2012 25FB HW Element Replacement

[rhensley]

Greetings,


The HW element in my Atwood GE-9 EXT has went out, and I've been trying to figure out how to replace it. I have the new element, and have figured out the element is is the back of the tank.



I also found the hidden compartment in the bottom door that allows some limited access to the back of the HW heater. BUT, I can't figure out any way to access the element to replace it other than sliding the HW heater partially out from the outside of the trailer.


I've used the search function on the forum, internet search, and browsed this forum as much as I had the patience for, and no mention of anyone replacing it themselves. We're currently in Yuma for another three weeks, but won't be able to take the AS back to the dealer in SLC until around the middle of May if I can't replace it myself.



Has anyone done this themselves, and if so, what was the methodology?


Regards,
Ron

[drobert33]

Originally Posted by rhensley

Greetings,


The HW element in my Atwood GE-9 EXT has went out, and I've been trying to figure out how to replace it. I have the new element, and have figured out the element is is the back of the tank.



I also found the hidden compartment in the bottom door that allows some limited access to the back of the HW heater. BUT, I can't figure out any way to access the element to replace it other than sliding the HW heater partially out from the outside of the trailer.


I've used the search function on the forum, internet search, and browsed this forum as much as I had the patience for, and no mention of anyone replacing it themselves. We're currently in Yuma for another three weeks, but won't be able to take the AS back to the dealer in SLC until around the middle of May if I can't replace it myself.



Has anyone done this themselves, and if so, what was the methodology?


Regards,
Ron

We are in pretty much the same ‘boat’: 2017 FC 25 FB. The water heater is under a closet & halfway under the bed. It works fine on gas but when switched to electric the lockout light btwn the on/off switches comes on and stays on. We are on the road so called in the local mobile RV guy and he poked around with his meter for a while and announced that the ‘stinger’ was gone, a.k.a. the heating element. Virtually impossible to get at because access is blocked by woodwork. Is that legal? Anyway, since the gas side works fine I’ll wait until we get home and just remove some cabinetry, part of the bed frame; should be easier than removing the water heater itself. It’s just carpentry and the heating element is not expensive & just screws into place. I think I’ll try to do it myself although our dealer does sterling work (CanAm RV in London, Ontario). If I hit a snag I’ll drag it over to them. The left side panel of our outside storage compartment looks suspiciously removable ... hmm.

[GCinSC2]

Just curious, any chance for a pic showing access to element?

[lsbrodsky]

I think I posted on this a couple of years ago. I had to do this job on my 25FB. Between the bed and the wardrobe, at the floor, is a piece of plywood trim that could have been installed with catches, but instead is installed with pocket screws from the WH side.. I though about cutting the screws with a Sawzall but chose not to do so. Yes, Airstream provided no inside access to the WH element.
So, I had to pull the water heater most of the way out, from the outside and still go through a bunch of contortions to get a wrench on the element and remove it. The cause of my failure was a poor connection from the romex to the element wiring. If I ever have to do this again, I will cut out the trim piece and attempt to access the WH from the inside.
Larry

[lsbrodsky]

Here is my old post on this:

https://www.airforums.com/forums/f44...ir-168947.html

[drobert33]

I’ve just treated myself to a practically free clamp on voltmeter from the Wally store. Accuracy is not important to me, just relative values, with less disconnecting, less chance of shorting out. I’ll do some more exploring when it arrives - I want to see if the lead coming from the water heater circuit breaker is at least sending volts along the wire (sounds like the title of an old sci-fi movie).

[Al and Missy]

I thought my heater element had failed but it was one of the two thermostats. One is the normal temperature cutoff (140 degrees, I think) and the other is the backup safety. They are in series with the element. If you are not drawing current, make sure one of the thermostats isn't open.

I got lucky. In my older Classic the thermostats and the element are all accessible by opening a panel door behind the cabinet door under the sink.


Al