Sticking Dump Valve

[74SovereignInt.]

Ok, I don't know if this has been covered before so excuse me if it has but...

The dump valve on my Sovereign seems to be stuck, I'm not sure what to do with the levers on either side of it to open or free it.

How is it supposed to operate? Is it possible that it could be stuck and what can be done to repair it if it is?

Thanks for your help.

[thenewkid64]

I am afraid your going to have to break out the serivce manual or find someone who has one. there may be an inspection plate on the belly of your coach in 18-30 inches from the pull handles. You can usally get direct access to the valve that way. I had one stick in a 77 center bath and accidently pulled the handle out of the valve so don't force it! If you have an inspection plate you are set. If not you need to know where the "right spot" is before you start cutting holes in the belly of the trailer. Once you get access you may be able to open it at the valve. Good luck, let us know what you find.

[BobbyW]

Is there anything in the holding tank?

If not, maybe the rubber seals are just dry. Add a little soapy water to the tank and let it soak. You might also push some water up into the pipe from the dump side with a water hose to get things wet on that side.

Also, are you sure it is not already open? Dumping the soapy water in will let you know.

Brett is also right about not forcing it. You CAN pull the handle off. I have one sitting in my plumbing parts bucket that the previous owner (PO) yanked it to hard and the handles missing.

Let us know how it goes.

-BobbyWright

[74SovereignInt.]

The control panel says it is empty and the PO was dumping straight into the septic I believe. I do get water flowing out when I run a sink so I just assumed that I was not equiped with a grey tank. The thing that gets me is that I don't seem to be able to move the handles either way. I will go with my original thought and your good advice and try to lube the seals. Thanks.

[thenewkid64]

If you have 2 handles then you have a grey tank. One says Main tank the other says Aux tank. The Main is the Black water.

[68 Overlander]

You have a black AND a grey tank if you have two handles. "Main" is sewer and "Auxillary" is grey. If water flows through when you run a sink, then at least the grey is stuck open or the valve is bad (Really bad). Flush or pour water down the toilet and see if water comes out again and then you can confirm the black tank valve too. Soapy water or other valve lubricants cant work if the valves are open as they never make contact with the blade seals. At least if you are stuck open, you can exert more pressure trying to close them than trying to open but still be carefull. Try that access/inspection plate that thenewkid64 mentioned and try to get some lubricant up there and try again to close it. If the pull handles are more than 1-2 inches long then they are likely stuck open and not closed (Thetford). Your 74 came with both black and grey tank and thetford valves and fittings, assuming they are original.
Randy

[68 Overlander]

Sorry Brett, we must have been typing at the same time. Didn't mean to repeat what you said about two handles.
Randy

[74SovereignInt.]

That's great news friends. I was afraid I would have to buy a roller tank for grey water. It's nearly midnight but I just have to go look at the handles. Now that I know which way to move them I can be a little more forceful than just looking at them. I'll try to remember to keep you posted.

Is there any type of spray that you think might be safe for the seal to use?

[74SovereignInt.]

ok, it looks like good and bad news

First, it looks like there is an access panel although I was disheartened to see that much of the belly pan is somewhat loose with wetness evident or gaps in the wheel wells. Oh well, just more fun to have

The handles aren't marked but once/if I get it working I can figure out which is which.

The handles are out by approximately three inches

I'll drop the panel in the morning and see what I can come up with. With access to the valve is it possible to free it up? How difficult/expensive is it to replace the valve?

Thanks in advance for all your patience and help.

[68 Overlander]

Sounds like your handles are open, especially since you have water coming through from the sink. As for lube, use anything that is not harmfull to rubber or plastic. The right handle should be the black (Main) tank. Work it slowly and patiently. Worst case since you found your service/inspection panel is that if it is frozen, it can be replaced, although messy and might require removing more of the belly pan.
Randy

[BobbyW]

Replacement valves can be had for around 35-40 each. Rebuild kits are available for your existing valves. Any good RV store will have the parts. Use Thetford, OEM, not Valttera replacement. http://www.campingworld.com/browse/s...=SRCH&tcode=37

-BobbyWright

[74SovereignInt.]

afternoon all, great news !

I took the panel down and started disconnecting stuff. It all came apart easier than I thought, the valves seem to have been replaced around 1989 according to the date on the valves. I got them out with ease and cleaned the big dead bug carcasses out of the way and viola`, they slide free and easy. Spread some lubricant on the gaskets and I'm calling my first real problem solved. I'm definitely gonna look into one of the flushing kits I've seen.

Thanks for your great ideas. Maybe we can hook up sometime and I can thank you in person. Anyone in the southeast?

T

[BobbyW]

Excellent news.

I kind of figured they just might be crudded up.

ThanX for posting the results of your discovery and your successes for others to follow and learn from.

-BobbyWright