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Old 11-04-2015, 12:21 PM   #1
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See-Level users: wiring question

Seems to me I remember seeing people say that you only need to run a single wire to daisy-chain the tank sensors, and this is the only wire needed to connect to the control panel; each sensor's ground wire just connected to the frame in a convenient location for a ground;
The manual seems to state (unless I am reading it incorrectly) that the ground wire should run all the way back to the control panel, and be grounded in the same location.

can anyone clarify?

They also say "no spade connectors; use but splices only".

Well...what if the tank ever needs to be removed?
The original factory tank probes are connected via "bullet connectors", so that they can be unplugged.

thoughts?
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Old 11-04-2015, 02:14 PM   #2
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The sensors and the control unit communicate with only a few milliamps, so any resistance can throw off the accuracy of the meter. Some go as far as running a dedicated ground wire from the monitor to the negative block in the electrical center. I did not.

I simply used two strands of the existing telephone wire already in place for the Micropulse for each sensor. Each of the 3 ground wires in the telephone wire were attached via butt connectors to the ground at the control head.

Mine has been dead nuts accurate for one season now. I have no reason, barring a water leak, that the grounds nor power feeds will gain resistance.
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Old 11-04-2015, 02:36 PM   #3
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what do you think of using bullet connectors, so that the wiring can be disconnected if the tanks need to be removed?
I suppose I could just put in a 3' long service loop
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Old 11-04-2015, 02:43 PM   #4
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No harm, I suppose, but I found a lot of length in the tank end of the telephone wire. I'm sure each unit is different.
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Old 11-04-2015, 02:51 PM   #5
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Maybe this will help?

http://www.airforums.com/forums/f317...ns-133508.html
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Old 11-04-2015, 03:22 PM   #6
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I elected to run two new #18 wires from the control panel to each tank sender, all connected in parallel. I then tied the senders ground to the control panel ground. I soldered all connections.
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Old 11-04-2015, 03:39 PM   #7
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My plan was to use the original tank probe leads. The original black tank was on the floor, against the back wall of the trailer; the wiring/univolt/battery were all in the back corner, right next to the tank, so the probe wires just come out of the wall there, and (somehow) make their way up to the control panel, which is integrated into the front end cap. New black tank is in the same spot, only below the floor, so it would be no problem to connect to these wires.
The other option is to daisy-chain the tank sensors in the other direction, and use the original fresh tank probe wires to get to the control panel.
(I'm keeping the original fresh tank, which in the 70's, is under the floor/galley).
I think using the fresh-tank wires would be the easiest, although, it probably doesn't matter much.
I'm going to remove the original control panel in the front end-cap, and replace it with a piece of flat stock of some sort, and install the see-level panel there. (since all the wires terminate here...including the pump switch, ammeter, etc).

So anyway, I guess the only question is the bullet connectors, so the tanks can be "un-plugged" if they ever have to be removed.
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Old 11-04-2015, 07:52 PM   #8
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I had a bit of a battle with "DC voltage ripple" that was causing my readout to wildly fluctuate. I was getting battery voltage readings from 7 to 20 volts while on shore power. Not good. But the instrument was stable on battery power alone.

The good See-Level folks helped me diagnose the problem. They mentioned most of the bugs in the instrument can be traced to a bad ground. I ran a dedicated ground wire to no avail. See-Level folks want a very low resistance reading on the ground connection. I had less than 2 ohms.

My problem was traced to the 1999 converter that was generating interference. I installed a new converter and my See-Level problem went away. Just another example of the "slippery slope" of vintage trailer renovations.

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Old 11-05-2015, 04:19 AM   #9
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I'm already planning on a new converter, anyway. Old univolt still works exactly as designed...anyone want it?

don't all jump at once!
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Old 11-05-2015, 07:37 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chuck View Post
So anyway, I guess the only question is the bullet connectors, so the tanks can be "un-plugged" if they ever have to be removed.
The odds of ever needing to remove tanks is very low. Connectors can corrode over time. I recommend solder and shrink wrap. Cut and resolder if ever needed to remove tanks.
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Old 02-03-2016, 09:10 AM   #11
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Thumbs up More Suggestions !

We have a 2010 27FB Flying Cloud. We had the Airstream factory install our SeeLevel. Our black and grey tanks sensors never worked properly ! Upon inspection, I found the black water sensor mounted too close to a steel frame member. I contacted the SeeLevel people, who sent me a new sensor, which I positioned to a better location. That improved the readings, but not greatly. The folks at SeeLevel suggested I check the ground at the module. I did, and found too much resistance between the module and the battery ground, so I reconnected, using the old inverter wiring,(the inverter burned up 2 years ago), which goes directly to the battery ground buss. I also soldered all connections using the old tank sensor wires,(2 per sensor). Readings were still not great. After talking, once again, to the SeeLevel Tech, we decided that the tanks needed to be cleaned. SeeLevel recommends using Happy Camper Extreme Cleaner. I cleaned the black tank, and now get good readings there. The grey tank still needs to be cleaned, but I have high hopes that the sensor will also be working soon. If you have issues with your SeeLevel sensor system, I highly recommend calling SeeLevel Tech support. They are very willing to take the time to help you troubleshoot your problem.
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Old 02-03-2016, 07:17 PM   #12
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I too had a good experience with the SeeLevel tech I called. He lead me through several tests to solve my problem which was "DC voltage ripple" due to an old converter. A new converter solved my problem.

David
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