Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
 
Old 06-15-2007, 02:54 PM   #1
2 Winds
 
2 Winds's Avatar
 
1964 24' Tradewind
1959 24' Tradewind
St. Paul , Minnesota
Join Date: Mar 2005
Posts: 11
ticking time bomb?

We are fixing up our '64 Tradewind and now have time to address less pressing items (i.e., the fridge is in and we have ice cubes ).

Somehow, when I look beneath the toilet, I wonder why it hasn't dropped out. Initially I was so concerned about it I half expected to see the toilet in my mirrors bouncing down the highway. After two western tours I'm simply in awe that it stays in place and works as it does. I'm wondering how extensive a repair this is.

From the bottom up:
The pan beneath the blackwater tank has numerous rust spots. What is it's purpose? Does it protect the tank or does it support? Some of this rust goes up around the valve area.

I'm unsure the tank is original. There are numerous indications that it has been repaired.

On top of the tank, the floor board in the back is rotten. None of it is supporting material, i.e., the rot does not extend forward of the toilet. Clean up, patch, or replace?

The toilet appears suspended. It sits on 2 1x4s but it is separated from the tank by <1 inch. Those boards are obviously not in the best shape. I'm not sure they were meant to support it. What supports the toilet? I can't believe its the fiberglass. I've gone down some rough roads that would have fully tested it's strength.

The toilet is a swirl-o-matic porcelain. Presumably original? It's fully functional. Is it possible to get a new gasket for the flapper? Or should I improvise one? Also, it's a heavy piece - if not original should I replace it?

I'm curious to hear what others think of this situation and what ideas you might offer for repair.
Thanks.
__________________

__________________
Let the four winds blow you home.
2 Winds is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-15-2007, 03:22 PM   #2
Rivet Master
 
AYRSTRM2's Avatar
 
1966 22' Safari
Armada , Michigan
Join Date: May 2004
Posts: 939
Images: 4
Toilet sounds original, but I'm not sure. You may need to pull your bathroom, which, as I know, you probably have to pull wardrobe and bulkhead forward of that to get the tub out. You then would need to remove your lower inner walls and scrape out the old rotten plywood, and wiggle a new piece in.

BUT before you do that, after you remove the bath, you should do:
Repair or replace the steel cross member that runs right under the trunk door. It is certainly rusted out. Also, call Inland RV or search the forums. There are several tricks for special additional framing you should put back there to hold the shell onto the frame with better.
Check the styrofoam around the black tank. Dunno what to do if it's messed up, but maybe you can make new with the Pink styro at Home depot.
Rebuild your toilet knife valve. Good time to rebuild. Again, search the forums, using my user name.

As for the belly skin you describe, it is a galvanized pan. (There was aluminum over it at one time.) That is held to the floor from above with screws. I don't like it. I got some steel angle iron and put a support across the bottom ledge of the frame rails to support the back edge of the tank. To access this, you need to pull the belly skin. Sounds like you need a new galv pan. Search TomW and his website for some tips on rebuilding this...I think.
__________________

__________________
John

Visit my Camping Blog!
AYRSTRM2 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-15-2007, 04:33 PM   #3
Rivet Master
 
FreshAir's Avatar

 
1966 24' Tradewind
Placerville , California
Join Date: Apr 2006
Posts: 3,327
Images: 2
Tick, tick, tick......

Yes, that is what I had last year. Our black tank split before I would pay attention to my tick, tick. However, mine wasn't as bad as your's seems to be. So I had a winter project...relace black tank and the floor beneath it. Our floor was rotten just under the toilet and to the street side wall. Solid under the shower/tub. Frame and tank tray rust free. Ideally I should have replaced the whole rear floor but since I was still recovering from two hip replacements pulling the bathroom was impossible for me. But Lying on my back (carefully) under my TradeWind I could do so I did the floor replacement in sections from underneath. I include these pictures to give you and idea what is involved. A bit time consuming but doable.

Neil and Lynn
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	TANK. FLOOR replacement Airstream 2007 041.jpg
Views:	129
Size:	45.4 KB
ID:	39292   Click image for larger version

Name:	TANK. FLOOR replacement Airstream 2007 036.jpg
Views:	98
Size:	40.9 KB
ID:	39293  

Click image for larger version

Name:	TANK. FLOOR replacement Airstream 2007 040.jpg
Views:	87
Size:	38.4 KB
ID:	39295   Click image for larger version

Name:	TANK. FLOOR replacement Airstream 2007 042.jpg
Views:	118
Size:	42.6 KB
ID:	39296  

Click image for larger version

Name:	TANK. FLOOR replacement Airstream 2007 043.jpg
Views:	89
Size:	35.6 KB
ID:	39297   Click image for larger version

Name:	TANK. FLOOR replacement Airstream 2007 050.jpg
Views:	84
Size:	40.9 KB
ID:	39298  

__________________
Neil and Lynn Holman
FreshAir #12407

Avatar;
Kirk Creek, Big Sur, Ca. coast.

1966 Trade Wind

1971 Buick Centurion convertible
455 cid

1969 Oldsmobile Ninety Eight
455 cid
FreshAir is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-16-2007, 05:37 AM   #4
2 Winds
 
2 Winds's Avatar
 
1964 24' Tradewind
1959 24' Tradewind
St. Paul , Minnesota
Join Date: Mar 2005
Posts: 11
Maybe I shouldn't have asked these questions.
Ignorance is bliss, and that was yesterday.
I have me a winter project (actually, probably August).

Below, the bw tray has a large rusted out area on front side. It needs replacing. Above, the floor in the rear compartment (by the toilet) from toilet to curb side was removed by PO so bw tank is visible. That's why the funky support system for the toilet.

Thanks for the photos. It's so helpful to see the disassembled or "exploded" view to understand how things work. I looked at a lot of threads previous to posting my question and now that I know I need to do it, I will return to them.

Questions: why the angle iron attached below the frame? Before digging into this I thought it supported the bw tank. Is it to provide bottomside protection to the tank?

Many thanks for the help.
__________________
Let the four winds blow you home.
2 Winds is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-16-2007, 10:34 AM   #5
Rivet Master
 
FreshAir's Avatar

 
1966 24' Tradewind
Placerville , California
Join Date: Apr 2006
Posts: 3,327
Images: 2
Quote:
Originally Posted by 2 Winds

Questions: why the angle iron attached below the frame? Before digging into this I thought it supported the bw tank. Is it to provide bottomside protection to the tank?

Many thanks for the help.
I don't know what angle iron you see. Perhaps I can explain what I found and addressed will answer your question. My floor had evidence of a patched section under the toilet to the rear edge. It appeared to be done by a 'shop' as welded strap iron supports to mount and support the 'patch' were done along the rear cross frame and to the streetside frame. The rear welded support was a mistake. Airstream builds the trailers sandwiching the ply floor between it's bottom (base) c-channel body frame and the main frame. So what that means in effect is the trailer shell rests on the floor and is bolted AND screwed to the frame. What a PO had done in my case is cut the old rotted floor up to the c-channel then welded a new mount to anchor the new patch. What should have been done and what I did was remove the 1 1/2" strip of old rotted floor that was still there and brought my new patch of ply under the shell. I don't have a real clear photo to illustrate that. The best photo is the one showing the jack stands system I used to install the tank. Focus your attention to the outside skin beneath the hatch openning and you will see the edge of the new ply peeking just under the outer skin. As to the tank support I have seen in other threads angle irons welded street and curb side frame that the tank box rested in. Mine was bolted through the ply and though a lip that surrounded the box. Check one of my previous photos for that. Now to get the floor into there you my have to (unbolt/screw) the shell and carefully pry/lift it to slide the floor in. Don't let this scare you but it will take patience. I have seen some other photos in the'Search' that illustrates this well. Now for your 'missing floor. Ideally the old removed floor would be your pattern for the new ply. Since you do not have that there is a thread on the math to duplicate the curve of the shell. I could not find it but what I did where my old floor was too detertiorated was cut a pattern from stiff cardboard and fit, cut more etc until I had a good fit. Remember you need to allow for the new floot to go UNDER the shell. Do not hesitate to ask me more. PM me if you want. Take your time. Make some temp repairs to get in your summer camping. When you don't have any camping plans in your near future begin your project. When our tank split last Fall we did just fine without a toilet. I just camped in camp grounds near a bathroom. Just like our old pop-up days. Oh, one other suggestion. I coated my new ply on both sides and edges with fiberglas resin. The bath area is always prone to a soaking occassionally and a little extra protection was cheap. You may want to check out Rot Doctor. I have built 4 darkroom sinks from plywood then coated with resin. Never had one leak!

Neil and Lynn.
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	TANK. FLOOR replacement Airstream 2007 046.jpg
Views:	98
Size:	43.2 KB
ID:	39347   Click image for larger version

Name:	TANK. FLOOR replacement Airstream 2007 029.jpg
Views:	87
Size:	39.3 KB
ID:	39348  

Click image for larger version

Name:	TANK. FLOOR replacement Airstream 2007 030.jpg
Views:	87
Size:	43.7 KB
ID:	39349  
__________________
Neil and Lynn Holman
FreshAir #12407

Avatar;
Kirk Creek, Big Sur, Ca. coast.

1966 Trade Wind

1971 Buick Centurion convertible
455 cid

1969 Oldsmobile Ninety Eight
455 cid
FreshAir is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply


Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
1974 Excella front window docu post john hd 1973-1974 Excella 500 22 08-06-2004 02:53 PM
that time to chat john hd Our Community 6 07-08-2003 11:05 PM
Airstream "sighting" TIME, April 7 issue Kistler Our Community 2 04-02-2003 08:23 AM
problem with Brakes jazzbone Brakes & Brake Controllers 33 08-23-2002 08:05 AM


Virginia Campgrounds

Reviews provided by




Copyright 2002- Social Knowledge, LLC All Rights Reserved.

All times are GMT -6. The time now is 04:00 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8 Beta 1
Copyright ©2000 - 2017, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.

Airstream is a registered trademark of Airstream Inc. All rights reserved. Airstream trademark used under license to Social Knowledge LLC.