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Old 08-01-2006, 11:00 AM   #43
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Yes Tim thats it right there ,the tan line /drain looks right now .That way
you don't have to be raising the tub and making other changes not needed.
Your p trap cast metal shower/tub drain does have a trap in it .low profile
so it does not hang down .I think that design right there will do it ,without
other big modifications.

Scott
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Old 08-01-2006, 11:26 AM   #44
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Thanks guys. Now I have a plan.

I'm not sure if I can save that cast p trap or not. I had to cut it off. I'll have to look at it closely to see.
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Old 08-01-2006, 01:12 PM   #45
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just wanted to add...I would make sure that there is some kind of trap in the tub/shower drain. you may also want to add a check valve in the drain line, to keep anything from back-sloshing into the tub while under way.

as far as draining the tank goes...your tounge jack will provide all the slope that you need .
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Old 08-01-2006, 03:40 PM   #46
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hey tim,

be sure you document it here so i can take notes! i'm planning on doing our 64 trade wind sometime this fall/winter!

jp
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Old 08-01-2006, 11:31 PM   #47
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Tim ,

I may retro fit the same setup yor doing in my 60 trdwnd .utilize the same setup we have been talking about .Now what do you mean you had to cut it off ,the tub piece????? You had said you were not removing it .That drain
had the step level trap setup in it.They do make brass drains similar ,but will
have no trap .I think you could use the low profile brass drain for the tub
and get a nice p trap made or purchase for it anyway that will work good.
Carry on then I can do mine the same way.

Scott
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Old 08-02-2006, 12:28 AM   #48
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Scott,

I had to remove the tub for a couple of reasons. I wanted to replace the floor as there was a small amount of rot. Also I wanted to expose the frame back there to make sure I get all the rot at once.

And second, I want to refinish the tub as well. Much easier with it out. Although finding someone to do it has proven difficult.

I used a sawsall and cut it flush between the floor and the top of that special trap. So I should have just cut the drain peice that screwed into it. If so and I can carefully cut out the drain piping that screwed into then I can reuse it. I have not looked at it closely.

On my '71 the trap went below the bellypan and was covered by a molded plastic cover. So that is also a possibility. But I need to keep as much clearance as I can because my Amabassador is already a low rider and backing up my driveway makes it a close call.


Quote:
Originally Posted by scottanlily
Tim ,

I may retro fit the same setup yor doing in my 60 trdwnd .utilize the same setup we have been talking about .Now what do you mean you had to cut it off ,the tub piece????? You had said you were not removing it .That drain
had the step level trap setup in it.They do make brass drains similar ,but will
have no trap .I think you could use the low profile brass drain for the tub
and get a nice p trap made or purchase for it anyway that will work good.
Carry on then I can do mine the same way.

Scott
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Old 08-02-2006, 12:47 AM   #49
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Hello Safari Tim ,

Now is the time to do the floor the right way .So Ifigured it was necessary
to remove the tub and the p trap .When I had my trap off ,floor was in great
shape ,lucky ,I had it sandblasted /glass bead blasted at my local machine
shop ,the used marine resin right after to seal the metal from any rust or
corrosion .I did the trap when I was replacing the rear frame section and
had the belly pan down ,really was surprised the floor was so good .I have some wear in my tub and buffed it with 3m polish and gelcoat polish for
boats ,looks real nice ,some day I may pull it to re gel coat it .

Scott
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Old 08-02-2006, 01:02 PM   #50
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Well, I just dropped the trailer off to the welder. It will probably be there a week or so

Among other things, I have him moving a crossmember so I can put in a larger grey tank. I'm not sure how big it will be, maybe around 27 gallons or so.

He will be adding some additional bracing for the floor when he moves it.

He's one of those old guys who has his own dirty old shop, been doing it forever. I think I'm in good hands.
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Old 08-02-2006, 03:54 PM   #51
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Tim:

Good call. Good luck.

Remember that a commonly available tank - there are hundreds available - will cost about one third of a custom made one.

Sergei
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Old 08-02-2006, 08:34 PM   #52
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Im happy its at the welder so your trailer can get done and back to you.
Just don't let it get on the back burner as projects tend to do at the welders .Tell him you have the money so you just need it done .My stainless
guy that did my stainless pressure tank ,needed a little push .but I said
hey I have the bucks and I am really excited about my new tank ! That helped,a positive push really.Im sure the guy will do a good job,positive ..yes!

Scott
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Old 09-13-2006, 12:54 AM   #53
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So, I'm also trying to figure out how to add a grey tank, and need a new black tank.

Found a guy who'll make some fiberglass tanks at reasonable price, but he'd like to put both under floor so he can basically use same mold (a "stretched" version of one he already has).

What are the downsides of putting black tank under subfloor across most of rear section? This would probably increase my capacity from 13g. to somewhere between 15-20g, depending how far to streetside the tub drain allows me to go with tank. Would also give more headroom up above at toilet. But will it create connection or dump valve problems?

Like Tim, I'd like to put a grey tank in the frame space just ahead of axle. I got some 1.5" PVC drain pipe today: is it really OK to drill two sets of holes that big in crossmembers??? There would be one run on streetside from back to front, for lav. and tub to drain into tank (kitchen sink ties into this), another on curbside to drain tank to dump valve at rear, next to black tank dump valve. Or should I try to get dump valves over to side somehow?

Also, I had to sacrifice that rusted ribbon-like cast-iron trap under tub in order to get it out. Is there no low-profile replacement trap that fits within frame?

And when you talk about running tub drain against underside of subfloor, do you mean that literally, like you would be notching top of crossmembers rather than drilling thru them further down?

It's ~10' from bathroom to axle: does that mean I need a 2.5" drop in drain lines, both ways? Or can I run the one from bottom of tank to dump valve level, and crank front of trailer up while dumping?

Thanks for input!
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Old 09-13-2006, 10:43 PM   #54
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They do actually make a brass low profile drain .the problem is no trap ,
meaning it drains straight from the tub .the original trap has two little
metal walls inside kinda to hold the water in the trap.I don't know if it would really matter though in the original state of design . you can get them probably at lowes or home depot ,osh etc. you'll know it when you see it.
since the black tank is not connected to the grey ,the grey dumps below the black valve it should not give off sewer gases.

scott of scottanlily
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Old 09-13-2006, 10:48 PM   #55
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Oh Lynne ,forgot to say ,check the threads posted by Safari tim .He has some drawings that show the way he would do the grey.the last rendition
drawing I believe would be the way I would go .im waiting for him to finish his so I myself can do mine .the plumbing from the tub does run along the bottom
of the subfloor and gradually angles down to the tail piece drain outside the trailer.Don't know yet how it will be completely done .Tim hurry up with that plumbing of the grey tank ,we are waiting .

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Old 09-13-2006, 11:00 PM   #56
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I working on it!

I'm getting bids now on a stainless steal tank 53" x 30" x 4" for around 28 gallons.

My current plan is to have the kitchen sink drain in to the top of the tank through the floor under the streetside twin. That same connection will also tie into a roof vent up the streetside closet out the roof.

The tub drain and bath sink drain will meet under the subfloor and run into the side of the tank. I'll have to drill 2" holes in the crossmembers between the rear of the trailer and the grey tank cavity. The way I understand it, its ok for this connection to be in the middle of the tank side as long as I have a roof vent.

There will be another 1.5" drain output on the curbside from the grey tank under the subfloor that will run back and meet up with the black tank output where I'll install a new valve system for the black and grey tanks.

At least thats the plan... :-)
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