Seweer valves broken

JLD · 12-01-2003, 10:47 PM

Hello.

A while back someone explained on the forum how to replace the valves on the sewer system. Mine, both the grey water and the black water, are either stuck in the open position or broken. I am leaning toward broken on the black tank and frozen open on the grey, because the black pull rod moves freely in and out with zero resistance and the grey refuses to go in. Both tanks are open. Water drains straight into and out of both the black and the grey tank and the black does not hold the potty chemicals and needs constant attention and flushing with a garden hose.

The trailer is a 76 Sovereign, 31 ft., with a central bath on the starboard side. I Know Camping World has replacement valves, but do not know if they carry something that will work with this rig. Soooo. I need instructions as to where to look for the valves, how to replace and where to purchase the parts.

Thanks. JLD ps sorry, but I have no trailer guide for this rig.

thenewkid64 · 12-02-2003, 04:47 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by JLD
I am leaning toward broken on the black tank and frozen open on the Grey, because the black pull rod moves freely in and out with zero resistance and the Grey refuses to go in. Both tanks are open.

I had the same layout, and kinda the same problem. The black valve is on the curbside middle of the the trailer. There should be an access panel in the belly of the trailer straight across and 6-8 inches forward of the sewer outlet. The rod to the black water valve may have just pulled of the valve blade. It is held in place with a cotter pin. The Grey water valve should be closer to the road side, but approximately the same distance forward from the sewer outlet. There should also be an access panel.

The valves are not hard to repair once you can get to them. You may need to cut away part of the belly skin to do so. This is easily remedied with some sheet aluminum and vulcem with screws/rivets.

The valve bodies are held together with 6-8 screws. Once you disassemble the halves you can get seal kits that would allow you to rebuild the valves and not have to cut into the plumbing. My recommendation would be to get in to the valve area and see what you have before buying the parts.

JLD · 12-02-2003, 03:22 PM

Thanks for the advice Brett. I am betting you are right and the rod has pulled out of the pin or I broke the pin out of the flange pulling and pushing on it. It was VERY hard to move and I followed the former owner's advice and put a handle throught rope and tied it to the knob. It was opening and closing for most of the last year with some hauling and grumbling.

Could you clarify for me the following parts of your note? At one point you write "There should be an access panel in the belly of the trailer straight across the 6-8 inches forward of the sewer outlet" Later you say I may need to "cut away part of the belly skin" . Is this cut away necessary even if there is no access panel?" How much working room is there inside the access panel for using tools?

From whom do you recommend I buy a repair kit? Are they available from places like Camping World on special order or do I need to go to a dealer or to Andy on line?

What tools do you suggest I assemble for the job? I have tin snips, sheet aluminum left over for flashing the gutters and a collection of various pliers and so forth.

Thanks again for your help. the trailer is in reach of various outlets for the average RV stuff, but I fear such products will not work on the Airstream. I found the Thetford replacement valves at Camping World, but I don't feel they will suffice.

JLD

thenewkid64 · 12-02-2003, 07:04 PM

JLD,

If you imagine a line that goes side to side under the sewer outlet that is my point of reference for the forward measurement.

Sometimes there are access panels sometimes there are not. It depends on past repairs in some cases. Tin snips will be the most you will need. I would also recommend safety glasses and a mask. Lying on your back and pulling a section of the belly is gonna drop crud in your face.

Once you get to the valves you can see what you have and what you will need. The valves will have a thetford part number on them and the seal kits are usually available at most decent RV places. You could check and see if they stock the seal kits ahead of time.

Once you get into the belly pan you may have to cut a hole that will allow you to have room to work. This will require the tin snips. The valves are a two sided affair that is held together with 6-8 phillips screws. If you separate the halves you can get to the seals and replace them, as well as cleaning the seat and lubing it up with some silicone o-ring lube. This is available at a pool supply store or in the plumbing aisle of HD.

Once you have the plumbing back together it is simply a matter of closing the belly pan back up and you are done, dude.