in the aluminum compartment, were the macerator is housed. The white poly is the No Flush line.




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Old 11-19-2006, 12:34 PM   #39
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Joe,

Below is a picture of a Sloan atmoshperic vacuum breaker. It is model #V-370-A 3/8. I tried to make a very fancy portrait, like Andy's picture of the brake magnets, but it came a little less than professional.

I am using a "Tornado" tank flusher. I don't know what Airstream uses, but I think it is either a No Fuss or a Tornado. They're all just cheap plastic.

I would recommend a vacuum breaker, but it's your trailer. I plan to keep a spray bottle of dis-infectant in my water connection panel, but you can't be too careful with cross-connections and backflow preventers.

Regardless, when I travel I drink only stuff out of a bottle. No sense taking chances.
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Old 11-19-2006, 04:19 PM   #40
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Hi markdoane--We have always used water out of a bottle to drink. We have never liked to idea of drinking water that has come through the hose, plumbing, or out of the onboard water tank. We do our best to keep these clean, however there are just too many potential problems, to drink this water. We use 6 square liter plastic bottles (from bottled water) which we keep in a box, we made from cardboard and duct tape, under the kitchen sink. When it it time to refill we take the box out to the city water pipe, where we have a faucet connection in conjuction with our hose connection, and fill the bottles. Handy to have a bottle on the picnic table when we are outside.--Frank S
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Old 11-19-2006, 05:36 PM   #41
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Steelbird, Markdoane, azflycaster, anyone:

I have two 2-way valves and I’m trying to figure out how to by-pass my water heater using them.

I can’t undo the puzzle.

Can anyone help, perhaps with a sketch or photo?

(I have ONE 2 way in my 3/4” hydronic system and I have been able to figure that out. But when I try to figure using Two 2 Ways together in the water system, I get confused).

Somebody please help.


Thanks.


Sergei
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Old 11-19-2006, 06:12 PM   #42
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Sergei,

Not sure what you mean. Can you provide a photo of the 2-way valve? Normally you would use a couple of 3-way valves. If you want to do it with 2-ways, I think you would need at least three valves.
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