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Old 12-05-2010, 01:18 PM   #1
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1984 31' Excella
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'84 Excella water heater replacement

Need to replace water heater in 84 Excella. Trailer has a middle bathroom. Can anybody tell me what model Atwood water heater would fit, or point me to someone who can? Thanks
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Old 12-05-2010, 01:25 PM   #2
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The Attwood 6 gal unit should be a direct replacement.....
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Old 12-05-2010, 02:26 PM   #3
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Thanks for the help!
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Old 09-04-2011, 07:46 AM   #4
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Can you tell me how dificult of a job this was as I have an 83 I need to do the same thing to 31' center bath
Don
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Old 09-04-2011, 12:27 PM   #5
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I did a WH replacement on a 87 Excella. The 6 gallon Atwood was a direct replacement on mine. I opted for the DSI and the 110 heater. Old one had DSI, so the wiring for that was in place I opted to put a plug on the 110 and I plug it in directly to campsite 110.
The screw holes in the new and old one even lined up. I used the old Al cover instead of the white steel on the new one. The 110 heater takes a little more space at the back of the heater near the bed, but there was room for it. I opted to replace the stub on the gas line to make it easier. I already had a flare tool, so that was a cheap option for me. Used pex and crimps. Had to enlarge the hole in the bath wall to put in the new switch. Used Vulcum around the heater and new SS screws.
New heater functions perfectly. Thermostats work and are at a good temperature. One of my easier and more productive airstream repairs.
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Old 09-05-2011, 05:44 AM   #6
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Are the water lines flexable enough to pull the heater out after removing the screws on the side of the trailer to disconnect them , or do you have to remove the toilet to get to them ? I want to replace it with the DSI as that's what I have I am not going to get the 110 V electric option . How long did the whole job take you ? I will purchase an Atwood 6 gallon Same as I have now . Should be a direct replacment. Is there enough slack in the wires to get it out to work on them ? The gas line has a union under the trailer so I can see where I would seperate it there and disconnect it from the heater . It is dripping water and without being able to see in behind it I'm assuming it is leaking . It needs a new circut board and ignitor rather than to spend that money I figured I would replace it with a new one.
Don
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Old 09-05-2011, 05:51 AM   #7
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I thought I was ready to take a trip I have been going through this trailer for 6 months in my spare time going through everything then I noticed the water leaking after I filled the water system to check that part out and replaced the water pump . It's always something with them isn't it . Better now than on the road I guess.
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Old 09-05-2011, 07:59 AM   #8
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No, I do not think the plumbing or the wires are long enough to pull the heater out still connected. I just cut the pex and disconnected the wire terminals to start. I could access my heater easily since it is under the bed next to the shower. On an Airstream, I have come to the conclusion that it takes as long as it takes to do a job. Nothing goes fast. Might take you 3 hours, or it might take 3 hours to get to one wire.
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Old 09-05-2011, 04:39 PM   #9
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Thank you for getting back to me but I checked it over today There is a panel in the bathroom beside the toilet I can remove and disconnect the plumbing & wires Unscrew it from the outside and it looks like it should come out ( best case sceniro) I am sure it won't go all that easy but I think I can do it . I will take pictures so others can see how I had to do it It may help someone .
Don
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Old 09-05-2011, 06:51 PM   #10
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replacement

We did this on an '89 Excella 29'. Like yours. We removed the toilet to gain better access. The panel below the sink cabinet gives easier access to plumbing and wires. There was some slack in the wires. Plumbing NOT so much. Remove the screws, use a putty knife to loosen the front seal and it should come out the side of the trailer. We opted for the 110 upgrade. It required an additional half an inch of depth so we had to move the front frame on the sink inboard to allow for the electric heat element feature. We spend alot of time plugged in and it made sense for us to upgrade. It took about 6 hrs. and it was a 3 beer frustration level.
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Old 09-06-2011, 07:33 AM   #11
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Thank s for the imput I don't like to be rushed on these projects and I want to go away on the 15 th . It will probably take a week to get the new heater here so it really doesn't leave much time to complete the job I don't want to start the job until I have the new one in hand . We'll just go with it as is for now I guess .
Thank You your reply was helpful.
Don
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Old 09-06-2011, 09:45 AM   #12
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do you think the wh itself is what is leaking? those things are Al. Can you tell if it is just a leak from one of the fittings or lines. The wh is very light weight and some of these companies ship quick.
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Old 09-11-2011, 11:09 AM   #13
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Well I removed the water heater I have taken pictures which I will post when I complete the project It turned out going much easier than I thought . The heater after un screwed from the sidewall can be removed through the sidewall with the wires and pipes attached completely out then you can cut the wires and plastic tubing . I used a curved bar along the bottom prying against the bananna wrap where the plywood meets and pulled with vise grips on the top as you cannot pry there without damaging the sidewall . The original sealant is very tough stuff . I have purchased two barbed fittings which I will insert in the plastic tubing ( 1/2 inch) and clamp them I can access them from under the bathroom sink The wires can be re connected using electrical wire nuts and taped . I will reseal the heater using butalflex caulking as I don't know what else to use . This is a simple 6 gallon heater Gas only and electronic start . I hope this information helps someone . Good thing I changed it because the tank was leaking . I bought it from a mail order company and I had it in 2 days which supprised me but I was very pleased .
Don
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Old 09-11-2011, 11:49 AM   #14
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Originally Posted by Don.44 View Post
I have purchased two barbed fittings which I will insert in the plastic tubing ( 1/2 inch) and clamp them I can access them from under the bathroom sink
Don
Don: I would not be too confident that the barbed fittings and clamps will seal with what is probably gray poly (pre PEX) line in your trailer. The gray poly pipe needs special fittings to seal properly. It is too rigid to use with barbed fittings and clamps. You might consider Sharkbite type from Home Depot, or the White plastic RV type fittings available at a trailer supply place (forgot their exact name). Quest is another fitting which will work.
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