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Old 06-13-2014, 10:29 AM   #29
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Thanks again so much for everyone's thoughts. We'll be putting your ideas to good use!
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Old 06-13-2014, 10:35 AM   #30
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I'm assuming that the toilet bowl itself has some standing water in it and that water stays in the bowl and doesn't slowly drop. If there is no standing water, or if the bowl will not hold water, then you could have a bad valve gasket. That will allow the tank smells to leak into the trailer.

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Old 06-13-2014, 01:03 PM   #31
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I would think that Clorox would kill the good bacteria. Sal
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Old 06-13-2014, 01:09 PM   #32
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For a time it might, but a pint or two of concentrate will kill the stink... And then evaporate.
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Old 06-13-2014, 01:16 PM   #33
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I had a sewer odor for years with my 75, tried everything, noticed it did not start til tank was partly full??? On inspiration, I removed the toilet one day and filled the tank with ahose, as the water rose, the seal the toilet hooks too started to separate from the tank, never properly attached as no sight of
polyweld on one side. Been like that for 40 years. Hate to say it but a liberal
coat of shoe-goo under and around that fitting sealed it up good, odor gone.
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Old 06-13-2014, 01:26 PM   #34
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Ever been downwind of a pig farm/factory?

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Originally Posted by KYAirstream View Post
So even though the tanks are emptied pretty regularly, the RIDX has time to work? Is that the RIDX for RV's?
AHEM... well not to get too graphic here (Oh why not?). I'm single. I am not retired, so I use the bathroom at work with normal frequency.

So... I've never actually FILLED my black tank. I could literally park for a month without needing to drain the black tank due to a potential flush with no place to go. I don't schedule dumping the black tank, but I do generally dump it at about 10 day intervals. So yes, plain old ordinary garden variety septic tank and home drain Rid-X works just dandy for me.

A family of four camping might go 3 - 5 days depending on tank size and then draining and flushing would be urgent. Even so, Rid-X isn't bad, but it won't have as much time to work. Fecal decay is pretty much an anaerobic process (works in the absence of oxygen) so the closed tank itself accelerates the process... or the more frequently you flush the more oxygen you put into the tank, thus slowing down the digestive process.

Is Rid-X or any other chemical really necessary? Truth? Doodie itself contains a goodly number of bacteria and will take care of itself in "nature". Problem is that we overwhelm nature by population density (A Hog farm "lagoon" being a prime example.) I use it, but probably only NEED to do it in the summer heat. I'd rather be overly considerate than act like the world revolves around me.
When I just started camping I was in a BIG campground that was 90% empty - and I saw a family start to break camp. Their camper might have been 200 feet from mine on the other side of a stream... and about 5 seconds after they released the contents of their black tank, this wall of stench hit. I've never had that experience since, but I'm determined to avoid inflicting it on anyone else. (One does not want to speculate on the dietary habits of others, but I wonder if waste from their pet sheep was being dumped.)

Paula
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Old 06-13-2014, 05:06 PM   #35
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Annabelle View Post
We are newbies to the travel trailer world. We have a 2010 Flying Cloud. There is a definite sewage odor in the trailer. It was parked not being used for 2 weeks, nothing noticable. We drove on a 3 hr trip and noticed a definite odor when we opened the door on our first stop, about an hour out. It has sanitizer added to the black water tank. Should I add more? Does the warmer weather have anything to do with it?

Annabelle
Hi Annabelle

Much of the advice upthread is irrelevant to your situation or is at best a band-aid that will cover up the underlying problem(s).

The only good advice upthread is that if the trailer's been sitting you might possibly have a dry trap, though this is rare. Now that you've been using the trailer, that shouldn't be a problem. If the stink is gone, great, otherwise read on.

There should be no sewer odor in the trailer, except that at times under certain conditions there may be some odor when flushing the toilet. If there is, you have a leak, and it can and should be fixed.

While there are differences among models, with 2010 trailers and ones made around that time, there are some specific things to check. You should first of all visually inspect the dump valves and the hose clamps in the fittings they attach to. This may require cutting an access hole in the belly pan unless that's already been done. If you can verify that the clamps and bolts are all snug and there are no signs of leakage, great, otherwise fix what you find.

The next thing to do is to seal the floor penetrations. You may find that your trailer was constructed with oversize holes for the hot and cold water lines and drain and vent pipes. Find all of them and seal them with expanding foam sealer. Again, if there are any clamps, check their security.

Beyond that, the next move is to fill the drain systems (black and grey, one at a time) to the point where water is 6-12" above the tops of the tanks and then look for leaks. For the grey tank this will be the point where the shower basin starts to fill. For the black tank you'll start to see water backing up into the base of the toilet.

If there are leaks, fix them.

That takes care of most of the likely causes. If you do all that and don't find anything, no leaks even if it sits overnight, post back and I can suggest other areas to check.
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Old 06-13-2014, 10:44 PM   #36
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Foiled Again View Post
AHEM... well not to get too graphic here (Oh why not?). I'm single. I am not retired, so I use the bathroom at work with normal frequency.



So... I've never actually FILLED my black tank. I could literally park for a month without needing to drain the black tank due to a potential flush with no place to go. I don't schedule dumping the black tank, but I do generally dump it at about 10 day intervals. So yes, plain old ordinary garden variety septic tank and home drain Rid-X works just dandy for me.


If a tank has had a formaldehyde based product in it, any issue or serious flushing needed before trying RIDX?
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Old 06-14-2014, 09:33 AM   #37
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I would guess a dump and one or two flushes will do the trick.
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Old 06-14-2014, 09:43 AM   #38
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It does take a couple of tanks of water to get all that formaldehyde out and the eco friendly tank additives to work properly.

Jack
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Old 06-14-2014, 04:25 PM   #39
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The riddex liquid does not have the gravelly content as the granular formula.
I get a good clean in just a weekend.
I follow up with tap.
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Old 08-25-2014, 07:04 AM   #40
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Sewer Odor

Jammer:

I have the issue ONLY when the toilet is flushed the odor penetrates the trailer. I had a frozen pipe burst this winter and the shower head, sink faucet, and spray nozzle at the toilet were ruptured. I had them replaced and asked that they check the toilet, too.

They may not have noticed a crake or leak at the toilet base!

I think that may be my problem. It has been very perplexing that only when the toilet is flushed the odor is released.

I hope this is the problem.

Craig
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jammer View Post
Hi Annabelle

Much of the advice upthread is irrelevant to your situation or is at best a band-aid that will cover up the underlying problem(s).

The only good advice upthread is that if the trailer's been sitting you might possibly have a dry trap, though this is rare. Now that you've been using the trailer, that shouldn't be a problem. If the stink is gone, great, otherwise read on.

There should be no sewer odor in the trailer, except that at times under certain conditions there may be some odor when flushing the toilet. If there is, you have a leak, and it can and should be fixed.

While there are differences among models, with 2010 trailers and ones made around that time, there are some specific things to check. You should first of all visually inspect the dump valves and the hose clamps in the fittings they attach to. This may require cutting an access hole in the belly pan unless that's already been done. If you can verify that the clamps and bolts are all snug and there are no signs of leakage, great, otherwise fix what you find.

The next thing to do is to seal the floor penetrations. You may find that your trailer was constructed with oversize holes for the hot and cold water lines and drain and vent pipes. Find all of them and seal them with expanding foam sealer. Again, if there are any clamps, check their security.

Beyond that, the next move is to fill the drain systems (black and grey, one at a time) to the point where water is 6-12" above the tops of the tanks and then look for leaks. For the grey tank this will be the point where the shower basin starts to fill. For the black tank you'll start to see water backing up into the base of the toilet.

If there are leaks, fix them.

That takes care of most of the likely causes. If you do all that and don't find anything, no leaks even if it sits overnight, post back and I can suggest other areas to check.
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Old 08-25-2014, 11:48 AM   #41
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Golfarch, check the vent tube up on the roof for blockage. Also, if you drive with full black tanks, TP could build up on the bottom of the vent pipe, in the tank. In this case, use a hose to flush it clear from up on the roof (but do that with the drain valve open!).
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Old 08-25-2014, 11:56 AM   #42
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If the fantastic fan is blowing out, it will suck fumes from the toilet, especially when it is flushed. Keep some water in the toilet. Jim
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