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07-26-2006, 05:39 PM
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#1
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Ledbehind
2018 16' Sport
Great Falls
, Virginia
Join Date: Jun 2006
Posts: 56
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Potty Mouth, Potty Mind, Totally Confused
Anyone,
I need guidance here . I recently posted a thread about a sticking dump valve on my new '61 Tradewind. Well it now moves, but somewhat reluctantly. and will stop dripping when you close it and give it a couple of taps with a hammer.
I strongly suspect that this approach of dealing with blackwater is far from ideal and will ultimately lead to disaster. What I got, apparently, Is a brass valve / fitting on a fiberglass tank. The elbow that attaches to this fitting is not your typical bayonnet fitting - it has two knobs that fit into this tank fitting. I want & need to be able to use the "facilities".
Is there any way to retrofit or fix this system? The grey water also exits this hole and into a blue-boy - a pain but I can deal with that. I don't need to stress how unsavory a broken blackwater tank or dump valve would be so please, please, please, your collective experience is very much appreciated.
Henry
ps great threads on the incinolet & composting tanks - I got the brochures in relation to another little project - how did they ultimately work in the AS??
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07-26-2006, 05:47 PM
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#2
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418
2007 25' Safari FB SE
1958 22' Flying Cloud
1974 29' Ambassador
Yucca Valley
, California
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: 1963 26' Overlander
Posts: 4,804
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Quote:
Originally Posted by henrydahm
Is there any way to retrofit or fix this system? The grey water also exits this hole and into a blue-boy - a pain but I can deal with that. I don't need to stress how unsavory a broken blackwater tank or dump valve would be so please, please, please, your collective experience is very much appreciated.
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Henry,
One of the fixes would be to remove the black tank, and glass in a new style dump valve plate. Then you can use any modern type dump valve that is commonly available. You will have to come up with a solution for the grey water, but that should be easy, even if you have 2 dump hose connections, one for black and one for grey.
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07-26-2006, 06:29 PM
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#3
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Rivet Master
1956 22' Safari
2015 27' Flying Cloud
Vintage Kin Owner
Conifer/Evergreen
, Colorado
Join Date: Feb 2002
Posts: 12,702
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When you gotta go, you gotta go!
Quote:
Originally Posted by henrydahm
What I got, apparently, Is a brass valve / fitting on a fiberglass tank. The elbow that attaches to this fitting is not your typical bayonnet fitting - it has two knobs that fit into this tank fitting.
<snip>
Is there any way to retrofit or fix this system? The grey water also exits this hole and into a blue-boy - a pain but I can deal with that.
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Does yours look like this? If so, it's the "old style" that can't be easily fitted with new parts, is nearly impossible to find old parts for and would have to be replaced as Uwe stated previously. So far so good, ours still does the trick...
BTW, congratulations on your "new" trailer!
Shari
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07-26-2006, 07:59 PM
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#4
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Ledbehind
2018 16' Sport
Great Falls
, Virginia
Join Date: Jun 2006
Posts: 56
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2 ears
Shari & Uwe, Yeah the thing has those two ears on the elbow - if I had it here I'd send a pic of the gizmo. Disassembling and glass Ewwwwww 2 much until I HAVE to! What is making it so difficult to open and close and seal?? and can I still use this "cloaca" and aviod any drips??
Henry
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07-26-2006, 09:15 PM
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#5
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4 Rivet Member
1961 16' Bambi
Mancos
, Colorado
Join Date: Jan 2006
Posts: 472
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I have a '61 Bambi and experienced the same problem. Solution.... remove screws from housing. Mine broke off. Obviously hadn't move for 40+ years. I believe the problem only occured when I brought the trailer to extremely dry weather. Anyway, after removing the housing a new o-ring must be installed in the current valve. Very evident procedure. Gad I cannot remember the size. Guess is 4". My valve is now held together with mini c-clamps. For how much longer I have no idea. Someday... someday. Sorry I don't have a picture, it was done "pre forum"
I have had no more problems in about 2 years.
Good Luck!
p.s. You will hopefully be able to use screws to keep your valve together.
__________________
AirstreamGypsy
___________
Charter Member FCU • WBCCI 1818 • CP(Courtesy Parking) • Wi-Fi
My Earthship
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07-26-2006, 09:17 PM
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#6
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4 Rivet Member
1961 16' Bambi
Mancos
, Colorado
Join Date: Jan 2006
Posts: 472
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Sorry. What makes it difficult to open and close is probably that the o-ring has dried out and the rubbing from opening and closing has given the o-ring little nubs that create more friction than possible to allow sliding. Aack.... Hope you understand what I am saying.
__________________
AirstreamGypsy
___________
Charter Member FCU • WBCCI 1818 • CP(Courtesy Parking) • Wi-Fi
My Earthship
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07-27-2006, 01:10 AM
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#7
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Rivet Master
1960 24' Tradewind
santa barbara
, California
Join Date: Apr 2006
Posts: 1,352
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i think henrydahm has the early brass valve setup 61 or 62 only ,my 60 is
totally different .His use that aluminum elbow and the frying pan cap .I have one of the caps ,discounted price available ,no elbow ,the one I had went to a 61 tradewind in northern CA ,he had the cap .I think Inland rv had a kit??
to change it over .Taking the valve apart to repair the seal does seem the only option other than retro fitting the new style .Check around maybe it wont be so expensive if you can get another enthusiest airstream person to help you repair / fix it.
Scott
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07-27-2006, 09:37 PM
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#8
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Ledbehind
2018 16' Sport
Great Falls
, Virginia
Join Date: Jun 2006
Posts: 56
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but it doesn't drip
Thanks everyone,
I got my baby back in the driveway and can make a proper survey - Don Mills at Safford had removed part of the bellypan to check it out. Now, with more input I'll be able to assess even better! As Scott & Lilly noted I have the 2-year-only style. I have the elbow but no "fry" pan cover. I just don't want to break the tank when I hammer on the valve
Henry
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