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Old 07-31-2006, 08:43 PM   #29
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Tim,

My tank is from Accu-Tanks in Grant's Pass, Oregon. http://www.accutanks.com/ronco_holding.htm

As far as your planned layout, you don't indicate any valves and where the tank outlets would be located. The drain lines and the tanks need to be set so that they drain dry, without any dead legs or pockets that can freeze.
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Old 07-31-2006, 09:02 PM   #30
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Tim:

Shell off or shell on it's a lot of work.

If you remove one cross member, you can have 36 gallons or more. It's worth thinking about.

Sergei
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Old 07-31-2006, 09:12 PM   #31
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Tim ,

that all looks like the original drain setup same as mine except your drain
continues to the grey tank ,instead of going doen the tailpiece I now have ,
is that right?The top or near top ,the fill part on the curbside needs to be
able to drain in the tank,which means the tank needs to be lower in the frame rails ,nothing can drain uphill or raise the main drain so it is level up againts the bottom of the floor as opposed to how it was ,angled down to the tail piece outlet.The kitchen sink drain is high so that part looks good.Incidently
I replaced a large section of the drain under the double bed with red hose
from orchard supply ,rubber ,made for drain water ,heavy duty industrial
type hose and the correct I.D. I say no to the tub drain above the floor ,how could you do that ? Have it as your drawing shows ,instead of the ground it goes on to the tank.

Scott
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Old 07-31-2006, 09:52 PM   #32
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Thanks for the link.

Sorry about my drawing.

The drain valves are under the black tank. The black tank dumps straight down as usual.

The drain from the grey tank exits the tank on the left side of my drawing along the dashed line. The tub exits the tub drain under the subfloor and tees into the drain line from the tank. From there they go to a valve.

As I type this, it occurs to me that the drain line from the tub will always hold water. So I guess that won't work. So the only way to do it is to have the tub raised up on a platform so the drain line can be above the floor.



Quote:
Originally Posted by markdoane
Tim,

My tank is from Accu-Tanks in Grant's Pass, Oregon. http://www.accutanks.com/ronco_holding.htm

As far as your planned layout, you don't indicate any valves and where the tank outlets would be located. The drain lines and the tanks need to be set so that they drain dry, without any dead legs or pockets that can freeze.
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Old 07-31-2006, 09:53 PM   #33
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OK, so if I do remove a crossmember, the one right under the tank location in my drawing, would I have to beef up the remaining cross members and frame some how to support a 30 gallon or so tank?

Quote:
Originally Posted by SmokelessJoe
Tim:

Shell off or shell on it's a lot of work.

If you remove one cross member, you can have 36 gallons or more. It's worth thinking about.

Sergei
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Old 07-31-2006, 09:57 PM   #34
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Quote:
Originally Posted by scottanlily
Tim ,

I say no to the tub drain above the floor ,how could you do that ? Have it as your drawing shows ,instead of the ground it goes on to the tank.

Scott
I was thinking of something like what Uwe did here.
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Old 07-31-2006, 10:22 PM   #35
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Hello tim ,Im not sure what the trouble is ,are you trying to get the whole drain system raised up so the tank is up in the frame.Why can't you just route the grey into the grey tank as it now is ?I would just again extend the black hose on to the grey tank ,am I missing somthing.Uwe has the shell off
so any changes are built in as he goes ,like a new construction .I
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Old 07-31-2006, 10:24 PM   #36
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Tim ,can you do a side view sketch? The last post somehow shot up before I was done,


Scott
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Old 07-31-2006, 10:53 PM   #37
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Tim:

Mark makes a good point in post #27.

If you put a 30 or 40 gallon tank in there, it will be supported by the two crossmembers along each side and by the frame rails at each end.

These angle iron supports, all around the tank, can also have the effect of strengthening the undercarriage, not weakening it.

Sergei
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Old 07-31-2006, 10:59 PM   #38
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Hey everyone,
Remember that water weighs 8 lbs per gallon ,so that 40 gallons would be
320 pounds hanging between the crossmembers .The weight is the factor .
Carry around two 5 gallon containers of water ,one in each hand .They get heavy in minutes.So capacity is the key ,the extra weight added is a factor
that is more important if your going large capacity.

Scott
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Old 07-31-2006, 11:07 PM   #39
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Thanks for admireing my artwork enough to ask for more

Here ya go.....

I guess my drain question is can the tub drain into the output of the grey tank all under the subfloor. Because the tub sits on the floor and the drain ends up under the subfloor.

I was wondering if the frame needed added support because I noted in Uwe's case he boxed in the frame to add support.

Quote:
Originally Posted by scottanlily
Tim ,can you do a side view sketch? The last post somehow shot up before I was done,


Scott
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Old 08-01-2006, 12:52 AM   #40
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hello Tim,

I think that the frame work 2" angle iron surounding the grey tank and
having it welded to the front and rear crossmembers ,like uwes basically
should do the job ,If your thinking 40 gallons go with 3" angle or square
steel tubing will be strong enough ,Close to the axle for sure .The blue drain line from the tub goes right along the bottom of the floor ,mount it flush onthe bottom of the floor all the way to the grey tank so it empties at the top side inlet of the tank.See ,I would have the blue drain bypass the valve
where you have it in the drawing ,keeping it up againts the underside of the floor to the grey tank.Then another drain from the bottom side of grey tank
then goes to the drain valve.See the red is above the tank where you want it
and the drain (blue) cannot work the way you show it because as you
said the tub drain will fill up with grey water ,the blue drain is low down ,you
only want it low to the drain valve .So then the blue in your sketch from the grey to the valve is good.the blue from the tub again goes right to the grey
entering as the red does .Know what I mean .I think that will work just fine.
If your putting a grey tank you don't need that blue from the bath sink and tub exiting the old way anymore.Refigure if you can another redesign sketch
if you want with the revised idea.

Scott
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Old 08-01-2006, 01:19 AM   #41
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So what you're saying is have another inlet to the grey tank but below the floor for the tub.

See the updated picture. Feel free to use it as your computers desktop background
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Old 08-01-2006, 09:43 AM   #42
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Tim:

Like Scott is telling you, you can’t run the tub directly to the outlet. You must drain it back to the grey tank. The grey tank then drains to the outlet.

Keep in mind that you need “slope” to drain, ideally 1/4” per foot. Less will work but you have to make sure the lines run down, not up.

Your drainage system is also predicated on your trailer being level.

Don’t be over concerned about the weight of water. You will usually haul this only as far as the nearest dump.

3” angle iron is probably overkill. That is extra weight you will always haul around.


Sergei
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