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Old 06-05-2012, 04:00 PM   #1
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1966 20' Globetrotter
1964 24' Tradewind
johnsoncity , Tennessee
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Smile Vintage trailer supply GRAY TANK INSTALL

Inquiring if anyone has installed a Vintage Supply gray tank in a 60's Globe Trotter. Have not pulled the belly pan. Wondering if someone can give information on where to locate the outlets when ordering a tank.Thanks
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Old 06-05-2012, 04:44 PM   #2
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I got mine from inland rv, for my 68 ambassador. It was a fiber glass tank so all i did was put it in place and mark the holes. Then drilled them out and used a fiberglass kit to put the toilet flange and vent in..

Your taking a chance having them pre done. You can mark a plastic tank and take it to an RV dealer who can put your fitting in..
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Old 06-06-2012, 10:04 AM   #3
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1966 20' Globetrotter
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Thanks for the reply. Will check into the fiberglass deal
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Old 06-06-2012, 11:10 AM   #4
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I'm right in the middle of that same adventure (with the VTS tanks), which I ordered for my '73 Globetrotter. I ordered two tanks, which will live in the two bays directly behind my axle. I was concerned enough about where and how they would fit, that I went to Home Depot and bought two sheets of 1/2" thick styrofoam that is used for house insulation. I constructed two boxes (models) representing the exact size of the VTS tanks so that I could physically put them in place and move them around to see what they would interfere with.

The first thing I discovered is that there will be a very tight fit with where my shower drain goes through the floor, but I think it is survivable, plus I may need to rebuild the shower pan anyway. My tank nearest the axle will have two holes in the top, one for an entry point from the kitchen, the other for a vent. The default drain port on the side will be connected directly to the default drain in the second tank. This tank will also have one vent hole in the top, and then an offset hole in the side (because the cross members aft of the tank have three oblong holes in them, the ones fore of the second tank have 4 oblong holes). The models really helped me figure out the location of the holes.

My tanks are ordered, and were shipped Monday. I expect to see them this week, in which case I will update this post with a lot of curses, or will break my arm patting yself on the back for my fantastic planning.
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Old 06-06-2012, 11:16 AM   #5
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You shouldn't need a vent hole on your grey tanks. The vent is the pluming that is coming in from you sink or shower. You only need a vent if it is just a black tank. as you don't want gas build up and then you flush the toilet and it all comes out into the bathroom. And you can plumb it so it comes in the side of you tank. I will with one of mine.
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Old 06-06-2012, 11:36 AM   #6
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Hmmm.... I was basing my plumbing design (venting at least) off of the attached diagram, and various other conversations I've seen on the forums. It seems to me that I would always need one vent per tank, because the trapped air in the tank has to go somewhere when I am draining that shower or sink into the inlet of the tank. This would differ from home plumbing where the sink/shower drain into the main line can be coincident with the vent, but there is no trapped air below.
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Old 06-06-2012, 11:46 AM   #7
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But when your running water down a 1.5" pipe, you are never running enough water to totally fill That pipe. Air can always get by. And it's not like filling your fresh water tank where you are putting water in under pressure, It is just pouring in. If it's easy to put in you can put it in. But I did mine with out a vent and never had a problem. Just one more leak spot.

If you put a vent in 3/4 or 1/2 would be plenty big enough.
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Old 06-06-2012, 01:21 PM   #8
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With the VTS tanks, are the bottoms sloped toward the outlet?

I am thinking not, which makes me wonder if debris will accumulate. Grey water seems to have crud in it, not crap, but crud.

Just wondering. I am thinking to add a 40 gal grey tank to my '67 Safari but it will require relocating the floor joists and deepening the bottom pans from 5" to 9" (actually from 7" to 9" if you measure from the black tank cover). All doable as I have a welder and access to formed sheet metal, but not easy.

Using the VTS tanks would be easier but drainage pitch (all the way to the back bumper) is an issue starting with the tanks flat, not sloped, bottom.

John H
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Old 06-06-2012, 01:56 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by johnhh View Post
With the VTS tanks, are the bottoms sloped toward the outlet?

I am thinking not, which makes me wonder if debris will accumulate. Grey water seems to have crud in it, not crap, but crud.

Just wondering. I am thinking to add a 40 gal grey tank to my '67 Safari but it will require relocating the floor joists and deepening the bottom pans from 5" to 9" (actually from 7" to 9" if you measure from the black tank cover). All doable as I have a welder and access to formed sheet metal, but not easy.

Using the VTS tanks would be easier but drainage pitch (all the way to the back bumper) is an issue starting with the tanks flat, not sloped, bottom.

John H
I looked into these. And they are very nice. I would go with one but I already have a regular tank and those tanks are about 6-8 inches deep and mine is 10. Adding another and joining them together so I need the output tank deeper. If I bought one of those i would have to buy two new tanks, and at $200 plus each I can't justify it.

I haven't had a lot of debris in mine. It seems to come out with all the water so I don't think it is an issue.

One issue is water left in the bottom 1/2 inch or so. Because the fitting isn't flush with the bottom. I am putting in a drain valve in the bottom to take care of this.

this is a good source for both types of tanks and the prices are the best I could find. Page 3 - RV Water Tanks
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Old 06-06-2012, 01:59 PM   #10
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I'll know for sure in a day or two when my VTS tanks arrive, but my impression from their description is that they are flat bottomed, and that the drain is "as close to the bottom as possible," which suggests there is a lip that will result in some standing water in the bottom of the tank.

My rationalization for going with these tanks is that I wanted them to be completely within the frame rails so as not to be exposed to danger, and not reduce my clearance. I was figuring that on my final emptying of all tanks before getting on the road, that I might raise the front of the trailer a few inches to promote the drainage to the rear.
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Old 06-06-2012, 02:03 PM   #11
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you will need a vent; air can NOT always get by. if the pipe enters on the side of the tank, when the water level gets to the top of the hole, thats it--the pipe will be full, and there will be no place for the rest of the air in the tank to escape.

On the 73 gt--does that have the same 3/4 bath that my safari has? I didn't think the vts tank would fit there in the same bay as the shower drain. did you find that there is enough room to run the shower drain into the side of the tank?
For the forward tank--the drain line from the kitchen sink should suffice as a vent, as it would enter the tank from the top.
One thing I wondered about these rectangular tanks--what holds them in? how are they actually mounted?
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Old 06-06-2012, 02:03 PM   #12
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I have done that too. But I figure my axels hang down bellow the belly. I am also going to put some angle iron along the front and back edge to hold up the tanks. I used straps the first time which worked well but like you say. If something gets kicked up i want a something other than the tank to take the hit.
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Old 06-06-2012, 02:44 PM   #13
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The sinks and shower are suppose to have traps which hold water to prevent air from coming out of the drains. The air in the gray tank can smell as bad as the air in the black tank so I would want a vent so it wasn't coming into my trailer.
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Old 06-06-2012, 03:35 PM   #14
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Chuck,

Yes, I think I have the same shower pan as you, and my initial inspection of the situion suggested that the shower drain would interfere with the aft tank. Once I built the models, I could see that if I shoved the tank all the way against the inside of the frame rail that it would fit, albeit a tight fit. My shower pan is kind of dinged up, and I have yet to try to get the original drain pipe out of it (just cut it off below the floor when removing it. I figured I might end up with somehting altogether different, so decided not to let it be a limiting factor with respect to the tank location.

I was also considering making the shower drain directly into the aft tank without a P-trap. Seems like I saw a one-way check valve somewhere that would allow water to drain out of the shower, but keep the funk down below. Looked around for a while and never found it again, so decided to go with something more conventional. I was actually planning on plumbing the shower drain into the final grey water drain pipe so as to avoid any additional perforations of the tank.
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